Barnstormer Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Hi, planning to do a cambelt and tensioner bearing change soon. Is there anything else that I can do while front end in bits? Basically easy, cheap and quickish! ATB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 FMOS, about 1/2 hour more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Consider fitting a new crank pulley. Not 'cheap', but cheaper than repairing the damage caused by a failed one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Water pump maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Doom Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I did mine last weekend. Really easy job, longest part was getting the crank bolt off. I changed the water pump at the same time as it had never been changed & the cambelt has to be off to do it (i think). Managed to get a new one for £75 so it seemed like a no brainer. I also fitted a new crank pulley as mine was looking a bit wobbly. Maybe it was me being paranoid, but i had one fall apart on my old NA so i figured it was a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Killer Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 The biggest thing you should consider is a billet timing belt tensioner bracket to replace your old OEM cast piece. We have had countless numbers of people (my personal Supra included) snap theirs while driving or racing. It instantly wrecks your head and can tap your pistons and take them out to, especially if you do not immediately realize the problem and shut it down. Happened to me 3 years ago. Cost me $2,900 with free labor and hook-up pricing from the manufacturers we buy from. This can happen at ANY power level. It seems the OEM cast piece is wearing out on our Supras. A $315 (USD) billet bracket can save you thousands. Ernie Skillen on here had it happen to his BPU Supra, as just one example off the top of my head. Kind regards, Dusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Killer Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 The broken one off my car and a billet one upgrade on the left. http://pics.mvpmotorsports.com/phr/tbtbboth.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest argy911 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 you should also change the auxilary belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I have heard of that. I replaced mine with a new OEM, a few months before you started producing those billet arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Killer Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I have heard of that. I replaced mine with a new OEM, a few months before you started producing those billet arms. A new OEM is certainly better than a 15 year old cast piece, but I still don't trust the cast. We didn't realize the need for this piece until 2005 unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnstormer Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 ok guys many thanks for the info. Will start on getting some more bits then! Have already got a new OEM tensioner and a Gates belt. Assume changing the water pump means draining the cooling system? Need some more Red Stuff as well then..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest argy911 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 also while your there i'd chsange the hydrolic tensioner strut .just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnstormer Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 not crank pulley but are these any good?http://www.toxicspeedshop.com/toyota-supra-jza80-lightweight-pulley-set-1467-p.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The biggest thing you should consider is a billet timing belt tensioner bracket to replace your old OEM cast piece. We have had countless numbers of people (my personal Supra included) snap theirs while driving or racing. It instantly wrecks your head and can tap your pistons and take them out to, especially if you do not immediately realize the problem and shut it down. IIRC, the 2JZ is a non-interference engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 ok guys many thanks for the info. Will start on getting some more bits then! Have already got a new OEM tensioner and a Gates belt. If you are DIY'ing then I'd 'consider' getting a new tensioner wheel bracket and crank pully, but in all honesty i'd leave the water pump, crank seal etc. They both aren't really problem areas and if they do fail they tend to give fair warning......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 IIRC, the 2JZ is a non-interference engine. May just be a US thing where they run large duration very high lift cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 If you are DIY'ing then I'd 'consider' getting a new tensioner wheel bracket and crank pully, but in all honesty i'd leave the water pump, crank seal etc. They both aren't really problem areas and if they do fail they tend to give fair warning......... From personal experience, i would definitely replace the front main oil seal. While the crank pulley is off its not a big job, but one its all back together it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 From personal experience, i would definitely replace the front main oil seal. While the crank pulley is off its not a big job, but one its all back together it is I know what you mean but when the labour 'cost' is just your own time and when a stock seal has no real known cyclical failure/replacement, time/rate (some just seem to go) and the fact that incorrect fitment of the new seal could mean you actually end up creating a leak when there was not one means for me i'd leave it and just get on with removing everything again in the unlikely event it did indeed start leaking soon after.......personal preference really it's a 'can do' not IMO a 'you'd be a fool not too' same as the water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Fair point in that its not a can do and not a need to, and yes i guess a bodge fitment in a DIY sense could cause problems where they werent before. I wish id replaced mine, but i also would like to know why it failed. I guess in time we shall know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Killer Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The 2JZ-GTE is a non-interference motor. It takes large cams (280 and above is around where it starts) to make it interference. Regards, Dusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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