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NEW UK Spec Brake Kit


THOR Racing

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From branners previous post about front/rear brake bias, if the rear is coming round while you're on the brakes it's more likely due to weight transfer to the front than brake bias.  If you put more brakes at the rear, then the rear tyres will still get just as light, but they'll be closer to locking up and you'll get MORE oversteer, not less!

 

I'm not a chassis engineer or anything, that just makes sense to me!  Tell me if I'm wrong :)

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Never had the problem either, done plenty of track days with UK front and Jap rears. As long as you matched front and rear pads it should be fine.

 

Anyone interested in buying 6 pot big brakes from myself?I'm about to have 2 different kits made, 330mm and 356mm and may be a 380mm kit depending on whether i can get them under my wheels or not.  The front kits will sell for around £1200 and these included AP discs, 6 pot billet alluminium calipers, pads, bells, braided hoses, etc.

 

 

Paul

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Quote: from Adam Wootten on 9:40 pm on Mar. 7, 2002[br]From branners previous post about front/rear brake bias, if the rear is coming round while you're on the brakes it's more likely due to weight transfer to the front than brake bias.  If you put more brakes at the rear, then the rear tyres will still get just as light, but they'll be closer to locking up and you'll get MORE oversteer, not less!

 

I'm not a chassis engineer or anything, that just makes sense to me!  Tell me if I'm wrong :)

 

I have race pads and the car is lowered, so where stock car will dive a specific amount under braking mine is diving further than normal compared to the rear which makes the back lighter, but fitting UK brakes probably wont make it any worse as the race pads are probably as good as UK spec brakes just very expensive.

 

JB

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Quote: from Adam Wootten on 9:40 pm on Mar. 7, 2002[br]From branners previous post about front/rear brake bias, if the rear is coming round while you're on the brakes it's more likely due to weight transfer to the front than brake bias.  If you put more brakes at the rear, then the rear tyres will still get just as light, but they'll be closer to locking up and you'll get MORE oversteer, not less!

 

I'm not a chassis engineer or anything, that just makes sense to me!  Tell me if I'm wrong :)

 

I have race pads and the car is lowered, so where stock car will dive a specific amount under braking mine is diving further than normal compared to the rear which makes the back lighter, but fitting UK brakes probably wont make it any worse as the race pads are probably as good as UK spec brakes just very expensive.

 

JB

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i have the print out from the parts man, ive checked the part no's with the "part nos for uk bakes" post and they r a perfect match. so thats it double checked and all ok. i can not understand the huge price difference compared to mycrofts quote of about a grand..

 

phil, u jammy bugger any more s/h uk rears going spare around there. my rears are shot.

 

 

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Ok, so where are we now?

 

Are we going to do a group buy and if so, who's arranging it? and are we looking at fronts only or rears as well?

 

Front's are the only ones I'm really interested in, but if the deal is for all round then so be it.

 

I'm ready to buy as soon as you like...

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I was talking to Leon today about this and that and I said I was looking at brakes and did he advise fitting the rears and he said there was really not much point, it would obviously even out the braking a bit but with the amount of weight thrown forward on a mkiv then theres very little braking needed at the back. He only fitted UK rears to his because he had them available.

 

So Im interested in a set of UK fronts and not the rears.

 

JB

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im thinking of going with the fronts only uk spec and new jspec discs for my rears. if u guys run alright with that setup then it will be ok for me and that means the cash saved can go on decat, yippee :). email me about how u want to do this buy.

 

ta

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i need some definate quantities before i can get an absolute price.

 

he is a little worried about being left with these on a shelf if we back out after ordering there is something like a 30% handling charge for returning them to toyota (£200ish), so lets all b nice to the man :)

 

im not making anything from this, so if i get the quanties (definates) i will get a price (definate), then ill give u the address of the dealers (or phone number for credit card), u lot send yr money to him, he orders them & despatches them to u direct with yr own receipt for yr service history. in other words we all individualy deal direct with the dealer under a group buy name. i dont have to do anything except bob down a couple of times.

 

the prices as i posted them earlier in this thread still stand its just the discount that will shift.

 

so speak up and let the brake buying comence........

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Whoooooooosh........

 

That was the noise of something flying over my head!

 

Please explain. I have fitted loads of new disks on previous cars, and my wifes current car, (about 2 weeks ago), I've never had juddering problems.

 

Surely I cant have been within 1/10th mm acurate each time by luck?

 

Don't misunderstand me, I'm not critisising by any means, I've just not heard of this before.

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My jap fronts got a little cooked on the track.  I have lost the measurements but when I checked the run-out it was out by less than 0.3mm, on both.  At legal speeds and just above there is no problem but stopping from 150+ is very uncomfortable. Hence my desire for new UK fronts, as I have to change discs any way.

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I'm not claiming to be a mechanic and I wouldn't offer to fit anyones brakes either. However, I do believe that there is only one way to learn, and in principle, fitting brakes is a very straightforward job.

No, in answer to your statement, none of my previous cars could even dream of reaching 150 mph but I never had any problems with breaking after I fitted new disks/pads etc.

 

If disc runout is that critical, and I'm not denying that it is, does this mean that all Kwik-fit fitters would know how to fit them to micro-millimetre standards? - I wouldn't let them loose on my car either.

 

So, can you explain "disk runnout" so that I may understand and learn.

I would like to fit my own brakes, but I would also like to know how to fit them properly.

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Thanks, yet again, for a very good explanation. I had never heard of this before. I had heard the term used but misassociated it with the wear lifespan of a disk.

This is obviously something well worth knowing and I will definately use this when fitting my new brakes in the (hopefully) very near future.

 

As for "breaking", well, I did mean braking, although I have "broken" a few cars in my time :)

 

Just one quick question you may be able to answer regarding brakes:- If I brake hard from high speed, I get the sound and feel of having a warped disk somewhere. After this has happened, when braking at slow speeds, as I come to a stop, I get a grinding sound as if I have no pads left.

I have checked the amount of "tread" left on the pads, (about 7mm front, 4mm rear), and the disks do have light score marks.

If I park the car for an hour or so, the brakes will not grind again until I brake hard again... This happens roughly 1 in 5 times.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

And, yes, perhaps this should be in technical. :)

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