dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Intellistart would not work with this though!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Slightly going off topic with this, but isn't the clutch switch deemed to be responsible for the large (by comparison) instances of crank walk that the guys in the US see? My understanding is that with the clutch pedal depressed when you start the car, you're putting extra strain on the crank thrust bearings. Eventually they wear and you're into a bit of a bottom end strip down to repair. I've by-passed the park/neutral switch by joining the wires as Dude suggested. I have also fitted the clutch switch though as it's used to engage the cruise control. (You need a 12 volt feed running through the switch to the C.C. ecu) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Slightly going off topic with this, but isn't the clutch switch deemed to be responsible for the large (by comparison) instances of crank walk that the guys in the US see? My understanding is that with the clutch pedal depressed when you start the car, you're putting extra strain on the crank thrust bearings. Eventually they wear and you're into a bit of a bottom end strip down to repair. I think this is why a lot of the german stuff put their starter inhibiter on the brake pedal now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 The US have a lot of problems, but crank thrust bearing wear is more than likely due to a National habit of riding the clutch, from my fairly limited experience of Americans in manual cars It's not good practice to start a car from cold with the clutch depressed though, as the thrust washers will be fairly free of oil until the engine fires, as they drain down more easily than the shell bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) OK lets get the clutch and man brake pedal in. This is where the master cylinder attaches on the bulkhead, how long this will take depends entirely on how much stuff has been poked thru the grommet that seals the master cyl hole. Rob had loads of wires etc that I have had to move before we can continue, every car will be different. Edited October 30, 2009 by dude (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Here is the view from inside Note that I have removed a 'Tag' of sound deadening just below and to the left of the hole in the bulkhead, this is where the 'foot' of the pedal will bolt to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Now is a good time to take out the old large auto pedal and make some room, also you will need to cut away some sound proofing from around the hole. Look carefully in the pic with the stuff cut away and you will see around the hole there are 2 indents, this is where you need to drill the holes for the master cyl mounting bolts, you do this from inside the car, it is awkward but use the smallest drill you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Once the holes are drilled then place the pedal on the inside of the bulkhead and with you on your back in the footwell get someone to push the master cylinder thru the hole from the engine bay side while you guide the studs and actuating rod into the respective places. Put a 12mm nut on each of the studs coming thru the bulkhead/pedal to hold the pedal assembly in place, DO NOT do these up tight yet, there is a mounting point up the top of the pedal that you MUST use, you will need a 12mm bolt, Robs car has too much stuff in the way for me to get a pic but you will see this on the pedal before you install it. You can now do up the bolt/nuts. Remember the 'foot' at the bottom of the pedal, well you now need to get a drill thru this and the bulkhead and use a nut and bolt to secure this as in the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Replace the brake pedal This is important, you MUST make sure the spacers etc go back in the new pedal as they come out, they are there to stop the pedal binding at the top and giving a smooth action, do not get this wrong!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Now connect the master to the slave, I normally use a braided line instead of the stock hard pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazuk Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Thanks for this write up , its being very handy I have started on mine you make it look easy . Just a quick question do you have to have the whole dash out to get to the master cylinder mounting from the inside of the car? I have the clocks out but I still can not see anything . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Thanks for this write up , its being very handy I have started on mine you make it look easy . Just a quick question do you have to have the whole dash out to get to the master cylinder mounting from the inside of the car? I have the clocks out but I still can not see anything . With anything like this the golden rule is to give yourself room, it may take a little longer but your nerves and knuckles will thank you for it, most of the stuff on the inside of the m.cyl mount is done on your back looking up!!!! Oh er:rolleyes: Make sure the knife is sharp when you cut away the sound proofing and use a small drill. call me if you get stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 well i started mine today! asoon as i started i walked straight into a problem.... the ali cradle that holds the brake pedal on was broken where the brake light switch meets the pedal! how much of a ball ache are the cradles to remove dude and have you got 1 spare?? also in regards to the clutch and MC setup, you know the dowls on the back of the pedal, are they suppose to go through the bulkhead OR do they just sit on the back of the holes where the studs from the MC come through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazuk Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 well i started mine today! asoon as i started i walked straight into a problem.... the ali cradle that holds the brake pedal on was broken where the brake light switch meets the pedal! how much of a ball ache are the cradles to remove dude and have you got 1 spare?? also in regards to the clutch and MC setup, you know the dowls on the back of the pedal, are they suppose to go through the bulkhead OR do they just sit on the back of the holes where the studs from the MC come through? Did mine as well at the weekend , I had to stop /start all that lying underneath the dash made me feel ill :-). The clutch pedal was a right pain I hope I am right but the dowels stay on the inside of the car mine did the top bolt was a right pain ended up doing it up from behind the clocks with a socket on a twisty ext. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Did mine as well at the weekend , I had to stop /start all that lying underneath the dash made me feel ill :-). The clutch pedal was a right pain I hope I am right but the dowels stay on the inside of the car mine did the top bolt was a right pain ended up doing it up from behind the clocks with a socket on a twisty ext. Yes dude thats right the dowel part sits on the inside, its a pain to drill the bulkhead from inside but you can see the 2 reliefs that mark where it needs drilling, you get used to working upside down after a few years of doing it!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 OK just to finish up then, its a case of putting everything back. Now its odds on that you had wires etc going thru the grommet where the master cylinder now sits so you will have to reroute and prob extend these wires, just hope it does not look something like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 By choice I always try and go thru the yellow grommet in the drivers footwell, the easiest way is to pullit into the car and open it up a bit so you can get your wires etc thru into the inner wing, once pushed thru you can fish them out into the engine bay with a hooked piece of wire like a coat hanger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Also time to make sure everything is put together properly, if your conversion did not come with all the rubber gaitors etc then do yourself a favour and buy them, the difference will be amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Try and find someone to lie upside down in the footwell and do the tricky stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Dude, just wanted to add a couple of *really* minor things. The kick down switch appears to have been retained, IMO it's best to replace this with the stopper that comes with the manual cars. The accelrator pedal on the manual is slightly different, The position seems the same, but the ark of the pedal is slightly different. Not sure it would be noticable, but worth mentioing as I'm anal about things like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Just a case of re assembly and thats it Best of luck, take your time and measure twice cut once:search: I will now leave Rob to edit this thread and put it up as a guide, if anyone gets stuck they are more than welcome to PM or call. Much love and good night!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Dude, just wanted to add a couple of *really* minor things. The kick down switch appears to have been retained, IMO it's best to replace this with the stopper that comes with the manual cars. The accelrator pedal on the manual is slightly different, The position seems the same, but the ark of the pedal is slightly different. Not sure it would be noticable, but worth mentioing as I'm anal about things like this I know what you mean dude but most conversions don't come with a acc pedal, if you really want it to be as a 6 spd you will need to change this, I on the other hand did not even change the brake pedal, I just cut it down somewhat and altered the alloy pedal section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Dude, if you have a manual ecu do you still have to chop and rejoin the auto loom or can it just be tied back?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob wild Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Great work Dude! and I can't wait to get it back! I'll tidy this up in the morning and put it in the Guides section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 Great work Dude! and I can't wait to get it back! I'll tidy this up in the morning and put it in the Guides section Lets just hope the propshaft mod holds up OK dude, im sure it will, I will miss the old girl, she is part of the furniture now, lets hope the dyno gets repaired in time to get it mapped, cold start now seems fine dude, im sure you willnotice the difference. Let me know if you want the modded inlet and I will get it polished upfor when it comes back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts