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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Idling problem with a warm engine


Spike3.0

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Hi all,

 

My N/A has a little problem: (

 

On occasion, which is quite rare I must add.

 

The Idle fluxuates a little from 600-700rpm in a pulsing action.

 

This only ever happens whilst warm, and particularly after a long drive. Which I do often unfortunately.

 

It doesn't happen every time, and if I drive with the problem happening it goes away.

 

Not the worst problem ever, but all the same didn't want to damage anything.

 

Appreciate any help.

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My N/a used to do this, and what sorted it for me seems to be that the ECU Output wire was not connected to the ECU on my speedo converter and de-limiter.

 

Seems like it has nothing to do with the idling, but like i said, as soon as i connected it up, it has never idled low again.

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I had similar problems very recently.

 

I have changed over my spark plugs and leads and the problem has gone away (turned out to be a misfire)- however whilst I was trying to diagnose mine several options were mentioned. Mine appeared shortly after getting a bumper changed and coolant changed out.

 

Idle control valve

Throttle position sensor

O2 sensor (though I think this was only a problem when not moving / in P or N)

Vacuum leak

De-limiter (already mentioned, however im 99% sure mine doesnt have a de-limiter as the dials still read KpH - if that has anything to do with it)

 

Have you had it to a garage to check it out?

 

Does it feel like its going to stall when you come to a stop at traffic lights / is it juddering when moving off.

 

Also is it manual or auto? as if its manual then all of the above was relating to an automatic - but someone on here with a bit more knowledge might say it doesnt make a difference :)

 

Hope this helps

 

If it turns out to be plugs do an advanced search for "plugs" and posts by Alex as he put a nice faq up (or head to the faq section).

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I had similar problems very recently.

 

I have changed over my spark plugs and leads and the problem has gone away (turned out to be a misfire)-

 

thats all down to the fact that no one will fork out for new leads from toyota.

Yes there expensive but every single NA ive had in for service work has always been the same... corroded centre contact on the dizzy which seizes the lead from the coil to the dizzy

 

If they have never been changed, change them and the dizzy cap. Will be fine for a few more years then

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Well my issue was like that, had it in drive stopped at lights or just with foot on break, revs dropped down then needle would bounce around a little. The whole car would judder / shake until i started to move again then the problem vanished (which was weird). Returned as soon as I stopped.

 

Let us know how you get on with it :)

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