hodge Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Well it has now. It's a little concerning really. I posted about it on SF and they seem to think it's fecked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Not a millimeter each way they don't. I'll have to check it when it's cold but it did have play when it was warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossco Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 A mm seems a lot like. The blades will almost be touching the inner wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Not a millimeter each way they don't. I'll have to check it when it's cold but it did have play when it was warm. Could that be the oil being less viscous when it's warm, allowing some play, versus being thicker when it's cold, allowing none? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 The common consensus seems to be the turbo is fine. I seems to be a great bit paranoid dafty lol. I'll be back in Supra mode tomorrow you all will be pleased to hear. She's down at her mothers tomorrow so I'll get up early and get jiggy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Been under the car today, and I have to say XS-power v-bands are utter shite. All 3 were leaking badly. I've tightened the turbo to downpipe one up and managed to seal that. But the other 2 wouldn't seal at all. I've had to cover them in exhaust putty just to get the car MOT'd and to quieten it down a little. I've decided to bite the bullet and go to AAS in Newcastle and have them make me a new cat back. I'm going to use the Super-dragger back box but have the rest made in 4" and have all the v-bands replaced with better stronger ones. I'm going to get the PAS pump bled off tomorrow so the car is actually drivable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ugp Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Is it starting ok from cold? Thats the one thing we couldnt really check on Sunday as it had already warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Yep fires straight away with a little throttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 Been in bleeding the PAS system off today. I've managed to stop it throwing fluid out like a volcano but it's not bled off enough for it to assist the steering yet. I've put 2 full bottles of fluid in it but I think half of that's on the floor to be honest. I've spent an hour or so on it but had to come out the garage as the fumes had me to the point where I was about to pass out. Note to self, when bleeding PAS off have the car facing inwards fo the fumes go out the door. I really do now feel ill. I'll get some more fluid on Monday and have another go but with the car the other was around that is. I've also got an issue with the throttle body. It sticks just before it's fully shut and you have to pull the wheel on the TB to close it correctly. The butterfly in the Veilside TB closes on a angle instead of closing straight up and down so I'm not sure how much material I can take off the inside before it starts leaking air past the butterfly of closed throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Been in bleeding the PAS system off today. I've managed to stop it throwing fluid out like a volcano but it's not bled off enough for it to assist the steering yet. I've put 2 full bottles of fluid in it but I think half of that's on the floor to be honest. I've spent an hour or so on it but had to come out the garage as the fumes had me to the point where I was about to pass out. Note to self, when bleeding PAS off have the car facing inwards fo the fumes go out the door. I really do now feel ill. I'll get some more fluid on Monday and have another go but with the car the other was around that is. I've also got an issue with the throttle body. It sticks just before it's fully shut and you have to pull the wheel on the TB to close it correctly. The butterfly in the Veilside TB closes on a angle instead of closing straight up and down so I'm not sure how much material I can take off the inside before it starts leaking air past the butterfly of closed throttle. I thougt the throttle doesn't need to/shouldn't need to completely close, it's normal for air to go past on closed throttle, the IAC valve is there to pass "extra" air needed (on cold start etc) My throttle certainly passes air when closed, there's a grub screw to adjust what "closed" actually is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 The problem with trying to bleed it is all the time air is in there is just keeps sucking it back round. You have a couple of options. The first is to fill the tank up put the lid on and run the car for about 10 seconds, turn it off and let it settle. Top up and repeat. Or I usually take the belt off the PS pulley and use an impact gun to turn the pulley enough to empty the tank. Do this a couple of times and it fills most of the system with out too much hassle then start the car to finish it off. You dont have to have the lid off to do it, the lid is designed to let the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 I thougt the throttle doesn't need to/shouldn't need to completely close, it's normal for air to go past on closed throttle, the IAC valve is there to pass "extra" air needed (on cold start etc) My throttle certainly passes air when closed, there's a grub screw to adjust what "closed" actually is I'm just going to pull the TB apart Jay I recon. I'll take the butterfly out and polish out the inside at work. It's a little too sticky for my liking. The last thing I want is the throttle to stick open even a little bit, that's for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 The problem with trying to bleed it is all the time air is in there is just keeps sucking it back round. You have a couple of options. The first is to fill the tank up put the lid on and run the car for about 10 seconds, turn it off and let it settle. Top up and repeat. Or I usually take the belt off the PS pulley and use an impact gun to turn the pulley enough to empty the tank. Do this a couple of times and it fills most of the system with out too much hassle then start the car to finish it off. You dont have to have the lid off to do it, the lid is designed to let the air out. Thanks Lee, I'll give those a bash. I'll see if I can get a drill on the end as I don't have an impact gun. As soon as it's bled off and I sort the stick TB I can take her for a run up the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Throttle body is now fixed. No more sticking. Basically the issue was when I measures the bore at the front and the back of the TB there was 27 thou difference with the front being on the larger side. Because of this the butterfly was sticking just before closed throttle. See here the position of the butterfly. Butterfly removed. Now totally stripped down the TB. I then polished out the back of it. Then rebuilt it. Now it moved nice a smoothly. I did notice it moved a lot smoother with the intercooler pipe off. I recon it must have something to do with it being air tight I'd have though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Make sure you locktite those bolts that hold the butterfly in. There was thread on supraforums where one had come apart. Didn't end well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ugp Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 You'll also need to re program the tps on the syvecs mate, it knows closed as partially stuck open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Good news that, John. Can never be too careful with throttle bodies! You should go DBW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Make sure you locktite those bolts that hold the butterfly in. There was thread on supraforums where one had come apart. Didn't end well. Yeah I read that Lee. I'm already on it. You'll also need to re program the tps on the syvecs mate, it knows closed as partially stuck open. I need to give Ryan a buzz anyways. As the car at idle seems to be sitting with an AFR of 10.6 max. Good news that, John. Can never be too careful with throttle bodies! You should go DBW Too much electronics for me Johnny. But you never know what the future holds lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ugp Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Hmmm, rather rich. Is that cold idle mate? What's it sit at once warm? should be looking for mid-high 13's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 Hmmm, rather rich. Is that cold idle mate? What's it sit at once warm? should be looking for mid-high 13's. It's on off the scale rich at cold start, and 10.5 ish once it's warm. I'm going to give Ryan s buzz tomorrow and see what he thinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Got some more done on the car today. Had Ben over to pull a little fuel out of the map after speaking to Ryan. Also after sorting the sticky throttle the TPS needed calibrated. There is an issue with the injector size though. They don't seem to like the fuel being pulled too much as it makes the car missfire. I think further down the line I'll change the injectors to something much more responsive. Also managed to get the PAS bled off, I've managed to dye my hands red with the fluid in the process. Another full day on it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Would you be better maybe giving it another 100-200rpm on the idle, John? As for injectors, I'd go for the ID1000s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Would you be better maybe giving it another 100-200rpm on the idle, John? As for injectors, I'd go for the ID1000s How much will a set of those set me back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Last time I looked, they're about $200 each matey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Those will be 1 of the last things on my list to be honest. I want the exhaust sorting, and the car painted first. There's another few jobs I have in mind before I change them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts