legendswraith Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Looked around for some tips on this but everyone seems to fit a bung and the wideband as an additional sensor. What i am looking for is a method of wiring in the wideband in the stock position as i have one of Chris Wilsons adaptor plates. The problem is i am trying to minimise the amount of disrution and extra wires in the bay so i was hoping to tap into the existing wires using the old narrowband sensor plug. From the wiring diagram (although its slightly different on mine) there are 4 inputs which are o2 signal out, heater power in, 12v in and ground. My question to those good with wigglies is can i use the stock ground and 12v position from the old o2 connector and tap the narrowband sim into the same wiring? The only problem i can foresee is the old heater input will be left flapping, i know it will generate a code but will it put it into limp mode? Also if those in the know can give me an idea of the colour scheme and what the wires are i'd be much obliged. I have yellow (o2 to ECU ?) White (Heater?) Brown (Ground) Black/Red stripe (12v in?) Bracketed is what i believe it to be but i'd like confirmation for my own peace of mind Cheers Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 i fitted a wideband afr into the second decat fed wires through bung near gear stick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 In order to connect a narrowband simulated output from a wideband controller, you would need to leave the std narrowband in place with the heater wires still connected, and feed the sim signal into the wiring as you you intend, if you don't leave the std sensor heater connected the ECU will will show a fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legendswraith Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 So the fitting i have is useless then lol. Ok thay makes sense i'll get the bung welded into the pipe and just run the wideband seperate. Cheers for the response Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legendswraith Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 Actually out of interest could you put a resistor on the heater wire to trick the ecu into thinking there is a heater there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Actually out of interest could you put a resistor on the heater wire to trick the ecu into thinking there is a heater there? If you know what the original loading is, then i don't see why not, but i haven't tried it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legendswraith Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Looked into getting a resistor fited etc today and our friendly sparky reckons because of the current draw the resistor will be about as big as the lambda and it'll get 'kin hot. So i'll be off to get the bung welded in then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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