Racelogic trouble

[Dash Rendar]

I've just applied the new map to the car. Hurrah. (I lowered the rev limits a couple of hundred in both cases, as I figured the dbb will spool up slightly faster. Hopefully I won't run into this 'bog down' scenario. Is that where it kind of chokes?)

 

So it's button, then clutch, then full throttle? Then pray.

 

If I read the manual right, pressing the button adjusts the rev limit to the new one specified in the map, and then regulates the throttle so you only have to worry about the clutch pedal.

 

At what point is the launch control inactivated? I.e. when does it cease to regulate the rev limit? Does it disengage once you reach a certain speed or something? Can you disengage it manually, e.g. by pressing the button again? As far as I can tell, there's no way to tell if you've pressed the button, or pressed it more than once...

 

I suppose I should just play with it, but I find knowing in advance a bit safer! Sorry for all the questions.

 

P.S. I've uploaded my current map.

 

Thanks.

dazWithLC_070210.zip

[Terminator]

Sorry I did not pay much attention to your screen shots. You have smoothing set to 1, this basically sets up a filter for spurious signals, so it is more than likely that it will filter out the initial slip signals causing the wheels to slip more before the cut tables get triggered. It is a bit like setting up a much higher slip, but not so predictable. This setting really must be set to 0 as a rule in MKIVSupra's as the abs system signals are very clean. With smoothing set to 0 and slip set to wet. you will get 5% slip in a straight line and 0% slip in turns that trigger turning aspects of the dat. In essence in a large open car park with a bit of lock you should be able to bury your foot and get 0 slip once the wheels are rotating at more than 14kph amnd rpm is higher than 2250.

 

Drop me a pm and I'll send you a dat.

 

Alter smoothing to 0 and try the car again. if that does not correct the problem, then it could be as Matt suggests, you could be the unlucky ones who's wheel allocations have been scrambled. Have you a screen shot of your original file from after it was installed, so you can check allocations?

Edited February 7, 2010 by Terminator (see edit history)

[Terminator]

Just seen your latest post. You will know when launch is activated as the rpm will be clamped at what ever you set it, RL will resume normal setting after your pre-set time.

[Terminator]

P.S. The rear wheels have plenty of tread and they're Eagle F1s, so they should be okay.

 

Next time at a meet, I'll have to try and find someone who's familiar with this kind of power and RLTC, to confirm it's working as it's supposed to.

 

 

Correctly configured, power is irrelevant.

[Dash Rendar]

Just seen your latest post. You will know when launch is activated as the rpm will be clamped at what ever you set it, RL will resume normal setting after your pre-set time.

 

Presumably, clamped to those revs only when your foot is on the gas? As in... it should not raise the revs just by pushing the button?

 

So, if my start delay is set to 2s, does that mean I only have 2s to put my foot on the gas after pressing the button?

 

I've been comparing the original maps from Matt. The original map that was loaded has smoothing set to 0, and wheel diameters set to 643 and 636 (reference and driven, respectively).

 

There were some issues with spurious misfires on cruising, so Matt revisited the map, and it was after this visit that the smoothing was set to 1. However, these spurious signals were related to engine revs, and I had a lot of strange behaviour going on with the car back then. (Generally AFR related.) I'm hoping all these issues are resolved, so perhaps the spurious signals may be gone as well. So I'll definitely try setting it back to 0 and see what happens.

 

But also, the wheel diameters were changed to 653 and 650 on Matt's second map. I'm not sure how these are precisely measured as it's hard to gauge the diameter of a tyre, given the curvature of the wall. Using a tape measure, I can only say it's around 650mm.

 

I'm not sure why the rear wheel would be a smaller diameter than the front. They're both 18-inch wheels with the same 35R18 tyres. Unless... Do you measure them vertically, where the weight of the car is a factor? I measured them horizontally, as I figured this would be give me a truer figure.

[Dash Rendar]

Wow! That launch control is AWESOME!

 

We just timed a 0-80mph launch in the wet at 6 seconds! My missus was timing on a stopwatch... So, not exactly a GPS accurate timing, but nevermind. I don't know what the ballpark figure should be for a car like this, but I was pleased with that as a first attempt.

 

I've also turned the smoothing off, and the RLTC is definitely doing a much better job now. The car is much more stable, stays straight, and continues to put down power, whereas before, there seemed to be too much slippage.

 

And so far, no spurious misfires.

 

Thanks everyone for the help.

[Terminator]

(Did not see you last post before posting my reply, I'll look at the dat anyway)

 

No need to measure just use the calculator. Given the slip seen by RL is the difference between the rotation rates of the reference and driven wheels, having the tire sizes spot on is not crucial, it is obviously better to have them spot on, but slight differences won't count for much. Given your 653mm tires the circumference is appropriately 2050 mm, at 5% slip the rear wheel has to slip for a total of 102mm in one wheel revolution, it is hard to actually feel that amount of slip. So having wheel sizes slightly out will make very little difference to the total amount of slip during one wheel revolution. RL will apply cut during the revolution concerned. With a 530mm diameter tire, at any given moment, the amount of actual slip, at the driven wheel is 0.28mm for every 5.6mm travelled by the reference wheels. Normally you cant feel that level of slip, you only know is is happening due to RL cutting fuel to a cylinder or two. In normal operation you may get three of four cylinders cut and the slip goes away and you carry on driving possibly unaware RL has done anything. I defy any driving god to have an arse that is that sensitive to 5% slip at the rear wheels.

 

Thanks for sending the dat, I'll take a look. Looking at the data in the boxes on your screen shots some of the numbers don't look right, it is possible your dat has been scrambled. The most important thing, which I can't check is your wheel allocations, it might be worth resetting the minimum speed setting to 5kph and spinning the wheels by hand to check for correct channel allocations. If they are not correct nothing in RL works as it should.

Edited February 7, 2010 by Terminator (see edit history)

[Dash Rendar]

I've checked all the way back to the original maps from Matt, and the channel allocations have always been 4, 3, 2, 1, reading in the order FL, FR, RL, RR.

 

Is that what you're talking about?

[Terminator]

I cant open the dat something to do with hotel firewall.

[jevansio]

I think Phil means you need to be sure that channel 4 is FL, rather than jacking the car up I just lit the back wheels up to determine which are the rear front channels, then went round a roundabout to identify left & right (right will be slower than left)

 

Mine were setup 1 FR, 2 RR, 3 FL, 4 RL when using the normal wiring diagrams

Edited February 7, 2010 by jevansio (see edit history)

[Dash Rendar]

Are you using the Graph/Chart while doing this stuff, to determine which wheels are doing what?

[jevansio]

Are you using the Graph/Chart while doing this stuff, to determine which wheels are doing what?

Yip, log to file then you can open it when you pull up next

[Dash Rendar]

Thanks, I'll give that a go... probably will be next weekend now.

 

I've just been reading about your woes. Sorry to hear about that.

[Dash Rendar]

For anyone else wanting to interface with the RLTC software on a laptop without a serial port, then I'd recommend getting one of these PCMCIA cards...

 

http://www.sourcingmap.com/rs232-pcmcia-serial-9pin-expresscard-express-p-18085.html?currency=GBP

 

or ...

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PCMCIA-to-RS-232-RS232-Serial-DB9-CardBus-Adaptor-Card_W0QQitemZ280442085011QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PCMCIACards?hash=item414ba69e93.

 

These definitely work, as it's the same one I've got. The USB->serial cables generally don't...

[jevansio]

Thanks, I'll give that a go... probably will be next weekend now.

 

I've just been reading about your woes. Sorry to hear about that.

Sweet, you only need to spin the rear wheels for a second to get a reading, you could even take it on a patch of grass if there's any near to make it easier.

 

[Terminator]

If you use the graph option and run the "real time" you can check wheel allocations, with the car jacked up, rather than splatter it with crap.

[Terminator]

For anyone else wanting to interface with the RLTC software on a laptop without a serial port, then I'd recommend getting one of these PCMCIA cards...

 

http://www.sourcingmap.com/rs232-pcmcia-serial-9pin-expresscard-express-p-18085.html?currency=GBP

 

or ...

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PCMCIA-to-RS-232-RS232-Serial-DB9-CardBus-Adaptor-Card_W0QQitemZ280442085011QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PCMCIACards?hash=item414ba69e93.

 

These definitely work, as it's the same one I've got. The USB->serial cables generally don't...

 

Good advice and a great link, I tried the USB serial option and it did not work. May be I can now get an up to date lap top;).

[imi]

Received the serial cardbus today, great piece of kit, works 1st time....thanks Dash.

 

i've posted my DAT file to Phil, waiting for his feedback...

[Dash Rendar]

That's great news.

[imi]

got Phil to put another DAT file for me and must say the results are impressive, the system really does work wonders in putting down all that power with amazing panache.

 

many thanks Phil.

[Dash Rendar]

Quick question about the adjuster settings...

 

My adjuster in the cabin has the following settings:

 

* Wet

* Dry

* 10%

* 15%

* 20%

* Off

 

But in the RLTC manual, it describes the adjuster as having the following settings:

 

* Wet - For severe slippery conditions e.g ice, torrential rain

* 5% - Damp conditions

* 10% - Dry conditions

* 15% - Sport

* 20% - Sport

* OFF - Traction control Turned Off, the car will function as standard.

 

So, if the manual thinks 10% is for dry, but my adjuster has a 'Dry' setting where the manual thinks there's a 5% setting, does that mean that 'Dry' on my car is actually the 5% setting?

 

And consequently, should I be using the 10% setting in the dry instead? And should I be setting my adjuster to 'Dry' when I'm in damp conditions, given the manual's recommended setting for 'damp conditions' (i.e. 5%)?

[imi]

I have the same settings as you.

 

I tend to use DRY settings for WET and either 15% for Dry or switch it completely off.

 

If the rain is really heavy then I take no chances and switch it to WET.

[Dash Rendar]

Thanks.

[Terminator]

Quick question about the adjuster settings...

 

My adjuster in the cabin has the following settings:

 

* Wet

* Dry

* 10%

* 15%

* 20%

* Off

 

But in the RLTC manual, it describes the adjuster as having the following settings:

 

* Wet - For severe slippery conditions e.g ice, torrential rain

* 5% - Damp conditions

* 10% - Dry conditions

* 15% - Sport

* 20% - Sport

* OFF - Traction control Turned Off, the car will function as standard.

 

 

It is misleading, the actual factory figures are:-

 

* Wet = 0% when turning is activated. = 5% when straight

* Dry = 5% when turning is activated. = 10% when straight

* 10% = 10% when turning is activated. = 15% when straight

* 15% = 15% when turning is activated. = 20% when straight

* 20% = 20% when turning is activated. = 25% when straight

* Off

 

This assumes that the original factory slip and straight line override have not be altered.

[Dash Rendar]

Thanks for clearing that up.