hp006 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 I have gone bpu and the afr starts at about 10.7 cold and get up to 12.3 ish when warm. Could the fuel pump be an issue here? I got this one off ebay and seems to have the same lph as the others? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-Celica-ST-Starlet-255-LPH-fuel-pump-race_W0QQitemZ250532401340QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a54e510bc It a uk tt with aem boost controller, map ecu, straight throu exhaust and the air fillter just behind the bumper. Just trying to figure out what causing it to run so low Any help thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Do you mean AFR when under boost????? or driving off boost??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 This is still, dont want to drive in case i reck the engine being the wrong fuelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 If that's off boost I would stop driving the car. I thought it should be around 14.7 give or take a little!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n boost Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Well u have a mappable ecu, so i'd suggest getting the map looked at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) Yeah,i fitted the ecu so dont really want to drive it that far to get it mapped?? I did download the map from there website but not as tuned to bpu as i would have thought. Was thinking maybe put the afm back in to see if the auto learn mode will make it better?? Edited December 2, 2009 by hp006 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 You need to get it properly mapped mate, no downloadable map is going to work correctly on 'your' car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Im not sure how they run stock/bpu but 12.3 warm idle is rich. Id get it on boost and see what the afr's are like but if you are not confident or worried then get it to somebody that does know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Do you still have the stock ecu? What afr's does it run with that as that would be a simple way of determining if it was definatly your ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 Think i will disconnect and see what happens. Put the afm in and see what readings i should get. Last thing i want to do is go through a second engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Yeah,i fitted the ecu so dont really want to drive it that far to get it mapped?? I did download the map from there website but not as tuned to bpu as i would have thought. Was thinking maybe put the afm back in to see if the auto learn mode will make it better?? "Was thinking maybe put the afm back in to see if the auto learn mode will make it better" This part worries me, can you please elaborate? I didn't know the MAP piggyback was capable of eliminating/emulating an AFM Downloaded base maps are nearly always very rich, which is OK as long as they are not too rich, i would be inclined to remove it until you can get somebody who know what there doing to map it. Also you don't state what wideband you have fitted? are you sure its calibrated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) The map ecu has the capability of one or the other. afm or MAP It can take on a learn mode and then you can adapt it from there if you wish to loose the maf I have an aem afr and the map cal software both measuring the afr saying the same thing so can imagine there both wrong. Just nervous of driving with the ecu plumbed in and it running rich and something going wrong An IAT cable supplied which acts as the new air intake temp. Was thinking if i remove this and let the afm do its job again then the fuelling should be better?? Edited December 2, 2009 by hp006 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 The map ecu has the capability of one or the other. afm or MAP It can take on a learn mode and then you can adapt it from there if you wish to loose the maf I have an aem afr and the map cal software both measuring the afr saying the same thing so can imagine there both wrong. Just nervous of driving with the ecu plumbed in and it running rich and something going wrong An IAT cable supplied which acts as the new air intake temp. Was thinking if i remove this and let the afm do its job again then the fuelling should be better?? Unless you have a very expensive wideband O2 sensor the ecu will not 'learn' fast enough to map itself any sense, you still have not explained the afr readings to us, what is it on and off boost etc??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 off boost at idle is 12 when the engine is warm, i have not tried driving the car yet as i dont want to reck it. If people think its safe to do so then i will take it for a quick spin and see what the readings are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 The map ecu has the capability of one or the other. afm or MAP It can take on a learn mode and then you can adapt it from there if you wish to loose the maf I have an aem afr and the map cal software both measuring the afr saying the same thing so can imagine there both wrong. Just nervous of driving with the ecu plumbed in and it running rich and something going wrong An IAT cable supplied which acts as the new air intake temp. Was thinking if i remove this and let the afm do its job again then the fuelling should be better?? off boost at idle is 12 when the engine is warm, i have not tried driving the car yet as i dont want to reck it. If people think its safe to do so then i will take it for a quick spin and see what the readings are "I have an aem afr and the map cal software both measuring the afr saying the same thing so can imagine there both wrong." The map cal will only display the reading that is being inputted buy the AEM AFR so it will read the same, so you could still be seeing a wrong value if the AEM has not been calibrated correctly, however i am not familiar with the AEM. What i will say is that i'm guessing that the std lambda sensor is still in place and the STD ECU is reading this and adjusting closed loop accordingly, so if the AEM is correct (and i'm not saying it is yet!) are you sure the STD lambda is not faulty (fault codes?) as this will make everything run richer by default. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 (edited) I just put the original afm back in and got the same afr, so think your theory its what the ecu is seeing. How do i check if the lamda sensor is working correctly on the car? There are no fault codes coming up. On the car warming up it read 12.1. and on boost 12.2. Dont know how long its been like this as only put the gauges on the other day?? Next day i can play thou is mon Edited December 3, 2009 by hp006 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I would stop playing as you clearly don't have a clue (no offence) what you're doing. I wouldn't even drive it at present. It sounds like the static fuel pressure is cranked up but with no real spec information you're going to struggle to do any diagnosis over the internet. There are knowledgeable local members that could possibly help identify the problem but tbh you'd be better off getting the car on a flatbed and sending it to a Modified/Turbo/Japanese/Supra specialist. FenSport maybe your closest or there is AFR and Whifbitz on here who are in the London area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp006 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 like the sound of fensport, anyone know if they any good and reasonable?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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