HJM Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Have followed the excellent pictorial guides to remove the rear shock absorber, but I am struggling to actually remove the existing Bilstein shocker which is on a standard spring. I have used spring compressor clamps and the three bolts in the boot have been undone.. When I knocked out and removed the bottom securing bolt from the 'U' shaped bracket at the end of the shocker,the bracket simply slid down the rear suspension arm (outwards) and I can't get the hub assembly to drop at all. I have tried jacking the other side of the car but to no affect. Any ideas how to get the hub assembly to drop and hence allow the shocker to be removed ??? Thanks H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Have you got the entire rear of the car in the air? If you have the opposite wheel on the ground, the anti roll bar (assuming you still have the links in place) will be pushing this side upwards. I found that I didn't need to undo the ARB links like it says in the service manual. However I did need to put my entire weight on the hub to force it down far enough to move the bottom of the damper over the suspension arm. There seems to be a knack to getting the damper at the right angle for removal. Try also compressing the damper with your hands as you move it over, it will have a natural tendancy to extend even with the spring compressed. Maybe try some cushioning between you and the hub / brake disk while you're pushing it down - I ended up with some very interesting marks on my chest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Is it not far easier to just remove the assembly and take it apart out of the car? Thats what i did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Are the spring clamps tight enough? My Tein coilovers had plenty room for removal once I had the clamps on then but then again they are probably shorter than your ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the advice Yes car was jacked up both sides. ARB links still in place - tried to undo one as the whole hub assembly looks like its being prevented from dropping by it. However after a few turns of the nut the extended washer lug (other side of bracket)which I assume is designed to prevent rotation (like having spanners either end of a bolt) just keeps turning - tried putting a spanner and then a screwdriver under it to stop the rotation, but to no avail How do you undo these damn things ??!?!?!? Sounds like I need to get a mate to come and help me and then we can attack it with some brute force and ignorance. Anyone else got any other suggestions / experiences ??? Edited September 22, 2009 by HJM (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Shouldn't need to to touch ARBs or anything like that.. As has been said.. There are the three nuts on top by the turret and then a bolt that connects the damper to the lower arms, pull that out. Put a bit of weight on the hub and the entire damper and spring assembly should pull out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Is it not far easier to just remove the assembly and take it apart out of the car? Thats what i did. May have to resort to that, but the bolts/nuts undone so far were hard work as obviously not touched for years. If I remove the whole lot - I reckon it could take a very long time !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Are the spring clamps tight enough? My Tein coilovers had plenty room for removal once I had the clamps on then but then again they are probably shorter than your ones. Got the clamps turned down a fair way - enough to get the top of the spring of the underside of the arch by a few millimetres - I could try more turns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Shouldn't need to to touch ARBs or anything like that.. As has been said.. There are the three nuts on top by the turret and then a bolt that connects the damper to the lower arms, pull that out. Put a bit of weight on the hub and the entire damper and spring assembly should pull out. As above, I have already undone and removed all of these and did try pushing down with some weight on the hub. Either springing back, although I felt virtually no movement or not exerting enough pressure. Hence, think its best to get a mate to help push down the hub and I can hopefully extract the shocker and spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 (edited) Shouldn't need to to touch ARBs or anything like that.. As has been said.. There are the three nuts on top by the turret and then a bolt that connects the damper to the lower arms, pull that out. Put a bit of weight on the hub and the entire damper and spring assembly should pull out. Its easy. the worst thing you can do is split the damper whilst its on the car, will be a right pain getting it off, its only a 15minute job to take it off as one whole piece. Its much easier with two people, one to put some weight on the hub, and the other to coax the damper out. Edited September 22, 2009 by Marty (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTRickeh Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Got the clamps turned down a fair way - enough to get the top of the spring of the underside of the arch by a few millimetres - I could try more turns. Hmm sounds like it's compressed enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 May have to resort to that, but the bolts/nuts undone so far were hard work as obviously not touched for years. If I remove the whole lot - I reckon it could take a very long time !!! I'm not following you here. To remove the rear strut i 1. Jacked up the side i wanted to remove (to keep the ARB going in the direction i wanted it to) 2. Removed the wheel but put the nuts back on to hold the disc in place 2. loosened off the top 3 nuts (kept them on though). 3. Removed the pin holding the bottom of the strut 4. Pushed down on the disc/hub assy until the strut cleared the location then moved it a little to the side so that it missed (the nuts still being attached at the top will mean the strut doesn't go with the assy but they must be loose enough so that you can move the strut to the side. 5. Take the weight off of the disc/hub assy being careful of where the strut rests. 6. Loosen off the top 3 nuts 7. Remove strut In total you will have 4 nuts and 1 pin washer. I didn't need to loosen anything else to do the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecoup Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 did mine not so long back it is fair easier and quicker to remove the unit from the car as a whole and swap bits on the bench you can lever the hub down to remove unit with out spring compressers i did and had otherside of car sat on floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Oh yeah, To strip the strut once out of the car i 1. Loosened off the main nut holding the strut to the topmount (Bit of a pain to get it to loosen without rotating). Make sure you only loosen it a turn or so. 2. Compressed the spring evenly on both sides till i could rotate the spring in the strut (means no pressure is on the topmount) 3. Loosen off the topmount nut. 4. Remove spring & gently ease off spring compressors and your done... or just swap the unit out while in situ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Thanks for the replies, but I have done all the necessary above. Definitely looks like I need someone to help me to push down the hub whilst I get in there and remove the shock/spring/top mount assembly in one go. I think overall my problem is that the hub will not freely drop, unlike other cars which look sick on a post lift with all four wheels dropping downwards. I had a sneaking suspicion that it all looked too easy in the guides and hence I thought I could do it on my own - obviously a big mistake. Should have the necessary assistance on sunday so fingers crossed we can make the car surrender to our will Thanks H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimojameso Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Defo need two people to do this mate. Get a friend to help. I grabbed my neighbour when i did mine. If you were closer i'd help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I did the rears on my own, the fronts i needed someone to move the strut away. With the rears i put my full weight on the hub assy to lever it down and then reach under to move it. Did you not say you jacked up both sides? If so this is where you are going wrong IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Cheers guys for all the info/experiences. Makes me feel pretty confident I should be able to sort this with some assistance. Although a mechanic I spoke to this morning suggested jacking both sides and releasing both shockers. He also said best not to use spring compressors for removal and just use them to assist installation of the new shocker away from the car. Fingers crossed I get it sorted sunday - looks like I'll be watching the F1 highlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 If you ring me I'll talk you through how to remove one in ten minutes. Not got time to write a manual here though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDR Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=177475 Front & Rear guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 If you ring me I'll talk you through how to remove one in ten minutes. Not got time to write a manual here though thats it chris, you make the guy feel better now he's spent ages wrestling with it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 Big thanks to Chris for the advice over the phone - top man Will let you know how I get on over the weekend, but hopeful I can now sort it and get my replacement shocks in H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HJM Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Shocks are now in Thanks again to Chris for his advice. Yes you need a ruddy big breaker bar to lever the assembly down and then its pretty plain sailing. H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 I prefer the pie eating method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 No worries, glad it's sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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