Sandy-m2 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 OK this has been covered over and over again, but I'm stuck I have bled the brakes using the traditional 2 man method, starting at the rear passenger and working round. Opening the nipple on pressure and closing it before I let the peddle up. I am getting fluid through and no longer getting any air bubbles. I see no leaks and no splits at any of the points. I have done this with the car off, ignition on and with the engine running but still have a very, very soft pedal. HELP! I have seen people talking about bleeding the ABS unit but can’t actually find out how to do this? I have seen people talking about using Pressure Bleeding kits - where do I get a decent one or where is there a garage in Edinburgh that can do this for me? Sorry to bring up this topic that has been covered so many times but I see no definitive answers. Thanks in advance Sandy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy-m2 Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Anybody? please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Some details here when I had the same issue: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=169608&highlight=brake Although the real cause of the problem was down to a leaking brake line union which I'd missed. There is a process for doing a full system flush which involves bleeding the master cylinder, ABS unit and then the lines, but that shouldn't be necessary unless the master cylinder was empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Open the nipple BEFORE the pedal is pressed at all! If you have rubber brake hoses clamp each one off in turn to see if you can isolate the air to one caliper. If you have seized sliders on J-Spec calipers these will give a soft pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 forget the "two man method" as its prone to error, i find the easiest way is to use the non return valve tube gadget you can get from Halfords they cost about £6, you can pump away to your hearts content without having to constantly keep tightening the nipple (and running the risk of snapping it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveC Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I have seen people talking about bleeding the ABS unit but can’t actually find out how to do this? Here's a Toyota pdf of bleeding the TRAC system. Just make sure the top connection (pin 1) of the three connections is connected to NEGATIVE, and the bottom connection (pin 3) is connected to POSITIVE. If you get it the wrong way around the TRAC system will empty the fluid into the brake reservoir rather than actually bleed the air out of it. I bled the brakes from being completely empty using the 'traditional 2 man method' (without the engine running), then bled the TRAC system using the info in the pdf document. The brakes were great afterwards. Good luck.Trac Control System Bleeding.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy-m2 Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Thanks everyone for your help. I'll give some of these suggestions a go. Homer, if you'd missed a leak were you getting air in the system or was it just pumping fluid? Chris, I have new braided lines, all my calipers moved freely before I put them back on. SteveC thanks a lot I may give this a go, is the trac system the same as the abs system, I thought it was just UK specs had trac? If it is where do I connect the output pipe to. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveC Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 SteveC thanks a lot I may give this a go, is the trac system the same as the abs system, I thought it was just UK specs had trac? If it is where do I connect the output pipe to. Now you mention it, I'm do vaguely recall that the 'TRAC' side of the brakes may only be present on UK, US and Euro cars. Perhaps someone else could verify this? The TRAC system connects into the ABS and operates the rear brakes in conjunction with the standard Toyota traction control. The bleeding process I used on my UK Supra was as in my post above and very straight-forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Now you mention it, I'm do vaguely recall that the 'TRAC' side of the brakes may only be present on UK, US and Euro cars. Perhaps someone else could verify this? The TRAC system connects into the ABS and operates the rear brakes in conjunction with the standard Toyota traction control. The bleeding process I used on my UK Supra was as in my post above and very straight-forward. Thats correct and the reason there`s no trac fuse in mine;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy-m2 Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 If you take the trac fuse out, what does it do to the trac butterfly in the TB. I got a lot more pressure in the peddle (rears were on the wrong way round, now the nipples are at the top). I'm still not happy with how solid it is. I have bled about half a bottle of fluid out the system and there are no bubbles now. Could there still be air in the ABS? Thanks for everyones help S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy-m2 Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Right took it for a slow drive yesterday and the brakes work but are very squish and there is no bite. so going to bleed them all again tonight. if its just fluid coming out how long do you think i should spend at each corner? Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nin73 Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Hi Guys, I had my brakes serviced a few weeks ago, rear calipers stripped down, new oil and seals with Do-luck braided hoses fitted. Thing is they are still terrible. Have noticed the rear right disc is not being fully used and there is loads of travel on the pedal, 6-7 inches, which has not changed since i have had the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 If they are j-Spec brakes the sliders are probably seized up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 If they are j-Spec brakes the sliders are probably seized up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nin73 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 If they are j-Spec brakes the sliders are probably seized up. How come the garage missed this, would this be something they could miss if they have never serviced a Supra before? Can you let me know what will be involved with unseizing the sliders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Brakes are brakes and 90% of the cars on the roads today have sliders. Unseizing sliders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhatB Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Can you let me know what will be involved with unseizing the sliders? Found the passenger side seized on mine the other week, wheel off, remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on to the slider. Slip the caliper off and rest it somewhere without damaging the hose. Then all I did was use a hammer and a big bit of copper. Of course spray it with WD40 if that helps but mine was badly seized it seemed to make no difference There will be of course someone who could tell you how to do it less crudely than me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Ideally fit a new caliper carrier on new pins. I think 3 customers have allowed me to do this in 12 years. Not as exciting as buying a carbon "doodah", and nothing to see for the money Carbon "doodahs" rarely reduce your stopping distance though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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