Nettielikescars Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Yes on both counts The UK shocks or springs shouldn't be used on an NA and vice versa. Cheers for that, thats a right bummer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Cheers for that, thats a right bummer! Why, have you got UK Spec springs which you wanted to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Cheers for that, thats a right bummer! On the other hand it's good that you didn't waste money on unsuitable suspension As mentioned, the subframe bolts are the first point of call and a very easy thing to check. They have very specific torque ratings and need to be set accordingly (again, nearly all garages will just do them up FT and cause more problems). The next point of call is to look at the shock itself. What year is the car, are the shocks original and are they confirmed as stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Why, have you got UK Spec springs which you wanted to fit? I have been offered some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 On the other hand it's good that you didn't waste money on unsuitable suspension As mentioned, the subframe bolts are the first point of call and a very easy thing to check. They have very specific torque ratings and need to be set accordingly (again, nearly all garages will just do them up FT and cause more problems). The next point of call is to look at the shock itself. What year is the car, are the shocks original and are they confirmed as stock? Its a 1995 3ltr N/a Jspec, the shocks on the car look black, I think its all original Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Its a 1995 3ltr N/a Jspec, the shocks on the car look black, I think its all original They might well be original and therefore 14 years old, when they are on their way out they normally knock under high compresion and decompresion. It's often difficult to diagnose on a ramp so if the subframe bolts, suspension bushes, balljoints and track ends are within limit it'd not do much harm to replace them with stock units. They are not expensive (relatively when it comes to suspension parts!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 They might well be original and therefore 14 years old, when they are on their way out they normally knock under high compresion and decompresion. It's often difficult to diagnose on a ramp so if the subframe bolts, suspension bushes, balljoints and track ends are within limit it'd not do much harm to replace them with stock units. They are not expensive (relatively when it comes to suspension parts!) Where is the best place to get them from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Where is the best place to get them from? If you want to keep it stock then try Paul Whiffin (the website is down right now) or Steve Manley at Toyota in Oxford (see members section). They will be a lot cheaper than your regular dealership. If you want to swap out for aftermarket (i.e stiffer, harsher ride) then stock then you'd need to replace all 4 corners, but I'd not recommend it unless you want to go the modified route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 If you want to keep it stock then try Paul Whiffin (the website is down right now) or Steve Manley at Toyota in Oxford (see members section). They will be a lot cheaper than your regular dealership. If you want to swap out for aftermarket (i.e stiffer, harsher ride) then stock then you'd need to replace all 4 corners, but I'd not recommend it unless you want to go the modified route. Cheers for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 take the wheels off in turn , and try it on a spare. a small flat spot on a tyre can cause all sorts of knoking and banging. Wouldnt you get that on smooth rds though not just bumpy ones ? My money is on a damper failing (shock absorber) mine went and made an awful knocking noise over bumpy rds but was fine on smooth rds If it was a valve inside the tyre loose then that would also happen on rough and smooth rds so doubt its that either. Good luck on your hunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 As said before the the first thing to do is check the subframe bolts, does it click when you reverse???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 As said before the the first thing to do is check the subframe bolts, does it click when you reverse???? No noise in reverse, only on bumpy roads! Tried the spare on the drivers side today, didn't make any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreaseMonkey Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Just a thought....... I once came across a nasty metallic knocking/ clicking noise from the front end on a mates Celica, ok when going in a straight line on smooth roads regardless of temperature. Only occured mainly when cornering on full lock or when going over uneven surfaces. Thought it was Subframe/ Suspension bolts which we checked and found to be ok . Turned out to be the front Bumper Reinforcement Bar, (Behind/ underneath the front Bumper which connects to the front Chassis Legs) after alot of swearing and head scratching lol!. The Creaking/ Knocking we found was caused by the Reinforcement bar bolts being ever so slightly loose, So as the front Chassis Legs moved against the Reinforcement bar from the Torsional/ laterally twisting forces imposed on the Chassis a i.e cornering/ uneven surfaces made the Creak/ Knocking noise. We suspect it occured due to age we guess, as he had the car since new and hasn't touched or damaged the front end ,(now 10yrs old, when fault occured ) Has been ok since/ at present. But its just a thought........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Thanks for the thought, worth bearing in mind, if all else fails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Try lightly resting your foot very lightly on the brake pedal when it's making a knocking noise, it's probably the calipers or pads knocking if it stops it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Try lightly resting your foot very lightly on the brake pedal when it's making a knocking noise, it's probably the calipers or pads knocking if it stops it. Have tried this already and looked at the calipers today when we had the wheel off, only thing we noticed that it will need brake pads soon. Thanks for the suggestion though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Dampers can go noisy internally (foot valve loose or broken). You may also want to see if the bump stop is no longer fully retained in the top mount. It should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 thank you for all the advise given, just to give an update on the noise. Took it to the garage who looked after my Skyline, and asked him to check the front Subframe bolts for me, Which he did then and there (cos hes a good egg), the rear ones on the front subframe where tight but when he checked the ones at the front of the subframe, they where down to about 40nm, so he torqued them up for me. It seemed to be a quiter but there was still a knocking. Well i have now also changed the Wheels to 17inch and the front of the car feels loads better, but still has a slight noise. Andy at SP Autos (the chap who looked after my Skyline)is going to check the Rear Subframe this week for me. I'll give up an update once this has been done. Thanks for the advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Ive had this before, i checked everything on the car and couldnt find a fault, but pushing down the driverside front suspension made the noise so i took the whole suspension off and checked each part, I cam up with nothing untill i dismantled the shocker.. Basically the top nut had been done up with an air gun which had damaged some of the threads of the shock. the nut would go tight but it wasnt down enough to stop the shock moving and hitting the inside of the topmount.. It was only a few mm but enough to make horrible sounds.. I replaced the front shocks and the noise went as everything was tight once more.. Might not be your problem, but worth having a look at if all else fails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Ive had this before, i checked everything on the car and couldnt find a fault, but pushing down the driverside front suspension made the noise so i took the whole suspension off and checked each part, I cam up with nothing untill i dismantled the shocker.. Basically the top nut had been done up with an air gun which had damaged some of the threads of the shock. the nut would go tight but it wasnt down enough to stop the shock moving and hitting the inside of the topmount.. It was only a few mm but enough to make horrible sounds.. I replaced the front shocks and the noise went as everything was tight once more.. Might not be your problem, but worth having a look at if all else fails I have got 2 front shocks ready to be put on, but that wont be til after chrimbo. The car has had all sorts of tests, even on one of the new MOT ramps that shakes the car. It is alot better than it wass, it doesn't sound or feel like the cars falling apart now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Suprafly Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Have you checked your anti roll bar bushes? I've also had an annoying rattly knocking noise lately driving me nuts, the sound was to me pointing towards the droplinks, so I changed them and the noise was still there, it turned out to be worn anti roll bar bushes. How to check? Simple... Jack up the car, remove the plastic front undertray (handfull of 10mm bolts/screws) which will reveal the ARB, take a good grip of it with both hands and see if you can get some play, if you do then theres your problem right there. I discovered this on my car last friday, and I'm now going to give whifbitz a buzz today for some replacement uprated Poly bushes. My money is on these mate, it's easy to check and may save you £££'s on eliminating other items, also the poly ARB bushes for front and rears together will see you get change from 40 quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Just as a gentle reminder, please try and open a new thread with a sensible subject heading. If someone wants to search for a suspension knocking noise later on they won't find it with "Please help!!!!!!!!!!" as the title, even with 10 exclamation points. There is a drive to simply lock a thread should the title be rather unhelpful, however in this case the thread is already 4 pages long, there is a genuine problem and a useful discussion taking place, and the OP has a low post count and so probably is unaware of the missive from Mawby & the rest of us So I'll just change the title to something more useful and be on my way. Don't ask me why this thread was locked, it's a mystery - it wasn't because of the thread title. Apologies about that. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nettielikescars Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Just as a gentle reminder, please try and open a new thread with a sensible subject heading. If someone wants to search for a suspension knocking noise later on they won't find it with "Please help!!!!!!!!!!" as the title, even with 10 exclamation points. There is a drive to simply lock a thread should the title be rather unhelpful, however in this case the thread is already 4 pages long, there is a genuine problem and a useful discussion taking place, and the OP has a low post count and so probably is unaware of the missive from Mawby & the rest of us So I'll just change the title to something more useful and be on my way. Don't ask me why this thread was locked, it's a mystery - it wasn't because of the thread title. Apologies about that. -Ian I'm very sorry, i wont do it again [OOPS][/OOPS] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 I'm very sorry, i wont do it again [OOPS][/OOPS] Don't worry about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Suprafly Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Have you made any progress with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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