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What Sort Of Cost To Go Single?


a98pmalcolm

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A V-Band is a type of clamp

 

I thought that, i'm guessing the type of clamp that holds the exhaust housing and compressor housing together on the stock tubby's?

 

The reason i asked is i can't see how that would make a difference to the manifold. I'm guessing V-Band is the way that the downpipe connects to the exhaust housing.

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The reason i asked is i can't see how that would make a difference to the manifold. I'm guessing V-Band is the way that the downpipe connects to the exhaust housing.

 

V-bands can be used on the joints between manifold/turbo, the turbo/downpipe and to connect the exhaust sections.

 

Most Supra single turbo kits use a T4 (4 bolt) mounting bracket between the manifold and turbo, they then use either a v-band or 4 bolt joint between the turbo and downpipe.

 

The advantage of the v-band is that it allows the 2 connected parts to rotate in relation to each other, this is useful on the turbo/downpipe joint as it allows some adjustment when fitting.

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At a guess I would say it has something to do with the exhaust housing of the turbo being 90 degrees anti-clockwise to a tubular manifold, therefore the four bolt downpipe wouldn't mate up to the bolts.

 

Ahhh thats making sense. Is the 4 bolt rectangular then? Would need to cut and shut the downpipe in order to get it to fit.

 

Thanks :)

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V-bands can be used on the joints between manifold/turbo, the turbo/downpipe and to connect the exhaust sections.

 

Most Supra single turbo kits use a T4 (4 bolt) mounting bracket between the manifold and turbo, they then use either a v-band or 4 bolt joint between the turbo and downpipe.

 

The advantage of the v-band is that it allows the 2 connected parts to rotate in relation to each other, this is useful on the turbo/downpipe joint as it allows some adjustment when fitting.

 

Thanks again Nic :thumbs:

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I honestly don't know, sorry Scott :)

 

I'm pretty sure you have nailed it bud. With the tubular manifolds the tubby's are rotated 90 degree's so the exhaust housing bolts downwards. With the cast one listed it will bolt on just off horizontal. This would mean the downpipe would be off by the angle of the cast manifold, would need to be custom angled or cut and rotated to fit.

 

Just guessing to all of that but it does make sense :)

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Is it your daily driver Dude? If so if I come down one saturday any chance you could take me out in it? I'm quite interested in getting one after I have other essentials so wouldnt mind seeing hows she goes!

 

No its MacNasties car, you can PM him for his opinion on it, it is now here because he got bored with running .8 bar and has bought larger injectors and an F Con so it will now make a lot more power.

 

My car is a LITTLE more extreme than that!!!!:rolleyes:

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Cracking post bud, quick question.

 

I was planning on doing as much of the conversion as I can. The stumbling block came with the turbo i want (GT35r DBB) as it is water and oil cooled. If i ditch the tubby's and then bolt on the GT35r would i not need to tap new oil & water returns somewhere? I just feel like i would be a bit stuck, if i take it to a garage to get the holes tapped I would need to do it before the single was on there, so I would need to bung up the holes to drive the car back home.

 

I can't really see any way around my problem unless I am missing something?

 

Only reason I want the 2k ECU is because I want the solaris. Not looking to save there really as I was planning on getting it regardless of going single or not. I know its WAY more than I need, I just want it :)

 

Might have just saved me a good few bob on the manifold though :D

 

Single Necessity's:

Tubby Kit - Approx £3.5K (Includes £1000 manifold)

ECU - £300-£1000

Clutch - £400

Mapping - £500

Injectors - £400-£600

Walbro Fuel Pump - £100

Plugs - £80-£150

 

Safeguards:

Water Pump (optional) - £123

Oil Pump (Optional) - £130

Fuel Filter - £30

Front & Rear Crank Seal (Optional) - £30

Belts - £200

Fluids - £150

 

Labour - £0 - £1.5k

 

I've no doubt missed loads but it does add up. I can see where you could save yourself 1 or 2k but my build looks to be approx £8k, approx £7k in parts.

 

You will prob use one of the oil feeds from the block, the other will be blanked off with a bolt and copper washer, the water lines are easy you just ere route from existing pipework, I use the one on the back of the water pump and the one at the back of the engine on the stainless pipe next to the big hose that goes to the heater. Then block the 2 on the ally top hose mount.

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You will prob use one of the oil feeds from the block, the other will be blanked off with a bolt and copper washer, the water lines are easy you just ere route from existing pipework, I use the one on the back of the water pump and the one at the back of the engine on the stainless pipe next to the big hose that goes to the heater. Then block the 2 on the ally top hose mount.

 

Ahh so the feeds i require are already there and by removing the stock setup it free's them up, leaving a couple of extra's that need to be plugged.

 

Thats handy then :D

 

Might be able to give it a go afterall, cheers Dude :)

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The talk of putting a single turbo on an otherwise stock fuelled and ECU'd car makes me nervous. Smarty already linked my post in another thread about why I think it's a bad idea. I will stand by that no matter who is disagreeing with me until I see proof that I'm wrong.

 

Now the interesting thing is, the AFR bods have the opportunity to provide this proof :) Plumb in a fields-harnessed E-Manage to a stock setup + single turbo, and with a blank map it'll make no adjustments at all but will act as a very good datalogger. Then go around and drive it under a variety of conditions, especially part throttle or

 

I'd gladly give my time to look at the logs, other people could as well to avoid my potential bias, and I'll be the first one to say "I'm wrong" or "hey, it's not as bad as I thought". Or it might say "crikey, under 4000rpm it runs hideously lean, maybe we should stop this before a customer's engine lets go". All in all, a plan with no drawbacks if you ask me.

 

-Ian

Edited by Ian C
ffs about 1,000 spelling errors (see edit history)
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Yanks have been doing it for a long time, the phr street kit is designed to run on a stock ecu and injectors (550's not 440's) but they do have the advantage of better fuel than us, i think this is where a lot of this info comes from, following them could prove very costly.

 

As Ian says the just below 4000rpm bit would worry me, its before the 2nd turbo has cut in on a stock car, a small single is going to be making a fair amount of power and torque at them revs and 0.8bar boost, sounds risky to me, id save a little more and invest in a ecu and mapping to keep the fueling safe.

Edited by JamieP (see edit history)
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I use the one on the back of the water pump and the one at the back of the engine on the stainless pipe next to the big hose that goes to the heater. Then block the 2 on the ally top hose mount.

 

That's not the best way to promote good coolant flow through the cartridge. You ideally need to feed it from one of the ports on the top elbow and return it to one of the lower ones as Toyota designed.

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We havent fitted anything yet but now the inlet is off its a bit late, we ran it on the dyno for ages and it was perfect, MacNastie seems to have 2 speeds stood still and flat out!!!

 

Like I said it seemed to be perfect if you use a small turbo that flows around the same as the stock twins in TTC I don't see the problem, even the dip where the turbos transition was not noticeable.

 

Remember my old set up was huge turbo and injectors with SAFC and ITC, sometimes the simple ways are the best.

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We havent fitted anything yet but now the inlet is off its a bit late, we ran it on the dyno for ages and it was perfect, MacNastie seems to have 2 speeds stood still and flat out!!!

 

Like I said it seemed to be perfect if you use a small turbo that flows around the same as the stock twins in TTC I don't see the problem, even the dip where the turbos transition was not noticeable.

 

Remember my old set up was huge turbo and injectors with SAFC and ITC, sometimes the simple ways are the best.

 

Well as I pointed out in my post in the other thread, full boost and off boost are the two scenarios that stand the most chance of being OK, especially if full boost is around fuel cut so the stock ECU just sits at 100% duty.

 

Running a small single that flows the same as stock twins in TTC might actually be better than stock twins in TTC as you'll have a proper wastegate and not one that doesn't come into play until 4000rpm is reached (hence the TTC boost spike issue). But you'll still have the underfuelling below 4000rpm. And the pointlessness of a single turbo that gives out 280bhp ;)

 

My original post was, however, in response to you saying these budget singles pull at 0.8bar harder than stockers at 1.4bar, so that's almost double the flow according to the arse-dyno, a whole different ballgame. I know I appear to be harping on about this, but I'd rather some evidence of what the fuelling is like comes out in graph form rather than dustpan-and-brush form. For the good of the punter and the tuner.

 

-Ian

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Yanks have been doing it for a long time, the phr street kit is designed to run on a stock ecu and injectors (550's not 440's) but they do have the advantage of better fuel than us, i think this is where a lot of this info comes from, following them could prove very costly.

 

As Ian says the just below 4000rpm bit would worry me, its before the 2nd turbo has cut in on a stock car, a small single is going to be making a fair amount of power and torque at them revs and 0.8bar boost, sounds risky to me, id save a little more and invest in a ecu and mapping to keep the fueling safe.

 

What about piggy back fuleing, AFR or the like ?

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