China Man Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Hi, My snooker hall at the back of the garden is nearly completed. It is made with solid concrete blocks laying flat @ single skin. Its a single story with a flat roof, to be used as a play house. I am thinking of using polyestene boards at 50mm on the outside, wire mesh on top then render with lime added. on the inside I am really tight with space, is this any good? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/30-sq-M-SINGLE-ALUMINIUM-FOIL-BUBBLE-LOFT-INSULATION_W0QQitemZ300383916789QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item45f046d2f5 I am thinking of using it behind plaster board and behind the celling. I am hoping the external insulation will allow me to have a bigger thermal mass inside and therefore easier to keep warm. Anyone can give me some idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Thinsulex is the best stuff if you are tight for space, is it a flat roof? do it as a warm deck would be my advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozz Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 I think Raven is an insulation type dude, send him a PM. I bought a log cabin to use as a snooker room and gym, just about got my smith machine, sofa and full size table in there. It is a bit cold though. Cabin is 4.5 metres by 8.5 metres I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 If you have no other choice then use Thinsulex No way to use a celotex? I wish they would make a foil that would pass building regs in lofts, would make my life so much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 I wish they would make a foil that would pass building regs in lofts, would make my life so much better. It wont be long, as with thinsulex it will be very expensive though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 It wont be long, as with thinsulex it will be very expensive though. Indeed, however the storage would save me a bomb. Not to mention a clean install. Saying that they are talking about putting the fibre glass levels up top 300mm. 100 mm inbetween and 200mm over the top. Where in kent you from china? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
China Man Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 Thanks for the input, because I am on a tight budget I don't think the above products will fit my requirement. My built is 7.5mx7mx2.5m which is a lot of space to keep warm. Labour cost 7.5k and material cost 8k so not a lot of room for top of the range stuff. Interesting point Jamie, I did a quick search on warm deck. Does it mean making the roof vapour proof all around and no air vent behind celling boards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Interesting point Jamie, I did a quick search on warm deck. Does it mean making the roof vapour proof all around and no air vent behind celling boards? Build the flat roof as norm (joist and ply) then use some EL3000 celotex ontop of that and lay your felt/permaroof/fibreglass weather proof layer on top as normal, id go with a 100mm celotex, vent the roof as norm via fascia or soffit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Thanks for the input, because I am on a tight budget I don't think the above products will fit my requirement. My built is 7.5mx7mx2.5m which is a lot of space to keep warm. Labour cost 7.5k and material cost 8k so not a lot of room for top of the range stuff. Interesting point Jamie, I did a quick search on warm deck. Does it mean making the roof vapour proof all around and no air vent behind celling boards? Righty, no way to baton out the inside at all? do you have roof beems? Ie are you going to plaster board leaving a gap between? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 My advice is dont cut corners, it will be an expensive lesson if you have to take the roof off because its rotten in five years due to poor insulation and ventilation. condensation buildup is a killer to wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
China Man Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 My architech note says Cellings below to be finished with 12.5mm thick taper edged board wit metalized polyester backing as vapour control layer. Proper ventilation should be maintained behind. Because it is a Class E outbuilding so insullation was not in the specification, I don't want to add insulation which will cause condensation on the wood. The timber joists are 175mmx50mm so I have 175mm between the the ply and celling board for insulation? sorry for all the newbie question, steep learning curve for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 My architech note says Cellings below to be finished with 12.5mm thick taper edged board wit metalized polyester backing as vapour control layer. Proper ventilation should be maintained behind. Because it is a Class E outbuilding so insullation was not in the specification, I don't want to add insulation which will cause condensation on the wood. The timber joists are 175mmx50mm so I have 175mm between the the ply and celling board for insulation? sorry for all the newbie question, steep learning curve for me. Im not sure what would happen if you where to stick 150mm of your run of the mill fibre glass in that space then board over the top. That would be by far the cheapest way out of the roof however from what your saying the architech has said that space needs to be left clear for ventilation? I have pumped blown fibre into flat roof spaces before with no account of issues. However i wouldnt go against anything your architech has said. Maybe worth giving him a bell to see what he would advise as he knows the whole building, layout, and materials used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvteye Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 When I built my house there wasn't a room issue but in terms of the celotex, I used kingspan as I found a company in Hereford which sold seconds. The majority came where the foil had finished halfway then restarted so there was a flap of additional foil, others which had some minor damage had been patched. Despite my 30% discount at the local yard these came in delivered at 1/3rd of the price. (£600 instead of £1800) I can't recall how much I got but when I got home there were 3 stacks in my drive of 8 x 4 foot boards with each stack around 8 foot tall. You do the maths So... if you do go down that road, shop around and you'll save a fortune. That goes for you builders as well, but then again, you are probably getting 90% discount anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
China Man Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 I did lots of shopping around for materials so far. Off the shelves uPVC windows and doors, ring around local supplier on engineering bricks and concrete blocks etc. 1 tonne bag of sands cost from 23 pounds to 45 pounds just by ringing different supplier and buy in bulk. Most resent purchase is a RSJ of 6 meter with size specified by architect and engineering calc total £140 inc delivery, my builder choice of supplier wanted £1200. I had my kitchen extension built by polish builders and now the play house by Chinese builders, cheapest I can find in labour. Lucky both team have very good standard but it was a gamble which so far paid off as both project so far bang on budget. I am a drug dealer by trade so building trade is new for me, please be patient with my questions. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 snooker hall http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=203202 Let me know if you are interested. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 My architech note says However i wouldnt go against anything your architech has said. Architect. *tuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
China Man Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 I am looking for a full size snooker table, lots around as a lot of snooker club in london closing down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozz Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I am looking for a full size snooker table, lots around as a lot of snooker club in london closing down. I found mine on ebay, amazing quality, the guy drove from up north, about 4-5 hours to get to me and spent several hours making sure it was perfect. Love it. I'll see if I can find his details. Found him, its snookersports on ebay. Really sound guy, tables are cheap but it all in the construction and setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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