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What Sort Of Cost To Go Single?


a98pmalcolm

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The NA-T forum is a good source for info regarding conversions.

 

Can anyone link me, i've searched and searched but i cant find it :search:

 

*Insert witty comment from another member mocking my uselessness with the Search tool.* :p

 

Edit: Found bits and pieces in the end, doesnt seem worth it. Will keep saving for a TT

Edited by SupraDan24 (see edit history)
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I'll be honest i dont think is be willing to pay around £10,000,i'd rather put that 2wards my next car.

 

Well i have bit my tongue long enough and listened to the usuall 10k trotted out by people who still have a TT :p, i dont think anyone on this thread has mentioned the cost really depends on what kind of power you want, 500hp is very easily achieved at way way under the figures bandied about however 600hp + is going to be up in the 10k region.

There are items you really need to spend good money on such as the turbo (around 1k for a 500-550hp) but there are others where you can save, is a £1500 tubular manifold with the potential to make 800+ hp really necesary, the answer is no if you dont intend going over 600hp and it really makes me laugh when people spend this kind of money then only run 550hp when a £300 cast manifold would have given them a torque curve to die for (yes i know "future proofing" :yawn:).

Do you need the latest whizz bang ECU with a total cost of around 2k to run 500hp, the answer again is no, at this power level your still using most of the silky smooth stock ecu and a piggy back is more than adequate.

Granted you will need to ensure all your ancillaries are in good nic (including rad, brakes, suspension, tyres).

The other big saving could be labour, if you know which end of a spanner is which fitting a single turbo system really isn't rocket science :taped:, and there is more than enough info on this forum to help out the "garden shed" mechanic.

So my point is it all depends what power you want and believe me 500- 550hp is pretty damm quick and quicker than 99% of cars on the road.

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Well i have bit my tongue long enough and listened to the usuall 10k trotted out by people who still have a TT :p, i dont think anyone on this thread has mentioned the cost really depends on what kind of power you want, 500hp is very easily achieved at way way under the figures bandied about however 600hp + is going to be up in the 10k region.

There are items you really need to spend good money on such as the turbo (around 1k for a 500-550hp) but there are others where you can save, is a £1500 tubular manifold with the potential to make 800+ hp really necesary, the answer is no if you dont intend going over 600hp and it really makes me laugh when people spend this kind of money then only run 550hp when a £300 cast manifold would have given them a torque curve to die for (yes i know "future proofing" :yawn:).

Do you need the latest whizz bang ECU with a total cost of around 2k to run 500hp, the answer again is no, at this power level your still using most of the silky smooth stock ecu and a piggy back is more than adequate.

Granted you will need to ensure all your ancillaries are in good nic (including rad, brakes, suspension, tyres).

The other big saving could be labour, if you know which end of a spanner is which fitting a single turbo system really isn't rocket science :taped:, and there is more than enough info on this forum to help out the "garden shed" mechanic.

So my point is it all depends what power you want and believe me 500- 550hp is pretty damm quick and quicker than 99% of cars on the road.

 

I've been summing up the costs for single turbo and I have to agree with you here. I budgeted for 4-5k with doing all the work myself except for the mapping (£500.) And yes the Cast log manifolds are a BARGAIN in comparison to the £1k+ tubular manifolds.

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Enlighten me!!!!

 

It hasnt gone bang yet and the car has not been driven particularly easily.

 

Is it your daily driver Dude? If so if I come down one saturday any chance you could take me out in it? I'm quite interested in getting one after I have other essentials so wouldnt mind seeing hows she goes!

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I think I'd like to go single. But I'd only really like to pay upto 4 grand tops to have it all supplied and fitted. Im only after 500ish bhp (limit of the autobox)

 

Other thing that stops me is that my car has done 145k miles, and I worry that bolting a single on, would finish the engine off and ancilaries etc...

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Id also be worried after shelling out all that money and my car wont do the 1/4 quicker than my stock car, running 0.9 bar boost :)

 

Have you thought about going down the weight saving route?

At bpu say 400bhp it works out at 260bhp/ton at a stock weight of 1520kg.

Loose about 150kg (which is my goal) and it will be near 290bhp/ton

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Well i have bit my tongue long enough and listened to the usuall 10k trotted out by people who still have a TT :p, i dont think anyone on this thread has mentioned the cost really depends on what kind of power you want, 500hp is very easily achieved at way way under the figures bandied about however 600hp + is going to be up in the 10k region.

There are items you really need to spend good money on such as the turbo (around 1k for a 500-550hp) but there are others where you can save, is a £1500 tubular manifold with the potential to make 800+ hp really necesary, the answer is no if you dont intend going over 600hp and it really makes me laugh when people spend this kind of money then only run 550hp when a £300 cast manifold would have given them a torque curve to die for (yes i know "future proofing" :yawn:).

Do you need the latest whizz bang ECU with a total cost of around 2k to run 500hp, the answer again is no, at this power level your still using most of the silky smooth stock ecu and a piggy back is more than adequate.

Granted you will need to ensure all your ancillaries are in good nic (including rad, brakes, suspension, tyres).

The other big saving could be labour, if you know which end of a spanner is which fitting a single turbo system really isn't rocket science :taped:, and there is more than enough info on this forum to help out the "garden shed" mechanic.

So my point is it all depends what power you want and believe me 500- 550hp is pretty damm quick and quicker than 99% of cars on the road.

 

Cracking post bud, quick question.

 

I was planning on doing as much of the conversion as I can. The stumbling block came with the turbo i want (GT35r DBB) as it is water and oil cooled. If i ditch the tubby's and then bolt on the GT35r would i not need to tap new oil & water returns somewhere? I just feel like i would be a bit stuck, if i take it to a garage to get the holes tapped I would need to do it before the single was on there, so I would need to bung up the holes to drive the car back home.

 

I can't really see any way around my problem unless I am missing something?

 

Only reason I want the 2k ECU is because I want the solaris. Not looking to save there really as I was planning on getting it regardless of going single or not. I know its WAY more than I need, I just want it :)

 

Might have just saved me a good few bob on the manifold though :D

 

Single Necessity's:

Tubby Kit - Approx £3.5K (Includes £1000 manifold)

ECU - £300-£1000

Clutch - £400

Mapping - £500

Injectors - £400-£600

Walbro Fuel Pump - £100

Plugs - £80-£150

 

Safeguards:

Water Pump (optional) - £123

Oil Pump (Optional) - £130

Fuel Filter - £30

Front & Rear Crank Seal (Optional) - £30

Belts - £200

Fluids - £150

 

Labour - £0 - £1.5k

 

I've no doubt missed loads but it does add up. I can see where you could save yourself 1 or 2k but my build looks to be approx £8k, approx £7k in parts.

Edited by Scott (see edit history)
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Any ideas how you can shed 150kg?

 

Depends what you use the car for. If its a daily driver then its probably not recommended, but a few ideas that i can think of at the moment are...

 

-Removal or rear windscreen wiper and motor

-Removal of rear seats and seat belts

-Removal of stock front seats and replaced with lighter ones

-Removal of spare wheel, jack, tool kit.

-Lighter battery (possibly relocate to the boot to improve weight distribution.

-Lighter alloy wheels

-Removal of cd player and speakers

-Removal of A/C Pump (weighs a fair old bit)

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