Purity14 Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Dont shoot me down, i have searched!! I have taken the main bolt out of the centre of the crank pulley. The crank pulley stays stuck to the engine, so i put some bolts (m8 1,25) and tightened them up evenly expecting them to protrude through the other side of the pulley and in turn push the pulley away from the engine. The reason i am posting is that the two bolt method didnt work, one of the bolts has just snapped, so i removed the other one before it suffered the same fate. How can i get the crank pulley off, anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 I believe you need a claw type pulley removal tool. I've been told that you put the claws on the front metal lip, and not on the rear rubber section Don't use any heat on the pulley, as you'll find it falls to bits while driving along at a later date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Id love that to work, but the outer ring has failed, so there would be nothing for it to grip onto...? I have another pulley to go on, and a new bolt and a new belt. Very fustrating : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Then get a bar type removal tool and use the bolt holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Yeah, i tried that(sort of, see post one), and broke one of the bolts(in the bolt holes), so that option isnt really avaliable anymore unforunately. Does this mean im screwed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronttuk Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 if uve tried both types of pully removers i would try to heat up the pully so it wil expand slightly then with a coper hammer tap the pully while trying to leaver it away once it starts to move keep tapping and levering it should come off but dont go to heavey light taps and patience to move it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Yeah, i tried that(sort of, see post one), and broke one of the bolts(in the bolt holes), so that option isnt really avaliable anymore unforunately. Does this mean im screwed? I think you screwed right through the bolt hole did you not? This is the wrong way to do it. The correct way is to have a bar going across the 2 bolts and then use a third to prise it off evenly. I'm thinking that the way you have done it has caused the bolt to shear, that along with the type of bolt you used. I wouldn't say you are screwed but you have given yourself a fair bit more work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 (edited) Grim, what a ball ache. The annoying thing is, is that the outer part of the pulley doesnt exist so i cant "pull" on anything. Now i cant pull it using the bolt holes because i have a bolt stuck in it (snapped off) Does anyone know what the its made out of? - Im thinking of drilling a hole through it (sideways), and out the other side big enough for a sturdy rod of some kind to fit through and then weld a bolt to middle of it and use a bolt in the middle to extract it as previously mentioned? (with heat also) Im thinking thats my only option... Edited January 30, 2010 by Purity14 spelling (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 If you can somehow get a metal plate held over the centre bolt hole, perhaps by having a flat plate bent 90 degrees each end and then 90 degrees again to give a little tab to brace against the back of the pulley, then you can put the bolt back in, not very tight but a fair way and then pop this home made bracket over the diameter of the pulley and then from above/below you can use a 22mm open end or ratchet spanner to undo the crank bolt and it will butt up to and push on the plate now covering its exit and this force will be transferred to the rear of the pulley which should creep off as you do each spanner turn............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I have had 'games' with this job too. Because you do not need to re-use your pulley, heat, and more heat and, the 'best' available, even pull and tap, should be more than sufficient. In the unlikely event that this and all else fails, the OEM pulley is made of aluminium, and a get out of jail card, is to go in with a disc cutter, no need to go all the way, a tap on a cold chisel will finish the job cleanly. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 The pulley tool previously posted will still do the trick. I don't see why it is being discounted? All you do is put it over the top of the pulley and wind up the center one to pull it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 The pulley tool previously posted will still do the trick. I don't see why it is being discounted? All you do is put it over the top of the pulley and wind up the center one to pull it off. If i placed it over the top of the pulley and wind up the centre, surely it needs something to grab hold of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 I have had 'games' with this job too. Because you do not need to re-use your pulley, heat, and more heat and, the 'best' available, even pull and tap, should be more than sufficient. In the unlikely event that this and all else fails, the OEM pulley is made of aluminium, and a get out of jail card, is to go in with a disc cutter, no need to go all the way, a tap on a cold chisel will finish the job cleanly. Have fun Yes exactly, i think you have understood what i meant Im going to re-evalutate in the morning and do some more head-scratching i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 If i placed it over the top of the pulley and wind up the centre, surely it needs something to grab hold of? Not by the looks of it.... To me it looks as if you wind out the center, put the tool over the top of the pulley so that the shoe shape is behind it and then screw in the center. Not really sure how else to explain it. The black part of the device goes behind the pulley. You can see that the center is cut out to allow it to slip over the crank and in behind the pulley wheel itself. It doesn't grab any lips or anything. You screw the center bit in against the shaft and it pulls the wheel off. No? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Im not really buying that idea much, ive just looked outside and you cannot put anything around "the other" side of the inner pulley. Dont get me wrong, it might work if the outer part still existed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Use heat then mate, the only reason I'd ever suggest not using it, is if you want to re-use the pulley. Yours is obviously knackered though so get a blow torch on that bastard and burn him off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 If you trailer it over to me I will get it off, or no charge and trailer fees refunded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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