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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Locking wheel nut and brake problem


Steviekid

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My girlfriend has an rx8 and around two months ago the right rear brake started making a hell of a noise and a score started to appear in the disc. When I investigated I found the outside pad (on the floating side) had no pad material left at all but the inside pad next to the piston was completely fine. I used a pair of mole grips and a universal wind in tool to retract the piston (which wasn't that difficult), put some copper grease on the sliding pins and changed the pads.

 

This week however, it started doing the same thing so I assumed the pad was knackered again. In retrospect I probably didn't investigate the cause enough last time. I went to remove the wheel but the locking wheel nut socket sheared when I tried to undo it. We took the car to the local Mazda dealer to have the stud removed but after about 20 minutes the guy came out and said the stud has been getting so hot it's practically welded itself to the alloy and shattered when he tried to remove it (I personally don't buy this and think he just made a hash of trying to chisel it off). There's now so little of the nut left he says that the only way to get the wheel off is to drill holes in the alloy itself (wrecking it) then changing the wheel stud. Does this sound right?? I've had a look at it and there's so little nut left I would have though you could have burred it out with a dremel or similar, got the wheel off intact then changed the stud?

 

He also says the caliper needs changing due to the amount of heat there's been despite not being able to look at it yet. If the piston was sticking would the pad on the inside not wear first rather than the sliding side? Would a refurb and proper greasing of the sliding pins not be ok? I recently refurbed all the calipers of the supra so I'm happy to do it myself.

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