David P Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) The rain stopped for a few minutes, so I nipped out and bolted on the TRD strut brace. To clear the N/A manifold I used 3 of the top strut rings as spacers, and then the different thickness washers supplied with it. This gave me clearance of around 3mm between the manifold and brace. I have a U.K. snorkel under the bonnet, so after marking the cut line, took it off. Then it starts raining again. This is when I learned that the bonnet wouldn't close? It was laying hard on the brace with more than an inch left to close? It is now back in it's TuRD box, and I am now wet, cold and grumpy:( Ray has one fitted with no problem. Are there different spec engine mountings? Anybody else experienced or heard of this issue? Edited February 2, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Can't really help but I'd be interested to see the scoop part that's been cut away if that's ok please? I'll have to do the same on my car soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) Mmmm, just worked it out. Installed it with the badge reading forwards. It's on backwards? Will have another go tomorrow Kev, I will post you a snorkel snap when done. Edited February 2, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 But that wouldn't look right with the badge upside down surely? Thanks David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 fitted mine it caused problems too but all sorted now if you get stuck pm me and ill tell you what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 fitted mine it caused problems too but all sorted now if you get stuck pm me and ill tell you what to do. might be worth putting it up on this thead dude, if anyone else has problems and they search for it via the SEARCH button, then it will help fellow members out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) I can live with an Australian TuRD badge, or just peel it off and turn it around. If I had to make them all day, I would probably put a few tickets on upside down for the crack I was in a rush to get the job done before dark, caught me out a treat :) Edited February 2, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 might be worth putting it up on this thead dude, if anyone else has problems and they search for it via the SEARCH button, then it will help fellow members out. yeah i will buddy just said that as im rushing around getting ready for footie training and if i had a pm i will answer when i get back. ill add to the thread later people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I read somewhere else recently that there are different designs for the NA, as the manifold is that much higher up to go over the engine. Is that an NA-specific strut brace? Doesn't seem to be if you need to shim it. Plus the shimming probably means it'll shift around all over the place on the washers, kinda negating its functional use. I remember someone used rubber to achieve the same ends once though, so it could be worse -Ian Edit - I see they aren't just washers, they are big ring things. Prob better than washers. My comments still stand though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I would be more worried about how much thread you have tightened down over the suspension, surely thats not good. You should look at investing in a strut brace that fits the NA, I have a Cusco that bolted straight on with no fuss, I posted some pics a little while back if you search for NA strut brace you may find them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 I understand that TRD only make the one design, which is a direct almost fit on J spec TT's, but needs a snorkel mod for U.K. spec bonnets and some shimming for N/A's. I will put it on the right way around tomorrow, hopefully, I can then reduce and minimise the amount of shims needed to clear the manifold and close the bonnet. Because mine is an N/A with a U.K. bonnet, it will need both mods. I will post a couple of snaps when done. I hope I haven't got one of those sticky up manifolds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Sounds like grief, here is the Cusco fitted to my NA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) that was what i thought the issue would be but with tein super streets there is plenty of thread, you need to use the suspension top mount rings (only 1 each side not 3 mate) as the spacers ( so trd strut sits on that) you then need to put a small piece of wood on top of the inlet manifold and tighten the 3 n/s/f shock absorber nuts and place some weight on the o/s/f to tweak it at the inlet manifold point.. this will give you a better gap above the inlet manifold when bolted down ( much better gap). oh and remove the wood. its not neglecting its function one bit, i took it out after fitting and the handling is far better seems so sturdy on the front end now through corners... and most importantly to check that the strut does not knock on the inlet manifold, and its fine. i had to remove my under bonnet cover as it was nackered and ripped anyway but it did slightly touch the strut when shut , causing it to lift the bonnet up slightly... but you hardly noticed it, so not sure why yours wont even shut?? i hope this helps out a bit, many thanks rob can i just add also, your top suspension nuts dont look too good- you want the thread through the nut more, what suspension setup you got?? Edited February 2, 2010 by Rob_Mitchell (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Sorry to go off topic slighty but does anyone ever notice a difference with a stut brace, i have used 5 different braces on various cars using both steel and alloy bars and i couldnt see a blind bit of difference. I would like one for my NA but there's no way i'm paying £200+ if its going to make sh*t all difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 hi neil as mentioned above i noticed a change feels more sturdy, i think its because the strut brace reduces the body from twisting/ flexing through corners... but to answer your question it feels much much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Sorry to go off topic slighty but does anyone ever notice a difference with a stut brace, i have used 5 different braces on various cars using both steel and alloy bars and i couldnt see a blind bit of difference. I would like one for my NA but there's no way i'm paying £200+ if its going to make sh*t all difference. Only 1 i would go for is the carbing as it bolts to the brake MC and does give a slightly better feel to the brakes. The only way a strut tower bar would make any difference is if its attatched directly to somewhere like the bulkhead. apart from that mate there all just bling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I read somewhere else recently that there are different designs for the NA, as the manifold is that much higher up to go over the engine. Is that an NA-specific strut brace? Doesn't seem to be if you need to shim it. TRD only do the one brace design for the 2JZGTE. Carbing do a 2JZGE specific brace. http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4341/attachmentphpgr9.jpg http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2775/attachment1phpdh1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 apart from that mate there all just bling Cheers Martin, i thought that was the case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 i dont agree with that, they must serve a purpose otherwise no one would fit them and nearly every supra on here has one. i have noticed an improvement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 i dont agree with that, they must serve a purpose otherwise no one would fit them and nearly every supra on here has one. i have noticed an improvement I think its something alot of people get because they think they 'need' it. I'm not saying its wrong,its just i personally cant justify spending £200 on something that to me doesnt feel like its doing anything. Maybe i just need to give it a go though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 The only bar IMO thats strong enough to make a difference is the TRD but even then its very little. Better favoured with thicker anti roll bars. They just arnt strong enough to prevent chassis flex as there just attatched to the top of the suspension. If they were mounted in 4 points i.e top of each turret and directly to the bulk head then it would make a difference as its linked directly to a solid part of the chassis. Think about it, why are ARBs mounted in 4 places instead of 2? If they were mounted to just the suspension they would do cock all but there not, there linked to the suspension and the subframe which is a solid piece which is bolted directly to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 it is very little but definately noticable to me and i agree a bloody lot of money for that little difference but there are other cheaper struts on the market but as said the trd is the best on the market in my opinion prob followed closely by the tein strut brace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 IMHO you would be better off buying TRD big anti roll bars. They would make more of difference than any 'Bling Bar' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 yeah im going to look into it, cheers mate for your input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 the trd is the best on the market in my opinion prob followed closely by the tein strut brace. On what basis, I would personally rate the Carbing as one of the better unit plus it doubles up as a brake stopper too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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