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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Boost Controller


Andrew Dunk Shaw

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Hi Guys,

 

Im going to remove the 1st cat now, i have already got a Super Drager and HKS second cat removal pipe fitted and just wanted to know whats the best boost controller to fit uk tt auto.

I preferably want a simple unit so that i can just set the boost just below danger levels, say (15-16 psi ?) and leave it to do its job.

Dont really want to have to put on FCD or extra boost gauges.

Regards

Andrew(dunk)Shaw

Black uk mkiv tt

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I have a Blitz DSBC on my car. It has four settings of which I only use the one.

 

It has a built in digital boost gauge and overboost warning which you can hear quite well over music.

 

With the above in mind I have mine in the glove compartment and don't think about it from one week to the next.

 

If you want to run over 15psi fit an fcd (17/18psi for a uk spec is reasonable), simple and hides under the passenger carpet.

 

There is no need to fill the car with lots of gauges and boxes, the car won't go any faster.

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Hi,

 

As far as I understand it, a boost controller will not be much use unless when you remove the cat, it is not producing enough boost on its own accord without the restriction it once had.

 

Removal of both cats should give you about 1.2-1.3 bar which is maximum safe limits anyway. A boost guage will not be able to reduce this.

 

A FCD is a must after about 1.1 bar anyway so all you need is a FCD and a boost guage to indicate your boost and ensure that you can see it is not overboosing.

 

I may be wrong though :baa:

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Originally posted by as5606

Hi,

 

As far as I understand it, a boost controller will not be much use unless when you remove the cat, it is not producing enough boost on its own accord without the restriction it once had.

 

Removal of both cats should give you about 1.2-1.3 bar which is maximum safe limits anyway. A boost guage will not be able to reduce this.

 

A FCD is a must after about 1.1 bar anyway so all you need is a FCD and a boost guage to indicate your boost and ensure that you can see it is not overboosing.

 

I may be wrong though :baa:

 

what car are you talking about here UK or J-spec?

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Originally posted by Adam Wootten

Yeah, but it's impossible to read the display while you're on the move. I've got both, but on reflection I could have gone for the normal Greddy gauge and used the p/h/w features on the Blitz DSBC.

 

Leon quite happily set my car up using the DSBC.

 

Why would I want to send my life looking at the boost gauge when I have a boost controller keeping my boost at the desired level?

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Originally posted by as5606

Hi,

 

As far as I understand it, a boost controller will not be much use unless when you remove the cat, it is not producing enough boost on its own accord without the restriction it once had.

 

Removal of both cats should give you about 1.2-1.3 bar which is maximum safe limits anyway. A boost guage will not be able to reduce this.

 

A FCD is a must after about 1.1 bar anyway so all you need is a FCD and a boost guage to indicate your boost and ensure that you can see it is not overboosing.

 

I may be wrong though :baa:

 

This only applies to J-Specs, as this is a UK spec you will quite rightly require a Boost Controller to up the boost. Fuel cut is around 14-15 PSI I think, so you'll need an FCD if you want to go higher (TRL VFCC http://www.trlperformance.com/main.html). 1.2bar/18PSI is generally considered the "safe" level. With 1.3bar if you get FMIC/Water injection (but then you might want to just go for highbrids anyway ;)).

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Thorin.

 

Are you saying that a jspec will run higher boost levels with replacement cats than a UK spec and that a UK spec will need a boost controller to increase to 1.2-1.3bar like a j-spec will produce automatically.

 

If this is so, why is that. Is it because of the different turbos or manifold?

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Originally posted by as5606

Thorin.

 

Are you saying that a jspec will run higher boost levels with replacement cats than a UK spec and that a UK spec will need a boost controller to increase to 1.2-1.3bar like a j-spec will produce automatically.

 

If this is so, why is that. Is it because of the different turbos or manifold?

 

J-spec cars with 3"cat replacement pipes and a low back pressure exhaust will overboost up to 1.7 bar. The cat replacement pipes sold by Chris Wilson maintain boost at 1.2-13 bar

 

As I recall the UK spec cars have a different wastegate design, in fact I have never heard of one overboosting.

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Yup, different wastegate on J-Specs. I'm no expert but it's unable to regulate the presure when the restriction of the cats is removed. Using 3" pipework would cause a J-Spec to overboost to dangerous levels, but fitting ~2.5" pipework (from Chris Wilson) or one of his restrictor plates will give just enough restriction to keep the boost below ~1.2 bar. I'm off to see Mr Wilson to have him remove both cats from my car soon, can't wait :D

 

Oh and I know he does replacement pipes for UK specs too.

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UK's have a recirculation system which prevents over boost, but also means they need a boost conroller to take full advantage of the decat and big bore pipes. Boost controllers are not necessary on decatted Jap specs on stock turbos IMHO :flame Dev

 

No need to get it, I have my coat on, and am half way out the door.:baa:

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Originally posted by Terminator

UK's have a recirculation system which prevents over boost, but also means they need a boost conroller to take full advantage of the decat and big bore pipes. Boost controllers are not necessary on decatted Jap specs on stock turbos IMHO

 

Is that the EGR system then phil?

 

Whats the crack if you blank off the system then, ala Gavin?

 

Gaz.

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I've got a Blitz Dual SBC and reckon it's excellent. I've also got a Greddy boost guage. The guage allows me to see what's going on and the boost controller monitors peaks and allows me a track day set-up, normal everyday set-up and I can shut it all down to remind myself of what a standard car is like. I can't fault it for a piece of tuning kit. Incidentally I have both cats still fitted although am considering removing one. Any views on which one will be appreciated.

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Originally posted by John Packham

I've got a Blitz Dual SBC and reckon it's excellent. I've also got a Greddy boost guage. The guage allows me to see what's going on and the boost controller monitors peaks and allows me a track day set-up, normal everyday set-up and I can shut it all down to remind myself of what a standard car is like. I can't fault it for a piece of tuning kit. Incidentally I have both cats still fitted although am considering removing one. Any views on which one will be appreciated.

 

Remove the first (closely followed by the second)

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Originally posted by John Packham

I've got a Blitz Dual SBC and reckon it's excellent. I've also got a Greddy boost guage. The guage allows me to see what's going on and the boost controller monitors peaks and allows me a track day set-up, normal everyday set-up and I can shut it all down to remind myself of what a standard car is like. I can't fault it for a piece of tuning kit. Incidentally I have both cats still fitted although am considering removing one. Any views on which one will be appreciated.

 

You cats are offering a lot of restriction in the system so your boost controller will enable you to have a range of boost levels at your control. Once the cats are out your minimum level with a boost controller will be much higher than you can sustain at the moment. IMO

 

Before my restrictor ring was fitted I could hit 1.45bar, now my peak is 1.24. I have a pillar mounted peak/ hold gauge with the warning set to 1.20 just to remind me things are heating up, as my EGT probe is not located in the right place yet. My boost controller is my right foot.;)

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In that case what's the advantage in me taking cat(s) out. The prime reason for the original question is that the centre cat is restricting my ground-clearance as my car runs wuite a low ride-height. I already have a steady 1.1bar if I want it but generally run 1.0.

 

Any comments welcome.

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