Homer Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I'm not sure what you're referring to here. 1.4bar on stock jspec turbos is obviously bad news at any time of the year, and is something I need to rectify. However I don't see that causing my car to end up in a scrap yard (it would be bad for my wallet though ). Maybe not your car, but your pistons head and valves will be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Maybe not your car, but your pistons head and valves will be But only in the Winter? Why would my pistons/head/valves end up as scrap if a turbo did expire anyhow, due to a rogue turbo blade making its way through the engine or another reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbourner Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 But only in the Winter? Why would my pistons/head/valves end up as scrap if a turbo did expire anyhow, due to a rogue turbo blade making its way through the engine or another reason? If you drive like that in winter you'll crash (was implied). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 yes because when the blades break bit can get everywhere.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 If you drive like that in winter you'll crash (was implied). The implication was purposefully ignored, due to no mention of my driving habits being made in this thread, only the maximum boost I reached at a single point in my journey. Thanks for the explanation though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Why would my pistons/head/valves end up as scrap if a turbo did expire anyhow, due to a rogue turbo blade making its way through the engine or another reason? My engine digested a turbo the result wasn't pretty. I was lucky that the head could be rebuilt, the rest was scrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) But only in the Winter? Why would my pistons/head/valves end up as scrap if a turbo did expire anyhow, due to a rogue turbo blade making its way through the engine or another reason? Homer isn't refering to the turbo going. It's the fact that the car will be running very lean at those sorts of boost. I learnt the hard way about turbo'd cars and boost spike and it was a costly lesson at that. Don't drive you car hard again until you can restrict the boost better. Edited January 19, 2010 by Matt H (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 But only in the Winter? Why would my pistons/head/valves end up as scrap if a turbo did expire anyhow, due to a rogue turbo blade making its way through the engine or another reason? You're running too much boost for the fueling. I've seen those levels of boost on my old car and as the 2nd turbo spools it runs horribly lean once past 1.3 bar with 440cc injectors, even with raised fuel pressure. As you don't have an AFR gauge you can't see this happening so should not be pushing the car at all without restriction. It's not even so much the peak boost, it's the speed of the spool thats going to kill it. The stock map just won't supply enough fuel to compensate. THe turbo's are at greater risk as well, but the engine will have shat itself long before that happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) But only in the Winter? Why would my pistons/head/valves end up as scrap if a turbo did expire anyhow, due to a rogue turbo blade making its way through the engine or another reason? Two reasons, 1) Turbos disintegrating and going through the engine and 2) it will be detonating badly due to their being too much boost to fuel which will prob cause damage first than the blades going. The fuel system cant supply enough fuel on a JSpec setup. Get a RR in there before you take it on boost again edit to say Homer got in there first with a better explination Edited January 19, 2010 by T2 MSW (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 You're running too much boost for the fueling. I've seen those levels of boost on my old car and as the 2nd turbo spools it runs horribly lean once past 1.3 bar with 440cc injectors, even with raised fuel pressure. Got it, thanks Darryl/Matt/Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Got it, thanks Darryl/Matt/Mike. You dont want to end up with a melted piston or a large hole in the side of the block like Martin's car had Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 You dont want to end up with a large hole in the side of the block like Martin's car had Well no.. but it'd make a fun thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Got it, thanks Darryl/Matt/Mike. Here's some food for thought: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Ouch, that your Engine Matt?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Ouch, that your Engine Matt?? It was! And those two last photos were taken by Greg at Turbofit.... Just went from bad to worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 It was! And those two last photos were taken by Greg at Turbofit.... Just went from bad to worse! bloody hell mate. least thats in the past eh!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The 1st cat is very restrictive (the most restrictive of the 2), just removing the 2nd cat will hardly effect the boost. NIc, When you say the first cat do you mean the one closest to the rear of the car or the on closest to the engine (mine has had the one nearest the engine removed)...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 NIc, When you say the first cat do you mean the one closest to the rear of the car or the on closest to the engine (mine has had the one nearest the engine removed)...? First CAT as in the one within the downpipe (closest to the engine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jihwaan Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 thats what I thought, I have had that removed and Im still only pulling .9 psi at full boost spike (drops to 8/8.5psi )- so I am guessing this means I either have a buggered second cat, a restrictor ring or a very restrictive second cat?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 That's not how it works, BC's don't exactly work on boost, they work on a set actuator adjustment level. When it gets colder this can vary. It's the same reason why you get a variation in peak boost on a car with a restrictior ring when the weather gets colder or warmer. It was explained very well by Ian C (and others) in a thread last year in the tech section. Any idea what to search for to find it? I'm very curious about this. The pressure sensing should remain the same regardless of the temperature. In fact it would be an increase in temperature that would cause more pressure. Colder air means denser air or less volume, not more pressure. If a valve is set to open at 1bar, it will open at 1bar regardless of what temperature it is at. If it is warmer there will be less density of air, if it is cooler there will be more density of air.... thats it though. The only thing I can think of is the components don't react well to colder temperatures. Everyone seems to be disagreeing with me or, in most cases, missing my point and giving random responses. I don't mind people saying I'm wrong but at least read and understand what I am saying and tell me WHY I am wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) Sorry, the way I read it was like the boost controller controls an actuator that comes into play and stops the boost from increasing any more. To answer your question, you could be boosting to 1.15, add a BC to get it to 1.2 (for no real reason! ), then in cold weather it might go up to 1.3 or something. The boost controller does control the actuator (it just doesn't generate positive boost, it has to be there first) You didn't answer my question though Edited January 19, 2010 by Scott (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbourner Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 The boost controller does control the actuator (it just doesn't generate positive boost, it has to be there first) You didn't answer my question though Hey I never said I knew anything! OK, maybe I didn't answer your question, erm...... TBH I thought it was damp air that created more boost and it was just coincidence that it usually happened when it was cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 ok i think we need an expert to explain whats going on when i see 1.6 as a high reading on the boost controller is this just spiking for split second or are the turbos running that boost.i never knew a blown turbo could destroy your engine. maybe i should get 1.4 high setting lowered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Don't drive you car hard again until you can restrict the boost better. you have been told now alex! dont ever do it again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 thats what I thought, I have had that removed and Im still only pulling .9 psi at full boost spike (drops to 8/8.5psi )- so I am guessing this means I either have a buggered second cat, a restrictor ring or a very restrictive second cat?? Thats interesting as i only have the 2nd cat removed and i hit 0.9-1.0 bar all the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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