A.E.M. in N/A.

[Chris Wilson]

I think you should meet up with a couple of independent club members, have a fill up to the brim of the tank, drive 150 miles, fill it up again and have independent verification of the MPG. Then the talk can stop and you can sell the technology and retire

[David P]

Efficiency, efficiency, efficiency and effeciency.

 

1. Let as much cold air in as I can.

2. Burn as much of it as I can.

3. Reduce as much parasitic drain as I can.

4. Let it out as best I can.

5. Reduce the weight. (haven't gone there, I like my creature comforts)

 

 

Tuning a normally aspirated engine is a matter of attention to detail, all of the little gains add up and compliment each other.

 

I have focussed on 1 to 4, each as a seperate project, and maxed them one at a time.

 

The MaxAir box was the most efficient system I could find, it is designed for the T.T, not the N/A, so needed re-engineering a little to suit. The position of the filter has been changed, and the box is mounted further forwards and taylored to be a perfect fit.

 

I chose to use a 3" filter because that is the size of the throttle body aperture and the K&N Extreme filter is the most efficient filter available in that size.

 

The box is insulated to keep the cold air cold, and the intake over the rad is insulated for the same reason. I have used bubble wrap, and covered it with heating engineers siver tape, it sticks like sh!t to a blanket and the adhesive is for the correct heat range.

 

All I could find available for an induction system, were shiny and poor efforts, so made one to my own spec.

 

Utilizing silicone hoses, a 3" to 4" 90o bend, a 4" to 4" 45o bend and a 4" to 3" 45o bend. Cut 2" off the filter side of the centre section, and using a slip of 4" ali pipe as a temporary internal support, bonded the pieces together with a special silicone adhesive, then over wrapped the joins with silicone hose repair tape, applied 4" heat shrink over the top, then removed the ali slips from the inside. The 2" piece was then cut into 2 1" pieces and bonded onto the front of the 'slug', with a piece of 3" ali bonded into the end, gives a simple yet efficient mounting for both filter and box. The whole thing is then bubble wrapped, bound with the boiler tape and mounted with a couple of Turbo hose clamps.

 

This system baloons to 4" internal smooth bore and gives a noticable increase in the bottom end torque.

[David P]

Forgot to press 'upload'

Edited December 22, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[Tricky-Ricky]

OK you have explained that you have improved the intake efficiency from filter to throttle, however you talk about efficiency, have you done anything about flow through the engine? like flowing the inlet and exhaust ports? (although there is little to be gained here)

 

Bigger valves, different cams ( and yes i know about overlap etc) but it is a way of achieving better flow/efficiency,

being just an air pump, the engine is only as efficient as the amount of air it can move.

 

However having said that, its a given conclusion that if you can get it to pump more air, you therefore have to supply more fuel, (which is where your theory falls down) as i mentioned before the STD ECU is simply not capable of supplying much more fuel, which also compounds the fuel consumption theory.

( in the same vain the ECU cannot supply significantly less fuel due to its settings and maps)

 

If you improve the pumping ability of the engine (efficiency) and then supply less fuel you not only loose power, you also compromise it by overheating the charge temps, which just compounds the problems.

So unless my logic is totally to cock, fuel consumption will decline no matter what.

[David P]

The throttle body is taper reamed from inlet to just short of the butterfly to ram the air, and the rear side gasket matched to the Y section. The water heating hose has been isolated with a gas tap, this keeps the body cooler, yet leaves the option to open it up should it freeze one cold morning, and the centre section of the rockers is insulated using a piece of the under bonnet mat removed when fitting the snorkel, wrapped in the silver tape to keep heat away from same. The plug covers have been vented to prevent a heat build up damaging the H.T. leads and a U.K. bonnet scoop fitted with a modified snorkel to direct cold air onto the throttle body and inlet manifold.

 

The Y branch is gasket matched, re-profiled inside to straighten out the bends a little and given a good rounding up and rough polish, with the AIT sensor re-positioned in the vacuum eddy out of the air flow.

 

The 2 to 6 knuckle has been gasket matched at both ends, and given a re-profile inside including straightening out the inneficient air feed to cylinders 1 and 6. I have chosen to keep to the over the engine system, because this longer draw gives more torque than changing to a stubby crossflow.

 

Although there is still room for improvement, and at some time in the future, would like to build a completely new system if I could find someone locally who could weld aluminium.

 

I plan to increase the ventilation further to the fuel rail and under the knuckle section, and also the knuckle face. The cooler these surfaces are kept, the cooler the inducted air.

Edited December 22, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

T.R.

 

S.T.F.U. and let me finish before you start throwing well practiced short sharp negatives.

Edited December 18, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[Scott]

Subscribed.

[Thorin]

T.R.

 

S.T.F.U. and let me finish before you start thowing well practiced short sharp negatives.

 

I think you need to wind your neck in a little sir...

[Kirk]

ladies!!! let the man continue.

I myself am highly critical of the methods used here but ill hold my comments till the end.

[Tricky-Ricky]

T.R.

 

S.T.F.U. and let me finish before you start thowing well practiced short sharp negatives.

 

Throwing well practised short sharp negatives, hmm! to most people they are justifiable technical questions.

 

Besides i thought this was a forum where views and questions where allowed, arrogance is not a endearing quality:rolleyes:

 

Sorry but so far you have not shown anything in particular that will make such a big difference in either power or MPG, and you continue to ignore any questions to technically explain your reasons for the believing it makes a difference.

 

So i will not comment again until you finish your catalogue, but i surmise that others besides me will still require a sensible explanation of your mods, which you are still not supplying.

[Wez]

the AIT sensor re-positioned in the vacuum eddy out of the air flow.

 

Why have you moved the Air Intake Temp sensor out of the air flow?

[David P]

Exhaust.

 

I have used an Autobahn88 manifold, what a F job, it didn’t line up with either the ports or the studs, and took me a day to re-engineer it to fit. This is thermal wrapped because hot gasses evacuate more efficiently and it keeps some heat out from under the bonnet.

There is an AEM EGT sensor in the Y, and the wires are ready to connect to the AEM ECU when installed. The OEM sensor is still connected to the loom and tucked behind the radio.

 

I admit that I haven’t learned what this OEM sensor was actually reading and purpose served, and would be pleased for someone to inform me?

 

This is also heat shielded to keep as much radiated heat as possible away from the throttle body and intake plenum. Nevertheless, I plan to add a second layer of wrap, and to extend the shield fore and aft.

 

This ends up exiting at 3”, and is connected to a 3” Bltiz decat midpipe. This is also thermal wrapped to keep the gasses moving and hot, because the cat is positioned at the front of the cat back system.

 

The cat is a 200 core competition item, which is more efficient than the pair of standard 400’s, yet keeps me emissions street legal. There is an AEM UEGO wideband sensor fitted into the front of this, which gives me a useful gauge and is ready to be connected into the ECU. The exhaust system is an HKS silent power, however, on an N/A, silent it was not, It was so loud my fillings were in danger of falling out. J

 

To rectify this without reducing flow, I incorporated 2 Morroso racing spiral mufflers. These I recommend highly to anyone wishing to reduce their pipe noise, each one knocks off 7 db. After the HKS resonator, the system ends with an Apexi spring loaded tail silencer. This is designed to knock off 7db for track day cars on route to track. However, in this application it serves another purpose too.

 

It is proven that N/A’s produce the best bottom end torque with a 2.5” system, and the most hp with a 3” system and usually end up compromising with a 2.75”

However, with this system the valve stays closed at low revs, giving the bottom end power, yet opens up when under load and lets the horses out. A bit like having your cake, and eating it too.

Edited December 22, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[JamieP]

I as others find the mpg hard to believe but i dont see why you would want to lie and either way i could not care less tbh what mpg it makes so i will give you the benefit of the doubt, well done:)

 

What does interest me is the claims of TT power 280-300bhp from a na with minimal mods, (stock engine i gather?) when is the car to be finished? if you want people to believe the dyno print then go to Surrey rolling road, otherwise you will go through all this again, good luck with it.

Edited December 18, 2009 by JamieP (see edit history)

[David P]

Wez,

 

The new position of the AIT gives a truer reading, and does not interfere with the air flow. At this time I have gone back to the OEM, because the AEM AIT was causing it to run way to lean. Likewise with the MAP sensor, the AEM caused it to be way too rich. These will be reconnected on AEM and 'roller day'.

[David P]

Jamie,

 

I am limited to where I can go to have it set up, because it is an auto remember. But interested to see what I can do with the Supra stick VV4.

 

http://www.latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html

Edited December 18, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

Ignition.

 

HKS earth kit.

The difference these simple earth wires make to the engine is quite amazing, starts at a touch, rock steady tickover, better throttle response and even stops quicker too, the engine just sounds and feels 'stronger', I was amazed.

 

HKS Twin Power distributer version, the better the spark the better.

 

MSD Blaster SVC II coil. this is the only uprated coil that I could find that was compatible with the Toyota ohms. Stronger spark again.

 

Nology Hot Wires, stronger spark again.

 

NGK Iridium plugs, better spark again.

 

Which is better and best at what I don't know, but I have thrown everything at it to max the best possible spark.

 

Timing, I honestly don't know, today I was expecting the Draper strobe to arrive, but you can se the state of the roads here in the Supra shot above. At this time it has been set by ear and experience. I have been playing these games for 38 years remember. However, I am looking forwards to giving this a number. However, the Toyota spec is rather 'loose' at 8 to 12o before TDC!

 

Short on snaps of these because only went on a day or 3 ago, and not going out there to take pics today.

 

Edited December 22, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[paul mac]

T.R.

 

S.T.F.U. and let me finish before you start thowing well practiced short sharp negatives.

 

i dont know which other forums you frequent mate but i find this post abusive and displaying a very immature attitude, posting like this will not win you any friends and may even lead to infraction points, people have been civil with you, if you want respect and be taken seriously i suggest you dont post like this again

[David P]

TR,

 

I did not mean to offend, if you hadn't noticed, I have had to be very tolerant of comments made to me on here, am I the only one not allowed a sense of humour?

 

I am pressing buttons here as fast as I can to try and answer questions, I will come back and answer more when done.

 

Just trying to keep the info together so it is not lost over a spread of pages.

 

Thank you

[JamieP]

Jamie,

 

I am limited to where I can go to have it set up, because it is an auto remember. But interested to see what I can do with the Supra stick VV4.

 

SRR can do auto just fine, but as said before if you are still going standalone AEM ems then you will have trouble with the auto change, thought of going with a piggyback AEM fic? that way the auto box wont be effected.

[David P]

That's 1 of the reasons why I am fitting a SSV4 ECU to control the trans, then the AEM ECU won't even have to think about it.

[JamieP]

That's 1 of the reasons why I am fitting a SSV4 ECU to control the trans, then the AEM ECU won't even have to think about it.

 

I had to google that, that on top of the price of the AEM is going to add up, surely better to go piggyback no?

[Wez]

the AEM AIT was causing it to run way to lean. Likewise with the MAP sensor, the AEM caused it to be way too rich. These will be reconnected on AEM and 'roller day'.

 

The reason being that the stock ECU is not calibrated for these sensors, I imagine it had a real fit with either of these changed for none original parts.

[David P]

Parasitic loss.

 

I have freed up as much power as possible by reducing the power drain where I can.

 

Meziere water pump, this was a real pain in the butt to fit. I had checked the OEM gasket, but the Toyota label on the plastic bag was covering a few of the bolt holes. By the time I found out, the engine was stripped, so re-engineered the thing to fit.

 

Mishimota shroud and twin electric fans.

 

Unorthodox Racing 20% underdrive crank pulley and ali accessory pulleys.

 

The jury is still out re. the crank pulley, but not going back to OEM, because had to heat the crank bolt to get it out, there are several reports of OEM pulleys throwing themselves apart and don't fancy that. Maybe will change to an after market dampened pulley, looking into that one.

 

TTC idler pulley.

This item runs on the 'wonk' and has been replaced by the manufacturer. Will change it when I take off the front end to fit Active spoiler, oil coolers rad etc.

 

Likewise with the alternator pulley, cant undo the nut without a hammer gun, will change too when rad is out, will have room for the gun then .

 

Unorthodox Adjustable Cam Pulleys.

 

At this time not planning to change the cams, that would be around £1000 for the privalige to use more fuel and loose some bottom end, so playing with retiming the stock cams. U.R. claim around 10bhp gain, yet have read reports that claim up to 20?

 

As much as we all love our Toyota's, they are still a production vehicle and built to a price and schedule.

 

Turbo'd motors can 'simply' be turned up to gain power, and these inneficiencies are not so noticable, however, normally aspirated engines are responsive to these attentions to detail, that's why it is called engine 'tuning'.

 

Each and every one of these modifications are without doubt an improvement on the production items, and they all add up.

 

Here is a list that is a combination of manufacturers claims and wishfull guesses, there are some that are a bit 'tea from China' but without doubt I have so far gained X amount of power from somewhere, and I can assure you that I am even more interested than you to put a number in the box.

 

This list is not a claim, but merely a pointer as to where some of this gained efficiency and power could be coming from.

 

The magic number at the bottom is without doubt greater than reallity, but provides some numbers to debate. It would be great to fit these items one at a time and in different orders and combinations and to dyno it each and every time, but that is not possible.

 

Max air box 3

K&N 3

Induction plenum 3

Flowed manifold 1

X manifold 18

Decat pipe 5

Exhaust system 10

Pulleys and idler 5

Electric fans and pump 13

Cam gears 10

Sensors 3

AEM ECU 10

Nology leads 10

HKS Twin power 2

MSD Blaster 11 coil 2

Insulations & ventilation 2

Iridium plugs 2

Fuel regulator 3

Ring earth 5

 

Total 119

 

Without doubt, the car is now very different to drive, when motorway cruising at 70mph the throttle is only depressed around 1/8th" and without cruise control it is quite difficult to maintain. Because of this I cannot drive motorways in trainers and wear my army boots which just stay where you plonk them without having to flex my ankle.

 

I hope that this thesis has answered a few of your questions.

Edited December 22, 2009 by David P (see edit history)

[Gaz6002]

All this talk of efficiency and you're modding an NA engine for power. Ironic.

[David P]

Wez,

 

Yes exactly, but in the absence of advice worked that out myself.

No prob though, the new sensors and wiring are in situ waiting for the big day.

 

Jamie,

 

I have been frugally collecting these parts over time at the right price, many of them used, several from on here, and Supraforum, and Fleabay and Keron.

 

The only items remaining on my list to get, are an engine oil cooler kit and a pair of TRD anti roll bars.

Edited December 18, 2009 by David P (see edit history)