barneybrendan Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 just watched the video, Thats going to sound awesome on full throttle the only ones who really know what it sounds like full chat is afr from when it was up there last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 It's stupid load, just ticking over, if you take it to France I reckon you start it in the tunnel, it would cause a tidal wave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Been speaking to magnusun products and i am going to definately go for their remote bypass unit and remove the greddy bov.Fingers crossed delivery will be quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Been speaking to magnusun products and i am going to definately go for their remote bypass unit and remove the greddy bov.Fingers crossed delivery will be quick. How much do you want for the dumpvalve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Not sure what the boost gauge is reading as Ian said the datalogging showd no boost at all,even up to 3000rpm. It recorded -9psi at 1000rpm idle, which is what I'd expect - the engine will be breathing through the idle air control valve and the throttle butterfly will be pretty much sealed shut. I did see a brief moment of positive pressure (1 to 3 psi) when the car first fired into life as you opened the throttle about 33% to get it going (no surprise considering how rich it is at the moment). So what you say about it constantly running boost is probably true. However the TB after the 'charger will still act as a big restriction at narrow throttle openings - the engine will still draw a vacuum as it's trying to metaphorically suck air through a small straw. I think it'll be quite sensitive to throttle inputs when tootling around, though - good luck reverse parking it However at the moment I reckon you've still got electrical gremlins or fouled plugs. I'm hoping the latter, I'm thinking about the former. What could make the fuel pump and injectors suddenly work with a thump on the dashboard I do not know But it's having problems restarting now -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDR Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 What could make the fuel pump and injectors suddenly work with a thump on the dashboard I do not know But it's having problems restarting now -Ian Delimiter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Begining to think that the original idea of putting the throttle body first might actualy of been a better idea and a bit more tuner friendly.Instead of actualy mounting it directly on the charger like i was thinking i might try it half way up the intake pipe.I have another complete na intake system here to take parts off and flanges.Problem is this would set me back a couple of weeks but as i now have to wait for my bypass valve to come that might just be the time i need. At the moment my plugs are black and soaking with fuel,so going to take them all out and give them a damn good clean. I have got a delimiter,not sure where as it was already fitted when i got the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 There is an often-overlooked advantage which supercharging can provide - preheating of the air charge in off-boost conditions to obtain significant emission and economy benefits during warm up and cruise. It is fortuitous that this takes place automatically because the losses from pumping against a vacuum appear as heat in a smaller volume of air which therefore becomes much hotter. Even a screw compressor can deliver air at around 150 C when off-boost. However, the effect does need to be controlled by some sort of by-pass or the pumping losses within the supercharger can outweigh the gains. Another drawback is that when the throttle is suddenly opened after a short period at light throttle the boosted charge is initially heated up as it extracts the latent heat that has built up in the system. This can give rise to a brief period of detonation - usually harmless but still undesirable. The same effect explains why supercharged engines often require minimal temporary fuel enrichment as the throttle is opened. For highly boosted engines it can be better, not only to employ a bypass system, but also to place the throttle after the supercharger so there is no heat build up off-boost. A throttled supercharger on a racing engine, in the light load, high revving, condition during the seconds before the start of a race, can heat up nearly to the point of seizure, so as the car gets off the line both the blower and the engine (as the excess heat dissipates into the system) are under extreme stresses that do not apply at other times. Reliability is much improved with a bypass and throttling after the supercharger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I think it'll be quite sensitive to throttle inputs when tootling around, though - good luck reverse parking it lol, Bet he didnt think of that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 There is an often-overlooked advantage which supercharging can provide - preheating of the air charge in off-boost conditions to obtain significant emission and economy benefits during warm up and cruise. It is fortuitous that this takes place automatically because the losses from pumping against a vacuum appear as heat in a smaller volume of air which therefore becomes much hotter. Even a screw compressor can deliver air at around 150 C when off-boost. However, the effect does need to be controlled by some sort of by-pass or the pumping losses within the supercharger can outweigh the gains. Another drawback is that when the throttle is suddenly opened after a short period at light throttle the boosted charge is initially heated up as it extracts the latent heat that has built up in the system. This can give rise to a brief period of detonation - usually harmless but still undesirable. The same effect explains why supercharged engines often require minimal temporary fuel enrichment as the throttle is opened. For highly boosted engines it can be better, not only to employ a bypass system, but also to place the throttle after the supercharger so there is no heat build up off-boost. A throttled supercharger on a racing engine, in the light load, high revving, condition during the seconds before the start of a race, can heat up nearly to the point of seizure, so as the car gets off the line both the blower and the engine (as the excess heat dissipates into the system) are under extreme stresses that do not apply at other times. Reliability is much improved with a bypass and throttling after the supercharger. so am i just getting myself confused then,and leaving the throttle body where it is will be fine aslong as the bypass valve is doing its job properly.This was sort of my thinking earlier which is why i have now orderd a remote bypass off magnusun products.According to them this valve will be perfect for my setup.Iam going to plumb it in directly after the supercharger so it goes directly back into the intake pipe,less distance to travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 will be fine and eliminate the need for open throttle fuel addition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thats settled that brain fart i was having then.CHEERS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 At the moment my plugs are black and soaking with fuel,so going to take them all out and give them a damn good clean. That's probably why it won't start then Did you try the EMU's anti-plug-fouling thing I told you about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 That's probably why it won't start then Did you try the EMU's anti-plug-fouling thing I told you about? not yet mate got to get a battery charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 don't know exactly the problem you have, but on my Integra i had a supercharger and on the intake manifold it had a valve connected to the charger. can't remember very well what was the purpose, but i believe it had to do something with keeping the engine running with the throttle closed. this pics may help you with something. http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4724/cimg0702f.jpg http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/4785/cimg0692.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 this is Integra related stuff but the bases should be the same have a look> http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/jrsc/jrsc.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 nice laminova cores in there by the looks of it aswell.same thing as what im trying to do to stop the build up of pressure ,just i was using a bov and wasnt sure if it was causing things to flutter so descided to go for a proper bypass valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 the laminova cores did help to keep the air temp acceptable at higher boost, as you may know centrifugal chargers generates lots of heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 the laminova cores did help to keep the air temp acceptable at higher boost, as you may know centrifugal chargers generates lots of heat. That is the long term aim if it all works as those laminova cores seem to be pretty damn good.got loads of write ups and peoples build pictures saved for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 (edited) i can get you all the pics on my setup if that help's you, i have pics from the water pump, water/air cooler, ported S/C etc. Edited February 3, 2011 by trinitom (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Lets hope we get that valve soon mate. Did you manage to get those fans and sensor done this weekend ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 (edited) i need to lengthen the wires so i need to borow your electrical stuff again.Just checked delivery on the valve and it arrived in uk customs yesterday. Edited February 7, 2011 by barneybrendan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) Still waiting for this damn bypass valve,so descided to fit the inline sender for the electric fans and get rid of the crappy cappilary switch.Also sorted the wires out and got the relays out the way.The car is running again now ,was just down to dirty plugs,but like a numpty i connected all the pipes up and forgot i had removed the bov.Now the charger had no way of releasing pressure ,you can guese what happend.One almighty bang and a jubilee clip flying across the road,OOPS.I have the pipe going to the throttle body disconected now and the cone air filter hasnt been put back on yet.With the filter off and the intake pipe open the noise is a lot less,i can hear the exhaust over the noise of the charger.Armed with this information i think i am going to get rid of the power enterprise cone filter and look around the scrap yards for an airbox that will fit in the space i have.I was surprised how much of a difference it actualy made with the filter removed,you can actually change the note by placing open fingers over the intake pipe ,this makes it louder. Just a thought would it be ok to plumb the bypass valve back into the airbox,instaed of going back into the pipe.Its part of the intake so hopefully it wouldnt make any difference. Edited February 9, 2011 by barneybrendan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Been around the scrapyard and picked up 3 air boxes one from a mondeo,the other from a rover,but i cant remember what the third one is from for the life of me.As it works out the third one will fit best with a bit of cutting and glueing.S o if any body can tell me what its from that would be nice.The air filter is from halfords HAF402 ,but i still cant seem to find a link to what vehicle its from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Its been taht thick heavy drizzle all day here,but i couldnt let that put me off.The airbox is now fitted securely in place and plumbed in.The fuse box had to be moved up slightly,may need to have a little tweek as i think it might be catching the bonnet.As for the airbox itself that will be fed cold air from the bottom through a pipe.the housing came with a tight 90 degree rubber elbow which was perfect.The original intake pipe that i made was removed completely and i found some flexy intake pipe in the shed,this was the perfect length with just a 3" piece of stainless either end to join the couplings.What i am going to do when the bypass valve turns up today is plumb that directly feeding back into the airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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