Willson Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I need to replace a part in our shower so I obviously want to stop the water getting to it while I am working on it. The problem is, neither hot or cold have working isolation valves. Actually, I think the cold might, but my main problem is with the hot. The hot pipe comes off the top of the hot water tank, right at the top of the cylinder and goes up throught the loft and down to the bathroom. I was thinking of just turning off the main water supply coming into the house and then turning on the taps and the shower to get the last bit of water from the pipes? Does this drain the whole cylinder? is that necessary? When I switch it back on, does the whole cylinder have to fill up before water comes out the top? Its a power shower which I believe should not have been installed with "up and over" hot pipe, but it wasn't my doing... TIA edit - just to say, its not the pump I am replacing, surprisingly, the shower has worked fine for 6 years but has now developed a drip which according to the manufacturers is a dodgy solenoid valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 What shower is it mate? If its a triton i can help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hiya, it's a Mira unfortunately. Though I've already ordered the part, was only 30 quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozz Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Tip for you - when (if) you drain the hot water, stick some valves on so you don't have to do it again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 If you have trouble fitting it see how much they charge to repair it as they will warranty any work they do but may not work on a unit unless you have the isolation valves for hot and cold etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey001 Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 If you turn the cold off to the house this will still drain the tank, on the cylinder there will be in feed in the top and pipe out near the bottom. Turn the tap off at the botton of the tank and this will issolate your hot. And you can issolate your cold from the mains! You dont really wana sit and drain off all your tank to fill it back up again. Is it a mira sport or similar? Which part has gone? Cheers Davey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 If you have trouble fitting... I have the manual and fortunately it looks like a very easy replacement. ... Is it a mira sport or similar? Which part has gone? Cheers Davey Thanks, its a event xs thermostatic. In the fault table at the back of the manual, it says a dripping head is caused by a faulty solenoid valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_d Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 sounds like a electric shower? If so its just cold water going in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Its a mixer shower with a pump with hot and cold feed. As said above when you empty the tank put some isolation valves in on the hot and cold feed to the shower if you can. Nothing like draining your tanks down, fitting a new part to find it leaks after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 ... put some isolation valves in on the hot and cold feed to the shower if you can. I don't think its within my capabilities to be honest. But we are thinking of have a new bathroom put in this year, so I might hold off and have a plumber put them in at that time. Its just whether I can take the chinese water torture! I hate dripping taps etc lol Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Can you use a plumber's rubber bung on a tank outlet to isloate it? You could do that to a hot water tank in the loft, but I don't know enough about plumbing circuits to say whether it would work in your case. IMO the bung's only feasible if the job will only take you a few minutes at most, and you've got someone else who can help you. If the bung lets go, you'll need someone to put that bung back in PDQ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks all, but I think I am just gonna get a plumber in to fit the valves. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozz Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I don't think its within my capabilities to be honest. But we are thinking of have a new bathroom put in this year, so I might hold off and have a plumber put them in at that time. Its just whether I can take the chinese water torture! I hate dripping taps etc lol Thanks Its difficult to go wrong really, very simple job. There are so many types of fitting now, solderless, compression, its a piece of cake. Just don't blame me if you flood your house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willson Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Its difficult to go wrong really... Just don't blame me if you flood your house! exactly. thats why I am gonna get someone in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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