STU_3LTR_TT Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Sorry to see this,especially if it's down to bad workman ship,take plenty of pics of the strip down,and shove them down the guys throat who built it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 This head has been problematic from day 1, the phrase you can't polish a turd comes to my mind. I'll be glad when the block & head are out, I'm thinking a brand new stock block & head with 264's is the way forward, prices on PHR seem pretty reasonable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 This head has been problematic from day 1, the phrase you can't polish a turd comes to my mind. I'll be glad when the block & head are out, I'm thinking a brand new stock block & head with 264's is the way forward, prices on PHR seem pretty reasonable Speak with Dusty mate, he did my brand new fully built head for something like £1600, as i say though i have a good used head should you want one. I paid a bit extra and had him setup for GSC cams with shimless buckets, be ideal for you, simple to install if your doing yaself, sorry if i make no sense, bit drunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Speak with Dusty mate, he did my brand new fully built head for something like £1600, as i say though i have a good used head should you want one. Was that built as in oem, or built as in 264's etc? Supply and fit, or just fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Was that built as in oem, or built as in 264's etc? Supply and fit, or just fit? The £1600 was without cams, i paid extra for that, GSC stage 1 cams was about $750 iirc brand new OEM head Supertech Standard Size Valves, Intake and Exhaust Supertech Valve Guides Supertech Valve Locks Supertech Valve Seals Supertech Titanium Retainers Supertech Single Valve Springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The £1600 was without cams, i paid extra for that, GSC stage 1 cams was about $750 iirc brand new OEM head Supertech Standard Size Valves, Intake and Exhaust Supertech Valve Guides Supertech Valve Locks Supertech Valve Seals Supertech Titanium Retainers Supertech Single Valve Springs Thanks for the info JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Speak with Dusty mate, he did my brand new fully built head for something like £1600, as i say though i have a good used head should you want one. I paid a bit extra and had him setup for GSC cams with shimless buckets, be ideal for you, simple to install if your doing yaself, sorry if i make no sense, bit drunk. Sounds pretty good that, will have to see if the block is any good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathmonkey Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Oh mate, I'm gutted for you. I disappear for a couple of days to find one of my favourites on the forum has hit a snag. Really gutted for you mate. Not looking fantastic, but great attitude, and look forward to you getting it all back up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 I've got a feeling the block will be ok. I think it will still need to be pulled and and cleaned though out though, just incase there's any metal fragments in there. I recon I'm good to come over on Saturday Jay, we can get the head off and see what's going on with the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Oh mate, I'm gutted for you. I disappear for a couple of days to find one of my favourites on the forum has hit a snag. Really gutted for you mate. Not looking fantastic, but great attitude, and look forward to you getting it all back up and running. Cheers Andy, it'll be back, & it'll be better Out of interest guys, if I went with that head setup Jamie posted & a brand new totally stock bottom end (block, rods, pistons etc) what would the weak link be? What are the things you would say "while you were on it would be wise to upgrade x & y". I don't want to turn this into a large scale build, I want a reliable setup, but I'd be a bit gutted if I got essentially a brand new engine to stock specs only to find running a T67 at 1.6 BAR something gives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 I've got a feeling the block will be ok. I think it will still need to be pulled and and cleaned though out though, just incase there's any metal fragments in there. I recon I'm good to come over on Saturday Jay, we can get the head off and see what's going on with the block. Excellent mate, I've been working by myself the last couple of days so it was good to have someone who knew what they were doing there today . The tea-boy sucked though I'll be more prepeared next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 You've taken care of the fuelling/cooling/ecu - get that head with the JUN 256's and ditch the AEM for the Syvecs/Solaris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 You've taken care of the fuelling/cooling/ecu - get that head with the JUN 256's and ditch the AEM for the Syvecs/Solaris! If I get that head I might try the GSC Stage 1's & just sell my 264 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Cheers Andy, it'll be back, & it'll be better Out of interest guys, if I went with that head setup Jamie posted & a brand new totally stock bottom end (block, rods, pistons etc) what would the weak link be? What are the things you would say "while you were on it would be wise to upgrade x & y". I don't want to turn this into a large scale build, I want a reliable setup, but I'd be a bit gutted if I got essentially a brand new engine to stock specs only to find running a T67 at 1.6 BAR something gives Id not go with a new short block, seasond would be better imo, that new short block i bought never lasted 5000 miles on a T67. Id just go with a good used shortblock and replace the rod bolts with ARP or rebuild your shortblock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 I agree with jamie a good second have low milage short block would be the way forwards. Well that is provided there is a problem with the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 When I was lookiong at new short blocks Jay, I read up that it's good practice to strip them down as there has been the odd occation that swarf has been found in them. If the new block has to be stripped and rebuilt, it's not worth the expensive and IMO a used block would be better value for money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 I won't know til the head comes off johnny. I'm going over jays next say to take it off with him. I'm concerned that they may be metal filings in the sump and bores now now due to the cam snapping. But as said the head needs to be off to check it out correctly. When cams snap they are usually a clean break, if the broken ends have ground together whilst running though you may well get some metal debris. Could you feel any metal filings in the oil around the cam? Good luck with it Jay, hope you find the block, etc. are in good shape and it's just a case of getting a new head rebuilt. Might be worth speaking to Chris Wilson, he rebuilt a head for me a few years ago. With CW you'll have the peace of mind that it'll be done correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 When cams snap they are usually a clean break, if the broken ends have ground together whilst running though you may well get some metal debris. Could you feel any metal filings in the oil around the cam? Good luck with it Jay, hope you find the block, etc. are in good shape and it's just a case of getting a new head rebuilt. Might be worth speaking to Chris Wilson, he rebuilt a head for me a few years ago. With CW you'll have the peace of mind that it'll be done correctly. Yeah there was debris on and around the cam. It looked like it had been rubbing together. Both sides of the broken cam was very rough. Don't get me wrong there wasn't massive bits of metal but I definately could feed bits in the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Id not go with a new short block, seasond would be better imo, that new short block i bought never lasted 5000 miles on a T67. Id just go with a good used shortblock and replace the rod bolts with ARP or rebuild your shortblock. I agree with jamie a good second have low milage short block would be the way forwards. Well that is provided there is a problem with the block. When I was lookiong at new short blocks Jay, I read up that it's good practice to strip them down as there has been the odd occation that swarf has been found in them. If the new block has to be stripped and rebuilt, it's not worth the expensive and IMO a used block would be better value for money. Cheers guys, see I would have put money on a new block being the way forward, shows what I know When cams snap they are usually a clean break, if the broken ends have ground together whilst running though you may well get some metal debris. Could you feel any metal filings in the oil around the cam? Good luck with it Jay, hope you find the block, etc. are in good shape and it's just a case of getting a new head rebuilt. Might be worth speaking to Chris Wilson, he rebuilt a head for me a few years ago. With CW you'll have the peace of mind that it'll be done correctly. It looked pretty clean, it pushed the broken half away so there was no "grinding". I never looked for filings TBH, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 sorry to hear this JAY, bloddy garage didnt even repair my front diffuser and screwed up the oil pump, installing the crank seal with the spring missing, lucky i had bolts holding the seal in place, else bang engine.... if you need a hand, i got a spare block with stock CP pistons not installed, you can do the build at my lockup as all tools are there, and then get the engine dropped of at your house ready for the install. i have a long reach engine crane if you need it , makes life so much easyer then the stock units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 sorry to hear this JAY, bloddy garage didnt even repair my front diffuser and screwed up the oil pump, installing the crank seal with the spring missing, lucky i had bolts holding the seal in place, else bang engine.... if you need a hand, i got a spare block with stock CP pistons not installed, you can do the build at my lockup as all tools are there, and then get the engine dropped of at your house ready for the install. i have a long reach engine crane if you need it , makes life so much easyer then the stock units. Cheers Michel, I'm hoping a build won't be necessary, it's either going to be a drop on head, or a full low mile engine in I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 fingers crossed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 who did the work disgraceful really feel for ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The HKS cams are machined from billet cores, they are stiff and hard wearing but like most cams very brittle. If the caps were lose it would have allowed the cam to bend causing it to snap. Sorry Nic, HKS cams for the 2JZ are cast. If caps were left loose they would probably snap, same if the head was warped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Sorry to read this J, hope you manage to keep your head up and you dont find anymore more issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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