max21 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Hello, please has anyone experienced this sort of issue on the RZ-TT? My car had been stationary through out the cold/snow spell and prior to that, it was all ok. Now, it won't start, the starter solenoid/motor does not turn, the engine managment lights do not come on, the 120A alternator fuse is gapped, the 20A radiator fuse is gapped as well as the AMS-30A fuse. Please has anyone a clue on how I can restore happiness to my Supra, especially, how can I get the broken 120A alternator fuse out and where I can source a replacement? By the way, I had previously re-charged the battery and used a booster, but no joy what-so-ever, so any positive suggestion would be appreciated, is there anyone close to High Wycombe, bucks on this forum? Thanks for reading,................... [ANGRY][/ANGRY] /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_sad.gif /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_oops.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Have you tried a New BATTERY?? Reason i said this i had same problem, turned out to be a duff battery(cell) in it, got my self down to halfords and got a new one, job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 Have you tried a New BATTERY?? Reason i said this i had same problem, turned out to be a duff battery(cell) in it, got my self down to halfords and got a new one, job done The battery is virtualy new, I replaced it last Autumn. But at lease a duff battery should allow the managemnet lights to come on,............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 The battery is virtualy new, I replaced it last Autumn. But at lease a duff battery should allow the managemnet lights to come on,............... Cold weather played havoc with mine dude, i had NO lights on, and no click from starter motor. Try a new battery, rules one option out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 Cold weather played havoc with mine dude, i had NO lights on, and no click from starter motor. Try a new battery, rules one option out... Sure, I'll do that. Please do you have any idea on how I could replace the 120A alternator fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colmcork Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Hi there i am a newbie here. I have just replaced my 120 amp alternator fuse. You need to undo the 3 bolts holding in the entire fusebox. Lift it up, turn it over and you will see 2 bolts holding in alternator fuse. Undo these, whip out old fuse and then replace with new one. I will dig out the part number for you in a tick. Had to get mine from Toyota. Hope this is some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colmcork Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Right, the part number for 120 amp fuse is; 90982-08271. Over here it costs 10.67 euro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Is it an auto? Is it in park?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomgeer Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 The one 120amp charge fuse is available from any toyota dealer, it should still start without it providing the battery is okay, It'll just drain the life out of the battery. Has your car been jump started recently by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 No the car was only jump started after the recharged battery failed to make any difference. It appears there is some sort of short circuit somewhere in the starting system as even without the 120 amp fuse, when the battery terminals are connected, the management lights don't come on and it keeps blowing the 20Amp Radiator fuse [ANGRY][/ANGRY] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 Right, the part number for 120 amp fuse is; 90982-08271. Over here it costs 10.67 euro. Thanks Mate,I really appreciate your help. Regards, H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 Is it an auto? Is it in park?? Sorry, this is a Six Speed Manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomgeer Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the 120a fuse is there to protect other components from power surges often caused by jump starting, if your unlucky it can also fry the igniter and worse still the ecu. I would get a multimeter and make sure your battery is giving you a good reading, around 12-13v. Also make sure the battery terminals are connected nice and tight. Can you rule out your alarm/immobiliser too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 sounds like someone may have jumped it the wrong way around...? ive had a few calls from customers who have done the same thing with the same fuses blown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 Update, I don't think it is a jump start or battery issue as today I put new fuses (120 Fuse link and 30amp AMS fuse) and a new battery and immediately the terminals were connected, there was a little crackle and pop went both fuses. So Maybe there is a Short somewhere. Please does anyone know what the AMS fuse does or who on this forum can help diagnose the problem? Thanks, now I'll go a buy shares in a fuse making company Regards, H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 I know this is a silly question but it is often the silly ones that lead to the correct answers. The battery isn't in the wrong way round is it? Are you positive you are connecting the right terminals to the right cables? The supra has a back to front battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Sure, the battery is certainly the right way around and the terminals are idiot proof via a size discrimination, i.e. the Positive terminal is larger than the Negative Terminal. Thanks. Regards, H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomgeer Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Can you borrow or buy a second hand ecu to try and see if it still pops fuses when you turn the ignition on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 It's not going to be the ECU, that's way down the chain. The circuit path is Battery -> 120A Alt fuse, with a branch off to 30A AM2. So not the most difficult circuit path to follow. Disconnect the big strap-ring connection on the alternator and try again - I think there is a regulator in them that can go wrong and cause problems like this. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 It's not going to be the ECU, that's way down the chain. The circuit path is Battery -> 120A Alt fuse, with a branch off to 30A AM2. So not the most difficult circuit path to follow. Disconnect the big strap-ring connection on the alternator and try again - I think there is a regulator in them that can go wrong and cause problems like this. -Ian Thanks Ian, forgive my ignorance, what does the AM2 30amp fuse do and also what does the "big strap-ring" connection look like? Thanks. H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks Ian, forgive my ignorance, what does the AM2 30amp fuse do and AM2 leads to the ignition switch. also what does the "big strap-ring" connection look like? A big strap. With a ring on the end Look at the alternator, it'll be quite apparent, there are two things connected to it, one's a normal 3-wire plug, the other is a thick cable that has the ring end hooked over a stud with a nut on top holding it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max21 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 AM2 leads to the ignition switch. A big strap. With a ring on the end Look at the alternator, it'll be quite apparent, there are two things connected to it, one's a normal 3-wire plug, the other is a thick cable that has the ring end hooked over a stud with a nut on top holding it in place. Thanks Mate, I see some light,................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Found a pic. I've arrowed in yellow where the strap attaches. Should be fairly reachable. It's probably a good idea not to let it touch any metal or bodywork or anything -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopgunTT Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 sounds like someone may have jumped it the wrong way around...? ive had a few calls from customers who have done the same thing with the same fuses blown. When you say jumped it the wrong way round, Do you mean put the leads on the wrong way? Ie negative onto plus? Would this cause fuses to blow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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