Gambit Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 Would it make a difference that I've been running with a crack in my intercooler for a year or so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 (edited) Sounds to me like a mass air flow sensor but i havent read everything properly yet. Read it all now and am even more sure its the MAF - just take your car to another memebers house. Fit there MAF, reset your ECU (search for different ways) and give it a go. I recon it will be an immediate fix. With reference your intercooler having a crack, fit one without a crack as you will be losing boot pressure and therefore lots of power. Edited October 10, 2009 by Pig (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 Would it make a difference that I've been running with a crack in my intercooler for a year or so? If the IC is leaking yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 I fixed the ic a while back but I was wondering if the crack could of caused something else to trip out. What does the mass air flow sensor look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 (edited) J specs don`t have air flow meter, only uk`s;)do you have an afr gauge, see what the fueling is doing when the fault occurs.Vvti cars have air flow meter also. Edited October 11, 2009 by bignum (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 J specs don`t have air flow meter, only uk`s;)do you have an afr gauge, see what the fueling is doing when the fault occurs.Vvti cars have air flow meter also. Oh Prob wont be that then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Carl0s is suffering similar problems. Quite a few tips in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Are the brakes binding? If you have Jap spec calipers this could be a likely cause, and they free off when hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 It can't be the breaks Chris it has to be engine side. The slowing down you could put to brakes but it's not that kind of slowing. It's more like what I had with an old car when the piston seized, like being in a manual in gear and the engine dies, it's that kind of slowing up, then the rev clock climbs 1 digit and it carries on fine. Also if you accelerate reasonably firm up to about 40 and then ease of a touch you can get a physical lurch (lick dabbing the break pedal firmly) and a kind of miss fire down the exhaust. At the point when it lurches it goes quiet, it's like instant fuel cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 I'm still thinking the TPS is a culprit. If you're at 40 like you say, then ease off the accelerator slowly, not fully lifting off, but slowly closing the throttle as the car slows, is there a specific point on the throttle travel that the fault occurs? There are instructions on here somewhere of how to test the TPS with a multimeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 Sounds interesting, what's the TPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Has it got an aftermarket exhaust? If so check the baffles or the stuffing in the silencer box haven't come loose. A torch up the tailpipe (oooh err, Mrs.) might show a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Sounds interesting, what's the TPS? Throttle position sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Luigi Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Have you put a heavier grade of oil in the engine recently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 Has it got an aftermarket exhaust? If so check the baffles or the stuffing in the silencer box haven't come loose. A torch up the tailpipe (oooh err, Mrs.) might show a problem. Yes, it has your dc pipes and nur spec. Lol, I was just about to go and check this; the cars in the body shop in a different town.... Throttle position sensor. Is there a way to check this? Have you put a heavier grade of oil in the engine recently? Nope, running on Castrol semi skimmed as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 I'd have a look at the back box, had this on a Volvo a month ago, and several Jap cars with funny exhausts on them. Just a guess though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 I'd have a look at the back box, had this on a Volvo a month ago, and several Jap cars with funny exhausts on them. Just a guess though The only issue with the blocked exhause sytem idea I have is wouldn't I have the issue regardless of weather the car is cold or hot, as I only have the problem when engine temp is cold? I dunno; I still keep thinking cold running (choke) mixture issue.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 If it's not the exhaust you could just pop a known good water temp sesnor on and see what happens. Make sure you change the sensor the ecu reads, not the temp gauge one! The ECU one has two wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 I'll check the exhaust tomorrow when I get the car back after that I think I'll have to look into the water sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 (edited) Well I have the car back and the exhaust is clear so I think the water temp sensor is next to look at. Don't suppose anyone has a Mr. T praice and part number? This sensor; would it be listed as "sensor, water temperature (for E.F.I.)" on the EPC? Edited October 14, 2009 by Gambit (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 Is there a way of checking this water temp sensor with a vault meter, or do I have to go buy a new one? Can it be cleaned? Just for a pointer. If I hold my foot to the floor, when the auto box shifts from 2nd to third I get a cloud puff from the exhaust, I'm thinking it's fuel.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Well I bought one from Mr. T and fitted today...... Only time will tell. price is about £42, incase anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tayousei Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I hope you find the problem because I have the exact identical issue. Feels like stuttering at low speeds accelerating ONLY upon startup until it heats up (around 2-3km of driving.) Also if flooring it, the problem is overcome around the time the 2nd turbo comes on, though I'm afraid to floor it when it's stuttering like that at BPU. My car also is in need of new valve stem seals. I figured maybe it was the oil causing the stuttering, but kinda doubtful. I know it's not normal because my friend's j-spec runs fine. Mine is a USDM, so perhaps bad MAFS as has been suggested but I don't have another one to swap out and test with The important thing to remember here is that it only stutters when cold, so I don't see how TPS would affect it. I haven't figured mine out yet or had time to fix Good luck Gambit! Please post when fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 If you have a US / Euro model car check the air flow metering unit isn't in the wrong way round, there's an air flow arrow on them, and they WILL go together backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Well an update. Having changed the water temp sensor I can now say, it wasn't that at fault. What now.... The car starts to come to life pretty much as soon as the water temp needle rises out of the negative. Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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