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just been fishtailing; please help me re: tyres...!


IceMan

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Just got my first fishtail experience, 2 shakes each way. Only doing a low speed over a greasy slightly off-camber corner and wondered what the fcuk was going on! The SLIP CONT came on and wouldn't go off again...

 

Anyway, I think this may be primarily related to acceleration and a greasy/muddy surface, but I do have some improtant tyre questions if someone can supply me with help...

 

I'm currently running Japanese Michelin Pilot SX tyres all round (they say Tubeless, Radial X and MXX3 on them too for info). These are fitted to 18" Manaray Vertec VR5 gold alloys.

 

My questions are:

 

1. Are Japanese tyres poor in UK conditions? My mates tell me that they are made to work in a hotter climate and offer less grip over here - any truth to this?

 

2. What should the pressures be on the tyres? They're a bit screwed up at the moment...

 

Front: F235/40 ZR18 (left = 26.0, right = 34.0) - yeah, I know!

Rear: F265/35 ZR18 (left = 30.5, right = 31.5)

 

3. I had the car derestricted the other day and I'm wondering if the power steering might or might not be out? Would this help fishtails to occur? How can I check it?

 

cheers for any advice/info!

 

Ice

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Originally posted by IceMan

Just got my first fishtail experience, 2 shakes each way. Only doing a low speed over a greasy slightly off-camber corner and wondered what the fcuk was going on! The SLIP CONT came on and wouldn't go off again...

 

Anyway, I think this may be primarily related to acceleration and a greasy/muddy surface, but I do have some improtant tyre questions if someone can supply me with help...

 

I'm currently running Japanese Michelin Pilot SX tyres all round (they say Tubeless, Radial X and MXX3 on them too for info). These are fitted to 18" Manaray Vertec VR5 gold alloys.

 

My questions are:

 

1. Are Japanese tyres poor in UK conditions? My mates tell me that they are made to work in a hotter climate and offer less grip over here - any truth to this?

 

Dunno

 

2. What should the pressures be on the tyres? They're a bit screwed up at the moment...

 

Front: F235/40 ZR18 (left = 26.0, right = 34.0) - yeah, I know!

Rear: F265/35 ZR18 (left = 30.5, right = 31.5)

 

Jesus! Sort em out quick. I have 36 F and 34 R PER PAIR!

 

3. I had the car derestricted the other day and I'm wondering if the power steering might or might not be out? Would this help fishtails to occur? How can I check it?

 

Doubtful cause of fishtailing

 

cheers for any advice/info!

 

Ice

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1: Sort your tyre pressures out NOW!!!

You should never have more than 1psi differential between left and right.

ALWAYS keep a close check on them. Check monthly.

 

2: Decent tyres will help of course. A softer compound tyre.

 

I use Pirelli Pzero Rosso. Buy they are expensive.

 

285*30*18 were £200 each, discounted, (normally £240) gives you a guide.

 

There are others.

 

3: Fit the RACELOGIC traction control system.

 

It's top notch. Never expect the Toyota system to be anything more than crap. In my opinion.

 

Pete

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4. Learn how to drive it :p

 

Seriously though, nothing's going to save you if you stamp on the gas round a corner or don't straighten up after you've applied opposite lock.

 

There are loads of good websites about car handling. Reading some of those is a good second step (after sorting out the tyre pressures!)

 

Physics of racing...

http://phors.locost7.info/contents.htm

 

James.

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Originally posted by IceMan

Justin, what size/type of tyres are yours?

 

Ice

 

R17's

 

Front 235 45

Rear 255 / 40

 

Goodyear EAGLE F1 GSD-3 (£119 inc VAT & Delivery for each rear)

 

Very good grippy tyres with nice tread pattern. I was launching on a soaking wet airstrip on Sunday with 70mph winds and they stuck to the track nicely. After the runs I was deliberately trying to do some drifting round the wet bend and found it harder than I expected as the grip was very good.

 

Cheers

Justin

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Been there and done that.

 

Stock jap TC has two levels of cut: mild where the TC light flashes and engine power is reduce momentarily and bloody awful when the light stays on and the power dies for what seems like ages. You need to turn TC off and on to re set it.

 

It is useless at best and at worst very dangerous.

 

Turn it off, get your tyres sorted and consider RLTC.

 

Take care too, don’t want you added to the list of totalled my car threads

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it's okay, I drove like a granny since :-)

 

I pumpted the tyres to 36 front, 34 rear as seems to be most peoples preference. Thing is I live down a bumpy track and I wonder if the tyres should maybe be lower pressure to take the daily rumble to and from work?

 

Also the outside left front tyre has some cracking in the tyre wall which another thread says is bad. My mates keep telling me that the construction of Jap tyres isn't good enough for the UK too and that I should change them.

 

I'm considering Goodyear F1's as they seem to have a good rap. Where's cheap to buy them/how cheap do they go (based on my tyre sizes I mentioned above)?

 

as for traction control, currently I prefer it to do something rather than have me spinning like a top... I don't drive on overly busy roads so any traction control speed drop isn't a major worry. Maybe I'll do Race Logic later on...

 

Otherwise cheers for the help guys! Now I just gotta sort out the annoying rattle from the boot: suspects are the loose boot trim and the infamous boot stoppers...

 

Ice

 

P.S. I own hundreds of racing games and so I instinctively reacted to the wobble - cheers go out to Grand Prix Legends/rally games etc...!

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The point people are making is that the stock TC is so slow to react that you can easily have spun into a lamp post before the computer realises anything is wrong (ask me how I know!).

 

I just keep the revs below 3k when I'm cornering in the wet, well out of the turbocharged fun zone :)

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Originally posted by Adam Wootten

The point people are making is that the stock TC is so slow to react that you can easily have spun into a lamp post before the computer realises anything is wrong (ask me how I know!).

 

And there is the other side to the coin, pull out of a junction, TC goes into 'total slap on wrist mode' and the Green light stays on....... You have got no power to speak of for about 30 seconds or until you turn TC off or until you accelerate to warp speed when the looming lorry hits you 'cause you can't get out of it's way :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

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Originally posted by IceMan

it's okay, I drove like a granny since :-)

 

I pumpted the tyres to 36 front, 34 rear as seems to be most peoples preference. Thing is I live down a bumpy track and I wonder if the tyres should maybe be lower pressure to take the daily rumble to and from work?

 

Also the outside left front tyre has some cracking in the tyre wall which another thread says is bad. My mates keep telling me that the construction of Jap tyres isn't good enough for the UK too and that I should change them.

 

I'm considering Goodyear F1's as they seem to have a good rap. Where's cheap to buy them/how cheap do they go (based on my tyre sizes I mentioned above)?

 

as for traction control, currently I prefer it to do something rather than have me spinning like a top... I don't drive on overly busy roads so any traction control speed drop isn't a major worry. Maybe I'll do Race Logic later on...

 

Otherwise cheers for the help guys! Now I just gotta sort out the annoying rattle from the boot: suspects are the loose boot trim and the infamous boot stoppers...

 

Ice

 

P.S. I own hundreds of racing games and so I instinctively reacted to the wobble - cheers go out to Grand Prix Legends/rally games etc...!

 

 

I used these people. Delivered to your door mate.

eagles.jpg

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