dude Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 It's just Gina be set up for an intercooler spray. When I bought it I was told it needed to be at an angle as it has a tube in the bottle which runs in a diagnal to the rear bottom corner of the bottle. Thats right dude the tube in the bottle runs from the nozzle back and down so the ideal way to mount the bottle is facing forward and at an angle with the hose outlet facing down, this way when you accelerate the pick up tube stays in the N2O as much as poss when the level is low;) as you are only using it to cool the IC I presume you will use CO2 and not nitrous, CO2 is dirt cheap and I don't think the orientation of the bottle matters:eyebrows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 Thats right dude the tube in the bottle runs from the nozzle back and down so the ideal way to mount the bottle is facing forward and at an angle with the hose outlet facing down, this way when you accelerate the pick up tube stays in the N2O as much as poss when the level is low;) as you are only using it to cool the IC I presume you will use CO2 and not nitrous, CO2 is dirt cheap and I don't think the orientation of the bottle matters:eyebrows: Yup just be using CO2 mate. Im not up with the big boys yet;) I think it only cost me a fiver to fill or something like that. I knew the bottle had to be pointing down but never thought about taking into consideration the car accelerating and the effect on the liquid. Cheers for the advice dude. I will definately apply that if i ever step up with you loonatics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 the attention to detail is fantastic ....i wish i had the time ... excellent job .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 the attention to detail is fantastic ....i wish i had the time ... excellent job .. Cheers Michel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 25, 2010 Author Share Posted April 25, 2010 Done some rear arch work today. I removed the lip on the inside of the metal arch and then with a soft hammer I raised the rear arch height by about an inch to give me plenty of clearence for the wheels and the car squatting of course:eyebrows: After i got the arch as high as I want it it was a case of testing the TRD rear quarter panel against the car, trimming back the metal arch so it fit nice and snug against the kit. Eventually I ended up with this. When i was happy with the fit, I decided it would be a good idea to underseal as much as I possably could. I did all inside the inner arch, the lip id just made and to be fair everything else that was covered by the kit. To be fair you cant be too careful and the more underseal I use the better for me really. So this is where we are so far. Hopefully ill get the other arch done today aswell so I can start looking at fitting the TRD rear quarters permently tomorrow. Ive also been trying to get my head round fitting this clutch, with not a great deal of success to be totally honest. Because its such a big stiff clutch the fork and thrust bearing needs to be BLOODY HUGE and sticks out the side of the inspection cover on the gearbox. The way its designed the slave cylinder required to be fitted on the oposite way to the stock unit I.E engine side not through the side of the gearbox as in the stock position. Gona pop up Jurgens to see if the bracket is still there for the slave cylinder to be relocated. heres a couple of pics of what i mean. another option is to try and use the stock fork and slave cylinder but this could possably mate the pedal FAR FAR to stiff to use. The Stock fork gap is 4mm smaller that the Ogura Fork which would take no time to trim out and give a go but ive got a feeling its gona make the clutch too heavy. Finally after talking to Dude, im gona look into making a solid alloy Propshaft donut. aslong as i can get the material it will take me no time at all to machine it at work whilst im on nights aslong as the gaffer doesnt catch me;) More info on this soon..................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 That's looking good. You must've been a bit nervous hammering away at the bodywork like that. I know I would have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 coming along nice bud, loving your seats, where did you pick them up from?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Just keeps getting better and better....and better. Can't wait to see it finished mate! Where are you getting it sprayed when all the bodywork adjustments are done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 25, 2010 Author Share Posted April 25, 2010 That's looking good. You must've been a bit nervous hammering away at the bodywork like that. I know I would have! I was using a large soft hammer so can't do much damage with 1 of those really and it's the 2nd 1 I've done as my blue supra had overfenders on so I've have abit of practice lol. coming along nice bud, loving your seats, where did you pick them up from?? I got the seats from Nizam. I swapped them for some bits from the aero I was breaking. I had them trimmed at a local upolsteror. Just keeps getting better and better....and better. Can't wait to see it finished mate! Where are you getting it sprayed when all the bodywork adjustments are done? not sure where yet TBH I've got a couple of good bodyshops in mind. It won't be getting painted til very last after it's running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 Ah right. Was just after a good bodyshop recomendation for some bits n bobs on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 both bodyshops im considering are top notch. Just depends which offers me the best deal really. Ill happily pass on there details to you mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sams Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 It coming along nicely, your clutch has confused me tho as the standard servo location would surgest to me it uses a pull clutch, but the new fork/bearing you have fitted and needing the servo moving says to me your new clutch is a push clutch, correct me I'm wrong, (won't learn if I don't ask lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 It coming along nicely, your clutch has confused me tho as the standard servo location would surgest to me it uses a pull clutch, but the new fork/bearing you have fitted and needing the servo moving says to me your new clutch is a push clutch, correct me I'm wrong, (won't learn if I don't ask lol) Mate I really have no idea lol. I'm just Gina put it together and hope for the best I recon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen-Jm-Imports Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 your new clutch is push mate http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-push-pull-movement-conversion-kit-10885 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sams Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 your new clutch is push mate http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-push-pull-movement-conversion-kit-10885 so am I correct in saying the standard clutch I a pull clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen-Jm-Imports Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 so am I correct in saying the standard clutch I a pull clutch yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 your new clutch is push mate http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-push-pull-movement-conversion-kit-10885 Ah I see. So this is why the slave cylinder is on The other side:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Could you use a hydraulic release bearing instead of the massive fork arrangement you currently have? Would be a tidier install and I have loads of info on doing it on the standard V160, if ya interested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 Could you use a hydraulic release bearing instead of the massive fork arrangement you currently have? Would be a tidier install and I have loads of info on doing it on the standard V160, if ya interested? Yes please matey. I'd really appreciate that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Ok, I'll fire it over on pm for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 p.m recieved cheers Ed. I've looked over the info Ed has sent me and recon I'm gona give this a go. It just means it's goingvto put the build back a few weeks but I think it's going to be well worth it. I'm going for a hydrolic release bearing. It will iliminate the fork and the slave cylinder so I can keep the box sealed instead of having to chop up the inspection cover so the fork can pop through. Just need a little more info on it and off we go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallis Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 It took me over an hour to read through all this lot, but well worth it john im well impressed;) Your one devoted guy thats for sure, with some proper skills this project is just sick! It looks like its going to be well on par if not better than your last project. If u dont mind me asking mate what did u sell your last big blue for thats probably the best looking supra i have ever seen mate. Keep up the great work and thx again for the crank pulley, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 It took me over an hour to read through all this lot, but well worth it john im well impressed;) Your one devoted guy thats for sure, with some proper skills this project is just sick! It looks like its going to be well on par if not better than your last project. If u dont mind me asking mate what did u sell your last big blue for thats probably the best looking supra i have ever seen mate. Keep up the great work and thx again for the crank pulley, Just wanted to build a new 1 matt. I love building them its quite theroputic when it all starts to come together. No sweat about the crank pulley mate. Glad to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 p.m recieved cheers Ed. I've looked over the info Ed has sent me and recon I'm gona give this a go. It just means it's goingvto put the build back a few weeks but I think it's going to be well worth it. I'm going for a hydrolic release bearing. It will iliminate the fork and the slave cylinder so I can keep the box sealed instead of having to chop up the inspection cover so the fork can pop through. Just need a little more info on it and off we go. Good man. Once you have all the bits you need you'll be able to see how straightforward it is. I'm sure it will be a doddle for someone with your skill level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 well lets hope so Ed. Ive dropped chris wilson an email about the kit from demon tweeks so im awaiting his reply and ill get stuck in. No doubt ill have a few more questions as i go if its not much trouble mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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