sitting for a year. HELP.

[thenee]

My car has been sat on the drive for over a year. It starts and there is no smoke from the dip stick or oil filler.

but it's smoking bad from the exhaust!! (Black ish)

It starts hunting after bout 5mins but i think this is the ECU trying to stop the over fueling.

I've changed the two cats, exhaust and 02 sensors from Keron

(thanks Keron)

i've put new plugs in and cleaned the rotor arm & Dizzy cap.

 

I've put bout £20 quids worth of fuel in (Tescos 99 Ron)

So my question is should i drop the fuel incase there was old fuel still in? If so whats the best way? is there any other thing i may have missed?

 

i want to put her in for a MOT but it wont pass the emissions.

 

any help would be great thanks!

[miko_supra]

What spec is the car? Have you tried swapping the ecu? I have a TT one if you want to give it a try.

 

I had a bad over fueling issue on my last car and it turned out to be a bad ground on the Boost cut controller.

[pistonbroke]

If he's changed the rotor arm, it must be an NA.

[Chris Wilson]

Have you taken it for good run?

[miko_supra]

If he's changed the rotor arm, it must be an NA.

 

I should really pay more attention to what I'm reading

[thenee]

the car is a N/A auto jap import.

 

i've only cleaned the rotor and dizzy so i've ordered new ones!

 

i ran the car down the M53 to the work shop. bout 15 miles.

the car has been in the shop for a week and i've started it a few times and now it's runnig very rough!

 

i'll fit the new parts add some more fuel and redex and see what happens. if it's still no better i'll call a moblie auto tuner.

 

oh yer there is no engine light coming on when running so it shouldn't be anything to bad. I hope!

[adnanshah247]

water in the exhaust? dirty old fuel?

[thenee]

i've changed the exhaust for a 3" one with a middle and back boxs

and got the two cats and o2's off keron.

 

so i'm thinkin off fuel.

[creative]

oh yer there is no engine light coming on when running so it shouldn't be anything to bad. I hope!

 

 

you sure it works? very common not to.

 

is there any water or oil in the plug wells? could cause a missfire?

[trinitom]

are you sure the o2's are not foked? may work a try to clean them and see if he gets better.

if they are used of course.

[AlanM]

And change the fuel if it is the old fuel that is in there

[Whitesupraboy2]

Change the fuel....a yr old....christ poor car!

 

I'd drain the fuel put some new stuff in.Pulll EFI fuse.

 

run it (will be little rough) coz of stuff in pipes and hope it clears up pretty soon after.

[thenee]

engine light comes on when i turn the key and go's off when engine starts.

 

i don't know if theres any oil or water in the plug wells as it was dark when i changed them. so will look now its in the work shop.

 

i was going to drain the petrol and start again with a new filter.

 

that was my first question whats the best way to do this?

Thanks for your help so far.

[thenee]

Keron told me the o2's and cats came off a car that was running fine.

[AndyT]

I start my car on 4 month old fuel every 4 months. It has never failed yet. Car is 50k. None of the above is choice. I think, maybe we're getting distracted.

If i had records for absolutely everything then perhaps we could get diagnostic. I basically put it down to no mods. If

I mod the car then the people who did the work are the people i talk too. If that's sh+te then loads of people here can help.

[AndyT]

Keron told me the o2's and cats came off a car that was running fine.

 

No one can guarantee this. Keron has to go with the history the car's had.

He will, however do his utmost best to see you all right. Obviously.

[thenee]

But if the car was running fine before he broke it.

They are not going to break in the post...... Not the way Keron wraps anyway!

[thenee]

dose anybody Know if NGK BKR5EIX-11 spark plugs are the right ones for the car?

 

they were the old ones i took out but i put the same back in.

[GreaseMonkey]

Hope this is some use to you?.

The Spark Plugs it shows in my manual are: PK16R11 for ND (Nippon Denso) or BKR5EP11 for NGK.

(maybe irrelevant or superseded now ?,since publication of manual, may be an answer floating around the forum on which spark plugs best to use?).

The Gaps for them are 1.1mm (0.043 in.) NEW / 1.3mm (0.051 in.) Used/max gap.

 

Just a thought…

The faults described , I thought I check in the 2JZ-GE manual. Here’s a list of possible causes under “Rough Idle” (I thought best fit the decribed symptoms?) in the order the manual recommends tackling in.

 

I thought could shed some light on the issue?(or maybe confuse you with my rambling on, lol!).

 

1) Switch condition signal circuit (DTC 51)

* A/C SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT

* THROTTLE POSITION CIRCUIT (IDL SIGNAL)

* ACCELERATOR PEDAL & OR CABLE

* ECU

 

2) ISC valve/ circuit.

* CHECK OPERATION FOR ISC VALVE - NG replace ISC valve.

* CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTORS BETWEEN EFI MAIN RELAY RELAY ISC VALVE & ECU.

 

3) Vacuum Sensor Circuit.

* OPEN OR SHORT IN VACUUM SENSOR CIRCUIT.

* VACUUM SENSOR

* ECU

 

4) Injector circuit.

* Wiring/ Connectors/ fuses etc.

 

5) Variable Resistor Circuit (Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw sensor)

 

6) Ignition signal Circuit

* Wiring Harness / Connectors

 

7) Compression.

 

8) Fuel Pump

 

9) Igniton Coil.

 

10) Distributor

 

11) Spark Plugs

 

12) Back up Power Source Circuit.

*EFI No.1 FUSE

*WIRE HARNESS/ CONNECTORS

*ECU

[JODY T]

Its been sat up yeah

 

have you opened the distributor to check for moisture? Get a bit of wetndry etc and clean off all the contacts in the cap and the rotor arm..

 

You could try and see if you can identify which cylinder its running rough on by starting the engine and pulling off one of the leads at a time and see if it makes any difference to the engine.. If you find one that does you could swap the leads with another cylinder and see if the problem goes with the lead or stays on that cylinder..

 

Check all your plugs, give em a clean..

 

Put a load of fuel into the tank to dilute the bad fuel, or drain the old stuff and fit a new filter.. Wats the air filter like? is it clean?

 

wouldnt have thought the new O2 sensors would have the same problems as the old ones and the exhaust is clear yes?

 

Just a few thoughts

[thenee]

Its been sat up yeah

 

have you opened the distributor to check for moisture? Get a bit of wetndry etc and clean off all the contacts in the cap and the rotor arm..

 

You could try and see if you can identify which cylinder its running rough on by starting the engine and pulling off one of the leads at a time and see if it makes any difference to the engine.. If you find one that does you could swap the leads with another cylinder and see if the problem goes with the lead or stays on that cylinder..

 

Check all your plugs, give em a clean..

 

Put a load of fuel into the tank to dilute the bad fuel, or drain the old stuff and fit a new filter.. Wats the air filter like? is it clean?

 

wouldnt have thought the new O2 sensors would have the same problems as the old ones and the exhaust is clear yes?

 

Just a few thoughts

 

i've cleaned the dizzy and rotor but orderd new ones. as i keep asking i want to drop the fuel and start again with fresh and new filter but don't know the best way to do so.

 

it has new air filter and will try the HT thing.

 

if i had low compression in a cylinder would i get back pres out of the dip stick or filler cap? cause it isn't.

 

the car ran fine to the work shop just over fueling (the smoke)

only started missing sitting in the shop.

 

the exhaust is clear

[thenee]

Hope this is some use to you?.

The Spark Plugs it shows in my manual are: PK16R11 for ND (Nippon Denso) or BKR5EP11 for NGK.

(maybe irrelevant or superseded now ?,since publication of manual, may be an answer floating around the forum on which spark plugs best to use?).

The Gaps for them are 1.1mm (0.043 in.) NEW / 1.3mm (0.051 in.) Used/max gap.

 

Just a thought…

The faults described , I thought I check in the 2JZ-GE manual. Here’s a list of possible causes under “Rough Idle” (I thought best fit the decribed symptoms?) in the order the manual recommends tackling in.

 

I thought could shed some light on the issue?(or maybe confuse you with my rambling on, lol!).

 

1) Switch condition signal circuit (DTC 51)

* A/C SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT

* THROTTLE POSITION CIRCUIT (IDL SIGNAL)

* ACCELERATOR PEDAL & OR CABLE

* ECU

 

2) ISC valve/ circuit.

* CHECK OPERATION FOR ISC VALVE - NG replace ISC valve.

* CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTORS BETWEEN EFI MAIN RELAY RELAY ISC VALVE & ECU.

 

3) Vacuum Sensor Circuit.

* OPEN OR SHORT IN VACUUM SENSOR CIRCUIT.

* VACUUM SENSOR

* ECU

 

4) Injector circuit.

* Wiring/ Connectors/ fuses etc.

 

5) Variable Resistor Circuit (Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw sensor)

 

6) Ignition signal Circuit

* Wiring Harness / Connectors

 

7) Compression.

 

8) Fuel Pump

 

9) Igniton Coil.

 

10) Distributor

 

11) Spark Plugs

 

12) Back up Power Source Circuit.

*EFI No.1 FUSE

*WIRE HARNESS/ CONNECTORS

*ECU

 

Thank you i'll try a few of these things out.

[barneybrendan]

maybe valve stem oil seals knackerd.that was my problem with my na .same symptons black smoke and hunting.

[thenee]

maybe valve stem oil seals knackerd.that was my problem with my na .same symptons black smoke and hunting.

 

 

did you get back press (smoke) out of the filler cap?

[JODY T]

easiest way to drain the tank would be to disconnect the fuel filter and let it drain into a bucket, then fit a new one and refill with new fuel..