Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I removed my charcoal canister and cant quite understand these instructions as its on the wrong side of the car http://mkiv.com/tmp/no_charcoal_canister/ I understand that there are two pipes that I connect together and one I cap off. But what pipes do they translate to when the pipework is different on RHD cars? Do I cap the hard pipe that runs along the plenum and join the two next to the bulkhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 is this right? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=37245&d=1149530243 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 This was done on my car before i got it. Badly, as you'd expect, I have to keep opening a window every so often as car starts to get fumey so something is very wrong. Being a single and RHD this mkiv.com article isnt as clear as I would like it to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 No that article isnt very clear yet every thread I have looked at keeps refering to it As far as gather from trying to understant the pipework, you should cap the pipe running next to the plenum (which seems to be connected to the pressure tank and therefore must be under postive pressure to purge the canisiter) and join the two at the bulkhead (one being from the fuel tank and the other goes to the intake side of the TT setup so should be under negitive pressure to pull the fumes out the fuel tank) but Im not 100% sure and that would mean that the pic in post 2 is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraturbochris Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 what does it do by removing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 Gives me room for a nice shiney oil catch can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 I drive a single without the canister and can't tolerate the smell of fuel in the car anymore: seriously thinking of putting the canister back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 I have read so far that if the pipework is bypassed in the right way it suckes the fumes back into the intake and away they go. If the pipe from the fuel tank is just left to vent to atmosphere and more than likely in the engine bay then you would get a smell of petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_TT Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 No that article isnt very clear yet every thread I have looked at keeps refering to it As far as gather from trying to understant the pipework, you should cap the pipe running next to the plenum (which seems to be connected to the pressure tank and therefore must be under postive pressure to purge the canisiter) and join the two at the bulkhead (one being from the fuel tank and the other goes to the intake side of the TT setup so should be under negitive pressure to pull the fumes out the fuel tank) but Im not 100% sure and that would mean that the pic in post 2 is wrong. Yeah you are right. You block off the one next to the plenum and join the other two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 thank you Its not a very big job at all but there is also no clear instructions or a pic of how it should look afterwards to go off which makes it a bit of a pain, but never mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 So this is how it should be done then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_mcevoy Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 whoo that mine , and yes I think I worked it out ok although i have tidied up the hoses since that picture. I've never had a fuel smell in my car and it doesnt have any vacuum issues in the tank. So this is how it should be done then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 You can buy small filters from Demon tweeks that should stop the smell of petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 how do you change that oil filter without ending up with 700ml of oil all over the engine bay when you remove it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 how do you remove on an NA? seen as its slightly different to the TT's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 You can buy small filters from Demon tweeks that should stop the smell of petrol. Hi buddy, can you point us to a link to those. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve spedd Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Bumping this thread, how do i remove the canister on an NA? and where can we obtain the small filter that Dude suggested? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 how do you change that oil filter without ending up with 700ml of oil all over the engine bay when you remove it??? MY thoughts exactly, I have mine located at the bottom of the LHS chassis leg angled rearwards beside fuel filters, so my changes could not be easier or cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_mcevoy Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 With a lot of Skill... but really it not as much as a problem as it looks, once the oil is warm you give it change to drain most of it back to the engine so when you unscrew it there may be a small dribble but I generally have a lot of paper towels just under the filter to catch them. I'd much rather have that than struggle with the original position. MY thoughts exactly, I have mine located at the bottom of the LHS chassis leg angled rearwards beside fuel filters, so my changes could not be easier or cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 You can buy small filters from Demon tweeks that should stop the smell of petrol. these the kind of filters you had in mind? http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=K/N62-1000 http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/K_N62.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Just to confirm is the setup in post 11 correct or the one in post 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 (edited) I have looked into the charcoal canister removal mod, and it appears that no one has thought the job through properly! Much of this information can be found by scrolling down to DI 75 in the Workshop Manual PDF in link. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/search.php?searchid=5339033 The Supra fuel tank and pump are designed to operate at a positive pressure of 2psi. The fuel filler cap, is a 2psi relief valve, maintaining pressure on charcoal filter up to 2psi and gently venting excess. Without the pressure drain gurgling through the charcoal filter, the cap has a little more relieving to do. 3 pipes on charcoal canister, listed below with direction of flow. 1 goes to induction vacuum. 1 comes from fuel tank. 1 goes to drain. Remove vacuum pipe from inlet manifold and cap it off. Pipe to fuel tank can be capped, or removed completely and blanked off on tank. Drainpipe can be left open, or removed completely. Simples ! A tidier job and minor weight reduction is made by removing pipes and blanking at source. (An even simpler explanation is; remove it and blank off the pipes.) ANY other plumbing arrangement is a Supra Old Wives Tale and WILL cause 'issues'. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ # # Supra Old Wives Tale :baa: # :tumble:================== :tumble:============= ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ BUSTED Edited January 14, 2016 by David P :rlol: (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 the 1 you cap off is the 1 that goes to the hard pipe which runs along the bulk head. is this right? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=37245&d=1149530243 dont think thats right? i blocked off the one that goes to the plenum also, then bent the other hard pipe down to the ground. that pic looks asif its sucking the fumes back into the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I have looked into the charcoal canister removal mod, and it appears that no one has thought the job through properly! The Supra fuel tank and pump are designed to operate at a positive pressure of 2-psi. The fuel filler cap, is also a 2-psi pressure relief valve. 3 pipes on charcoal canister, listed below with direction of flow. 1 comes from fuel tank. 1 goes to induction vacuum. 1 goes to drain. Just cap the end of pipes connecting to fuel tank and inlet manifold. Drainpipe can be left open, or removed completely. Simples ! If anyone is not capable of looking to see which is the drainpipe, just cap off all three. A tidier job and minor weight reduction can be made if the pipes are removed and capped at source. ANY other plumbing arrangement, WILL cause 'issues'. The plumbing looks different on N/A and T.T. engines, but serve the same purpose. Have done this to my N/A with no issues. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ # # Supra 'old wives tale' # :tumble:==================== :tumble:=============== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ BUSTED That surely is a record for the most about of smiley's used in one post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 ok, so these are instructions of how to remove a functional part of the car to replace it with a useless oil catch tank......am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.