dude Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 OK guys I will post this here and after its run its course maybe the mods can edit out comment etc and leave it in tech as a bit of a guide to any one wanting to try the conversion themselves. try and give me a bit of time to post this up before replying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 This is the order I like to do things, You will need to remember I am using a ramp and have air tools which will make a difference to certain aspects. thanks to Rob Wild for letting us use his car as a photo model!!! first off disconnect the battery and strip the interior, pretty much everything will need to come out, including the dash and instruments, taking the clocks out will make it much easier when you come to bolt the clutch and brake pedal in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 A tetanus injection may come in handy for some peoples cars!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 You will also need to remove the old auto shifter, don't forget to undo all the plugs!!!! and the 4 bolts that hold it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 You will need to remove the pin that connects the lever assembly to the shift rod on the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 This is what you want to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Now your tunnel should look like this You will also need to remove the stereo and any other wiring in that vicinity because we will be cutting a large section of tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Time to move under the car and get it in the air Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 There is no point in strugling to work round things so remove the entire exhaust from the DP back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Much better I prefer to get the diff swap out of the way first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 (edited) Remove the propshaft. NOTE: If you dont have air tools etc you may want to remove the driveshaft bolts as this means using the handbrake if you don't have an assistant. Edited September 10, 2009 by dude (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 You want to leave the rubber donut on the prop. This may be stuck on the nose of the diff so give it a little help with a pry bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Next remove the driveshafts from the side of the diff, because I use an air gun I do not have to 'lock' the wheels in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 The only thing now holding the diff in are the mounting bolts, you have 3 12mm allen bolts at the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 And 2 X 19mm bolts at the front You WILL need to support the diff on a trolley or gearbox jack. It is VERY heavy. Now undo the bolts with the diff supported. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 And lower it down, easing the shafts away from the diff as you lower it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Install is a reversal of removal, put your new shafts in now if you have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 (edited) Now, on to removal of the gear box itself. Before letting the cross member down it easier to remove the converter bolts and a couple of the bellhousing bolts. To remove the converter bolts I prefer to use a swivel head box spanner and a large ratchet and 24mm socket to turn the engine over, you access the bolts just above the rear part of the X member on the front of the gearbox, there are 6 17mm bolts and you will have to carefully feel with your fingers as the engine is turned over for the bolt to come in line Edited September 10, 2009 by dude (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Good time for a ciggy break !!!!!! Like the one im going to have now:eyebrows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 You will find that if you can hit the spanner with a sharp movement the bolts should release, if not let the engine turn back round so the socket is touching the gearbox housing and this should let you free the bolt, repeat for all six bolts. When they are all out the converter should move back into the trans slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Next remove the trans dipstick from the inlet plenum and just pull it up into the engine bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 This is what should come out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Before you let the trans mount go remove these 2 bolts that go in from the front, they are 14mm (on the oily side) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Support the trans and undo the X member from the chassis rails and you will have a clear view of the bellhousing bolts from the rear of the box (you will need a long extension to reach them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Leave the 2 17mm side bolts till last as these are the easiest to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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