devan Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi, Just wandering if anybody has had the MIL light come on during hard acceleration, its just started doing it tonight, after no mods to my car or anything, just random. Its an n/a manual 1994. I will check the codes when i get chance, but for now i just wanted to know if anybody has any experience with this. Also noticed that the small light with the (!) in it also comes on, as well as the MIL, is this normal? Btw the light goes off straight after my acceleration. Cheers, Ash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Check your brake fluid level, it is very sensitive and needs to be full, I would start there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 handbrake leaver raising slightly, mine dose it under heavy peddleing. try holding it down as you accelarate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest suprastar380bhp Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 (edited) Your ECU has detected a fault if the mil (engine management light) AND the red (!) mark comes on If it goes off straight away its ok but needs attention But if it flashes (like an indicator) there is a serious problem Edited November 26, 2009 by suprastar380bhp (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devan Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 tooquicktostop: ok ill check my brake fluid levels asap, dr jekyll: the first thing i did was check the handbrake was down, and the door shut, so that eliminates that, cheers anyway. suprastar: Yeah the light goes off straight away, but like i said ill check for a fault code asap too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Sounds daft but have you had your clocks out recently. if all the pins dont get a good connection or 1 is bend on the back of the clocks your MIL light will come on under hard acceletation. Did with mine. I had a spare set of clocks so after puting them in sorted it. I know a few pals with supras who had this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devan Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Yeah i have had my clocks out recently, well, it was about 1 week ago. I was soldering blue LED's into the indicator/hazard bulb holders on the dial cluster. But i must of done about 250 miles since then, with enough hard acceleration to notice the light coming on. Ill investigate the clocks if the fault code reading doesnt work. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 My moneys on the clocks mate. When you slow down does the light go off after a while or when you turn the engine off and back on again. I dont think you'll have any fault codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devan Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 The light goes off as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator pedal, and then doesnt come on anymore, until i give it some again. The easiest thing i can do is check faults, and then ill start with the clocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devan Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Right, i have a fault code 12. Im assuming the table of fault codes on this forum are the same for the n.a and tt? Been searching and the last time somebody had this was 2005. Apparently its the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor signal not being received by the ECU for 2 or more seconds. Also noticed the red light coming on more and more now, even under normal acceleration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Did you check your brake fluid level yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devan Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Yeah brake fluid level is fine. Bure surely if i get the fault code 12, it cant be the brake fluid anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 I dont think that code will have anything to do with the MIL light. if the car had a crank sensor fault it wouldnt start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevins Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Your ECU has detected a fault if the mil (engine management light) AND the red (!) mark comes on If it goes off straight away its ok but needs attention But if it flashes (like an indicator) there is a serious problem management light normally flashes to indicate what the trouble code is this happens when earthing a pin in the diagnostic plug for quick reference of a fault, if it stays on it has a code stored due to fault not rectifying itself, never come across a management light flashing unless its an immobilizer fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest suprastar380bhp Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 emission problem? oxygen sensor, loose petrol cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Sorry I've got nothing to add, but saw 380bhp had answered so wondered what gems could be found within, loose petrol cap, I wasn't disappointed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest suprastar380bhp Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 (edited) Sorry I've got nothing to add, but saw 380bhp had answered so wondered what gems could be found within, loose petrol cap, I wasn't disappointed vapour leak? and my other two ideas emission problem? oxygen sensor Edited November 28, 2009 by suprastar380bhp (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 O2 sensor fault would throw up a fault code 21 (Devan are you sure you got the numbers the right way round?) In the mean time I'd suggest resetting the ECU and taking it for a drive to get it to record the code again, just to verify the fault code. Fault code 12 doesn't work out since it's the crank sensor and as mentioned the car wouldn't start with a fault 12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest suprastar380bhp Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 O2 sensor fault would throw up a fault code 21 (Devan are you sure you got the numbers the right way round?) Its like house on sky 1 lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 vapour leak? and my other two ideas emission problem? oxygen sensor And the ECU knows this because? a) It's got a petrol cap loosness sensor b) It's got a petrol tank vapour release sensor c) None of the above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Just looking though the service manual, NA's don't have a fault code 21. Fault 12 is "G, NE signal curcuit No1 fault". The distributor in the engine control system contains 3 pickup coils (G1, G2 and NE). The G1 and G2 signals inform the ECU of the standard crankshaft angle. The NE signals inform the ECU of the crankshaft angle and engine spped. Fault 12 trouble area: - open of short in NE, G circuit. - Distributor - Open or short in STA circuit - ECU Fault 12 lists the following checkpoints: 1) Check resistance of each pickup coils in the distributor If faulty: Replace distributor If okay: 2) Check for open or short in harness and connector between ECU and distributor If faulty: Repair or replace harness or connector If okay: 3) Check air gap If faulty: Replace distributor If okay: 4) Check and replace ECU (!!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Still think its ya clocks that are selling it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Still think its ya clocks that are selling it off. Could be, which is why I suggest to clear the fault codes and try again. If the ECU still reports a fault the clocks can be ruled out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devan Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Just looking though the service manual, NA's don't have a fault code 21. Fault 12 is "G, NE signal curcuit No1 fault". The distributor in the engine control system contains 3 pickup coils (G1, G2 and NE). The G1 and G2 signals inform the ECU of the standard crankshaft angle. The NE signals inform the ECU of the crankshaft angle and engine spped. Fault 12 trouble area: - open of short in NE, G circuit. - Distributor - Open or short in STA circuit - ECU Fault 12 lists the following checkpoints: 1) Check resistance of each pickup coils in the distributor If faulty: Replace distributor If okay: 2) Check for open or short in harness and connector between ECU and distributor If faulty: Repair or replace harness or connector If okay: 3) Check air gap If faulty: Replace distributor If okay: 4) Check and replace ECU (!!!) So it could still be a fault code 12. My car drives perfectly, and i get a "blip" pause "blip" "blip" when i run the fault code check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan_Jones Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 I'm also getting similar problem to this. No engine management light, just the red (!) on the dials. I too took the clocks out a while back. I'm going to check it out. Is there any plug in particular I should look at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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