JamieP Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) Im looking at having Lee build up my spare engine now so i have a engine ready to drop in should the worse happen, anyone got any views good or bad on this spec list before i place the order? I have thought about going 3.4L but i dont think the extra cost will be worth it with my setup, the only reason im going with a built engine at all is so i can rev it a little higher, maybe 7800rpm? Ive also ordered a .96 ar for my billet turbo for some more power. Head Whifbitz Stage 4 full race cylinder head. Comes with Supertech stock or 1mm oversize valves, Supertech double valve springs, Supertech retainers, Ferrea bronze valve guides, fully ported, skimmed and shimmed ready to install. EDIT.. i went with the brand new PHR/supertech head in the end with GSC stage 1 cams. Block ARP Head Studs ARP Main Studs ACL race bearings BC Connecting Rods Set of J&E pistons. EDIT... i went with CP pistons in the end. Cheers Jamie. Edited January 11, 2010 by JamieP (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I must be a wimp , I feel like mine wants to shift before 7200 (just gauging in the drop off in torque), do you think the extra rpms will be of any benefit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 I must be a wimp , I feel like mine wants to shift before 7200 (just gauging in the drop off in torque), do you think the extra rpms will be of any benefit? Wait till you get that billet turbo on;) mine craves for revs now mate, its still making power at the rev limit and each gear is all over far to quick. http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/?action=view¤t=dyno043.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Now that's what I wanted to hear The 4088R, although pulled strong to around 7k, always felt there was little point holing past 7.2k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Same spec as mine Jamie, apart from Carillo Rods and CP Pistons. Now xmas is over i can get some bits welded up next week and finally get it running. IIRC Tony was saying with the lighter internals the limit could be around 8100rpms with no additional stress compared to stock. But will probably keep it around 7800rpms for a bit of safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I would have thought JUN pistons and rods would have been a better/stronger choice I have been amazed with the power and use your stock set up has taken, just shows its best to leave a good engine stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Any reason for the GSC cams bud? Which HKS are they comparable to? Would have thought you'd go HKS being a proven unit and well TBH the name (I know you're a brand whore too ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Any reason for the GSC cams bud? Which HKS are they comparable to? Would have thought you'd go HKS being a proven unit and well TBH the name (I know you're a brand whore too ) I was just going to ask the same thing What sort of lift would you go for Jamie and I was also thinking you would have gone with HKS or Titan!? Although the HKS are very expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Same spec as mine Jamie, apart from Carillo Rods and CP Pistons. Now xmas is over i can get some bits welded up next week and finally get it running. IIRC Tony was saying with the lighter internals the limit could be around 8100rpms with no additional stress compared to stock. But will probably keep it around 7800rpms for a bit of safety. Looking forward to seeing how yours performs on the dyno, loverly spec you have. I would have thought JUN pistons and rods would have been a better/stronger choice I have been amazed with the power and use your stock set up has taken, just shows its best to leave a good engine stock Its has been good. Any reason for the GSC cams bud? Which HKS are they comparable to? Would have thought you'd go HKS being a proven unit and well TBH the name (I know you're a brand whore too ) Not really, i read about them a lot on supraforum and they are well rated so thought id give them a try, they sound like just what i want, bit of blurb from MVP on them. Stage 1: The S1 cams are designed for those running an upgraded single turbo larger than 57mm. These cams will not have bottom end losses over stock cams; nothing but gains and will promote an extremly flat torque curve. Gains of 40-70rwhp (depending on turbo) have been seen by simply bolting the S1 cams in and reshimming. Designed for a rev range of 3500-8000 RPM's, these cams should be used with a single valve spring upgrade over stock. 450-800rwhp camshaft set with an idle slightly rougher than stock. Intake: 269 Duration 9.90mm Peak Lift, 108 degree Centerline. Exhaust 269 Duration 9.90mm Peak Lift, 116 degree Centerline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Sweet, look forward to seeig the results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Just noticed the GSC cams recommend a single valve spring, ill talk to dusty about that, might go with the stage 2 cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Just noticed the GSC cams recommend a single valve spring, ill talk to dusty about that, might go with the stage 2 cams. If you are likely to sell the Jun 256's I would be interested in buying them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon5698 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Go on Jamie up it to a 3.4, and see what your billet turbo will really do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 If you are likely to sell the Jun 256's I would be interested in buying them. No, when the present engine comes out i will rebuild that one aswell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Good idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) Im looking at having Lee build up my spare engine now so i have a engine ready to drop in should the worse happen, anyone got any views good or bad on this spec list before i place the order? I have thought about going 3.4L but i dont think the extra cost will be worth it with my setup, the only reason im going with a built engine at all is so i can rev it a little higher, maybe 7800rpm? Ive also ordered a .96 ar for my billet turbo for some more power. Head Whifbitz Stage 4 full race cylinder head. Comes with Supertech stock or 1mm oversize valves, Supertech double valve springs, Supertech retainers, Ferrea bronze valve guides, fully ported, skimmed and shimmed ready to install. GSC stage 1 Cams Block ARP Head Studs ARP Main Studs BC Connecting Rods Set of J&E pistons JE Total Seal piston Rings Cheers Jamie. If you're just looking to increase the RPM a little then what you've listed there should be fine. If you want to rev high and unlock available HP that way, personally I would go with Carillo rods and CP pistons. The reason being that IIRC the CP's are lighter than the JE's (which becomes more and more important as you increase the revs) and the Carillo's have been proven time and time again. I've been going through the figures trying to calculate a max RPM for mine which has that set-up, and so far from my calcs in theory it should be able to rev right up to 9500 RPM. I'm not sure how the ancillaries will start to behave when revving that high though. With the correct sized turbo it should make for a hell of an interesting ride! Same spec as mine Jamie, apart from Carillo Rods and CP Pistons. Now xmas is over i can get some bits welded up next week and finally get it running. IIRC Tony was saying with the lighter internals the limit could be around 8100rpms with no additional stress compared to stock. But will probably keep it around 7800rpms for a bit of safety. Definitely, with the CP pistons, even if you using stock rods you would be good for 8100 as there is no increase in load that the rod / rod bolts would see. With the Carillo's and decent bolts (like the carr's that are supplied) the max RPM that the bottom end can take is pretty much determined by the loading on the rod-bolt. However it's still important to assemble it correctly in order to take advantage of bolt strength. Edited January 3, 2010 by TLicense (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 Thanks Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 Right ive ordered the bottom end bits now, went with cp pistons in the end but stayed with BC rods. ARP Head Studs ARP Main Studs BC Connecting Rods CP pistons Just waiting on some info back from dusty about cams/head before i order anything for the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 As TLicense has mentioned, Carillos have been highly recommended for lightweight strength in a high-revving big power 2J on the US forums. As far as I am aware, the BC rods haven't been disparaged in any decent head-to-head comparison with Carillos though - just some vague "they're not as strong". However, this is usually in a 900+ whp car - and unless you're going for much more power, I doubt that it would be a concern (seeing as stock rods frequently last at your current levels and BC should be stronger). I'm interested in what you come up with for the head.. plan to post a before and after flow comparison? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) Head im wondering do i need the extra flow of porting, thinking about getting one of the brand new phr heads from dusty and getting him to shim and install the GSC cams? Powerhouse Racing Standard Performance Head for 1993-98 Supra TT Part # PHR StandP Head This PHR Standard Performance head allows you to add aftermarket cams and change the internals without spending an arm and a leg! PHR and SuperTech has partnered to create a Standard size Intake and Exhaust Valve that will allow it to fit into the head without any machine work done. This will compensate the fitment issues that have been an issue in the past for all Supra head builds with Ferrea brand valves. The problem with Ferrea is they would NEVER fit the stock head like the stock Toyota Valves would, thus the head had to be bored out for the valves to seat flush to make perfect clearance. Ferrea has had quality control issues with the Valves and have fallen in quality. With this Supertech Valvetrain it makes a quick and easy removal of the stock Valvetrain and then replaced with the Supertech Standard Size Valves to go in its place without the huge expense of a valve job! This allows you to build your head for the performance needs to suit the larger stroke or larger cams that you have been wanting to use! The price here includes a brand new OEM head! The price also includes: Supertech Standard Size Valves, Intake and Exhaust Supertech Valve Guides Supertech Valve Locks Supertech Valve Seals Supertech Titanium Retainers Supertech Single Valve Springs Full Assembly To shim and install cams will cost extra, please contact us. Your Price $2,600.00= £1627.98 Edited January 7, 2010 by JamieP (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 That's a good price Jamie. I paid £1200 odd for a new head from Mr T over here. I don't know what the price of the Supertech valve train is, but if it's anything like the Ferrea kit, then that's a steal. As for porting, I've not yet seen any empirical evidence of what increase in performance you'll get from it on a 2JZ. Unless the guy doing it cocks it up, it will definitely be an improvement in mass flow, which is always good at higher RPM's, but for £ per BHP gain I'm still to be convinced. If you're going all out, and not too worried about budget, then go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Thanks for the advice Tony, it does seem a good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Jamie, I've just had some Mahle 87mm pistons made for the 2JZ-GTE engine, one of the best pistons you can buy and used by top race teams including F1. I have these on the shelf as well so no waiting from the US. £560 + VAT. Got a set of used Carrillo rods as well.... Rest of the spec looks good. Dont forget to weld on the crank sprocket. Could also do with an ATi damper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) Thanks Paul but ive ordered all the parts for the block now. (Ive got an ATI damper on now) Edited January 7, 2010 by JamieP (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Thanks Paul but ive ordered all the parts for the block now. No probs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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