jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Spent the day fitting my manifold etc, and one of my problem studs (that has kept coming out) is well & truly fecked. I think at this point I'm just going to scrap this head & put the car away for the winter. It'll give me time to think whether I will put a stock head on (plus my 264's) or maybe go for a race head and oversize valves. I'm pretty sure I will attempt this myself (under supervision of someone who knows what they're doing). Is a head replacement a job possible in my garage? Also my new 4" Dp/Mp doesn't reach my HKS Ti so that'll need extending. In the end & just put all the kit on the car (inc my old turbo) so I could back it off the drive & swap it in the garage with the 911, what a racket it made without a midpipe Going to get ratted tonight to drown my sorrowes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 totaly off topic but i feel your pain j!! i went to start fitting my manual pedals today only to find the brake pedal cradle is snapped where the brake light switch is! Gave up and walked away! Now back to topic, i suppose you could do it in your garage, shouldnt be a problem ASLONG as there is someone there with half a clue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 I've started this & I want to see it through now, I wouldn't attempt building the head (I'd just either buy one pre built or get a shop to do it), but I think I could manage bolting it all back together under supervious (hope's Hodge sees this thread ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 As I'm a total newb to this I'd better ask some basic questions. Can I buy a head from any 2JZ-GTE whether it be UK/US/Jap or even from an Aristo (as my block is an Aristo block) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 i cant see why not! the only thing that i know which are different on the aristo's is the sump, the rest is the same im sure of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 I can understand why heads can't be repaired easily in most aspects, but Id' have thought it would be simple enough for a machinist to provide some kind of solution to this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Stage 5 whifbitz head seems good value:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 I can understand why heads can't be repaired easily in most aspects, but Id' have thought it would be simple enough for a machinist to provide some kind of solution to this? The particular stud had previously been helicoiled, so the 10mm thread is prolly at 12mm now, I'd be willing to try another solution as it seems a waste to get rid of a perfecty good built head due to pulling a stud out Stage 5 whifbitz head seems good value:) Having a look now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Which stud has pulled out? Pretty much anything can be repaired, at a price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 The particular stud had previously been helicoiled, so the 10mm thread is prolly at 12mm now, I'd be willing to try another solution as it seems a waste to get rid of a perfecty good built head due to pulling a stud out Ah....that's a shame. I wonder if it can be filled and redrilled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Just emailed you Chris It's 2nd from right on the top, Also I was told the last time the head went on that it had a lot of material removed from the umpteen previous skimminings & this was prolly the last time it could be put on (I think they used a 2mm HG to keep compression as stock), is this the final nail in the coffin for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 (edited) But if its a problem with a stud pulling surely the problem is in the top of the block where the stud is screwed in? Sorry, thought it was a head bolt, not a manifold bolt as I've just discovered by re-reading it properly. Edited November 7, 2009 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Its an exhaust manifold stud, not a head stud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Replied to your e-mail. Why was it skimmed? Has it been overheated and warped? If so bin it. The cam journals will no longer be straight and it may have gone soft if has been got very hot, hence studs pulling, for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Cheers Chris, I will sort the pics tomorrow. I don't know why it was skimmed, It has never overheated since I have had it, not sure if it has in a previous life (the head & block were supplied by Michel at the time of my single conversion). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Physical damage or overheating are the two commonest reasons for skimming. If it were mine I'd have a hardness test done on it, and the same test done on a known never overheated head. If it has gone soft it's a scrapper. Have the cam journals checked for warpage too. That just needs an engineering straight edge. The hardness test needs a Brinell tester. You can probably find somewhere fairly local for hardness testing. http://www.hardnesstesters.com/brinell-hardness-tester.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 If the cam journals have warped would I be seeing any other side effects? Can I check them by just removing the cam covers? I might need direction as to what the "journals" are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 The cradles that the camshafts sit into. Camshafts will need to be lifted to test these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Cheers Pedro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest blueangel Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Sorry to hear this fella and after you had been making such headway, i can wait until mine is in a state wher i can copy you in your tidy efforts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Cheers bud, I've got a couple of irons in the fire now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest blueangel Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Cheers bud, I've got a couple of irons in the fire now put another 1 in and come do my bay for me please;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 I've got ya back jay LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Cheers mate , I've stopped worrying about it now & am going down the club Chris, here's a mega close up of the offending hole: http://www.imotors.co.uk/temp/jay/SupraHead/IMG_4601.jpg Click to open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 If the cam journals have warped would I be seeing any other side effects? Can I check them by just removing the cam covers? I might need direction as to what the "journals" are If the heads off the car take it to an engineering company that can either check it using there inspection CMM machine or just pop it on a milling machine and put a verdict clock in the tool head and run along the cam journals. Very easy to do and only take a few minutes If its on the car and you have an accurate straight edge you could see the warp along the journals but you need a good edge and a good eye. Cams need to come out in both cases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.