barneybrendan Posted May 10, 2010 Author Share Posted May 10, 2010 check that wire we resolderd is right at the main switch mate thats fine its only a battery isolator.battery in one side then the other 2 lives the other side, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 10, 2010 Author Share Posted May 10, 2010 i have now fitted another altinator took off the starter to check the main cable ,that is ok rtraced every connector /wire coming out the loom and its all connected.yet the issue still there. this has now become one major setback.Are there any other fuses on the car that i might of missed,but im thinking if im getting a spark when i turn on the ignition (this doesnt happen every time).then there shouldnt be a blown fuse.this project has taken a lot of my time and caused some head scratching but has been ticking along up until now.the only thing realy to try now is another na ecu/piggy back.I am also thinking of removing my loom and replacing it with a standard na one,to eliminate any issue with the resistor pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 when are you suposed to be getting another ECU as i still have mine left over, can post to you if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 10, 2010 Author Share Posted May 10, 2010 when are you suposed to be getting another ECU as i still have mine left over, can post to you if you like. saturday at japfest.cheers to be honest ive had enough of the thing for a bit now anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Im glad its nothing to do with the engine bud, ive fitted and changed engine's before and been told (promised) they are good but until it fire's up and run's smooth the doubt is always there. Look forward to seeing it running so you better do a recording for all us boys on here to see it plus i wanna see me old engine live again lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Keep your chin up mate ill speak to kevin today and see if he can pop over or we tow it over to him ? see if they got a towing bar not rope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Keep your chin up mate ill speak to kevin today and see if he can pop over or we tow it over to him ? see if they got a towing bar not rope ok mate,bet its something so simple that is getting overlooked.but through all the process of ilimination i cant for the life of me see what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDR Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 The MAP2 is the unknown here as you don't know what map is loaded onto it - there are a wealth of settings to do with ignition and air metering that need to be set right for your engine setup. If it's truly using the inbuilt MAP sensor then the wire from the loom for the standard MAF sensor should be cut and the MAP2 MAP output feeding into that pin on the standard ECU connector into the Toyota ECU. Unless you really know what you're up to with the MAP2, you should take it out the loop and return wiring / fuelling to stock - it'll save you a lot of wasted time and headscratching troubleshooting all sorts when it's likely MAP2 related. Once you're up and running standard, then start changing variables to suit being boosted. I wasted a good couple of days headscratching when I first got my MAP2 and fitted to my TT with a fields copy harness - I was a guinea pig as it was just out. I actually developed the J-Spec base maps with the MAP guys after IanC kindly gave me stock MAP output voltages to work from. Before then you couldn't eliminate the stock MAP sensor and run off the MAP2 internal one. I had ignition issues too and took a while to figure out correct jumper settings and wiring as mine wasn't a USA / UK spec which is what they were originally designed for. Cheers, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Its the engine turning backwards that is very odd thing , and only when ignition is on -there are very few things that can cause this ! find this first and it will probably explain the ignition issue - usually there is only 1 problem that has subsequent effects any links to a wiring diagram? and I will take a look -and list points to check , to eliminate components such as the ignition switch itself the starter can only go backwards if supply has swapped ie pos volts on the earth and the positive making and earth return , even a low voltage will try and turn the other way but not fully crank Slow and logical is always the way with these type problems ,and again rushing to complete the project can always lead to simple errors , being tired ,or darkness /rain coming on can push you to rush things If you just start swapping thing all over the place you can introduce new defects that were not there in the first place , now it will get complex!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Saw it my self last night When ingnition on you get an initial spark prob energising This would prob cause unburt fuel from previously crancking to ignite causing to rotate back about 1/2 inch on pully ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Saw it my self last night When ingnition on you get an initial spark prob energising This would prob cause unburt fuel from previously crancking to ignite causing to rotate back about 1/2 inch on pully ? how far is it rotating? 1/2 inch - aircon compressor energising? , as above , fuel injectors open all the time filling the chamber with pressure? try disconnecting air con plug, pulling fuel relay , start relay ,all plug leads , one at a time -see what happens ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 No aircon fitted, coil energising ? Next is crank position sensor !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 :(just tried another na ecu ,still not sparking.really need to revert back to standard now and fit another loom minus the resistor pack and the map 2 ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 do you have an alarm fitted? might be that thts faild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 do you have an alarm fitted? might be that thts faild? no just an immobilizer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 have you tryed bypassing that back to factory, i used to work at an auto electricians and the amount of ; toad , viper, sterling, clifford and a few other immobilisers and alarms we had to chop out was silliy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 have you tryed bypassing that back to factory, i used to work at an auto electricians and the amount of ; toad , viper, sterling, clifford and a few other immobilisers and alarms we had to chop out was silliy i was thinking about having it removed,it cuts the ignition completely so engine cant be turned over,but that is working.would it also be wired in to stop any sort of spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 there is a few alarms that will let you turn the engine but not spark. my clifford don't let the engine turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 it depends what cut they took it off when they fitted it. alot of inobilisers are duel cut eg they cut cranking and fuel or ignition and cranking, if one of the relays in the imob have faild it may well crank but no ignite. do you know if its a single or multi point imobiliser? its well worth bypassing it just to try you never know. just fing witch lines go live on the unput side of the imobiliser and tap a wire onti it around the main brain and to the corisponding wire after the box. you never know ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 (edited) there is a few alarms that will let you turn the engine but not spark. my clifford don't let the engine turn. my imobilezer does the same engine cannot be cranked,but would it also stop the spark.mine is lazerline just looked it up on the net and it cuts all the electric curcuits.starter,ignition and injection or coil. Edited May 16, 2010 by barneybrendan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 immobilizer now removed ,still no spark.i have power coming from the coil but thats it doesnt seem to be doing anything at the dizzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 immobilizer now removed ,still no spark.i have power coming from the coil but thats it doesnt seem to be doing anything at the dizzy. that's probably a low power going there, and cannot reach the dizzy. you are running a tt harness on your car right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 that's probably a low power going there, and cannot reach the dizzy. you are running a tt harness on your car right? no its the na one power is around 9.9v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinitom Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 no its the na one power is around 9.9v do you have the N/A repair manual? i have one and can send you a few prints about the ignition system, if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 do you have the N/A repair manual? i have one and can send you a few prints about the ignition system, if you want. i havnt and that would be great if you could.its now becoming anoying that i cant seem to sort this stupid problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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