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Dan's Supra Project


dandan

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I've added this one to show the wastegate port area on this manifold. As you can see, there is plenty material cast around the wastegate port region. There's lots of room for opening up to gain flow area without ending up with a wafer thin region trying to hold a gasket on this face.

 

 

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I've heard quite a few (second hand) stories about the Turbonetics manifolds leaking after a while if heavily ported. On the other hand I've heard stories of boost spikes if the Turbonetics manifold's wastegate outlet is left untouched. So I think if you have one of those manifolds it may be a bit of a "rock - hard place" scenario regarding porting if you're running biggish power with not much boost.

 

I don't think it will be be a probem with this manifold setup. The wastegate outlet is pretty big and will flow well :)

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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I had all the manifold, turbine inlet and V band faces checked for flatness and the ones that weren't perfect were machined flat.

 

 

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I'm not 100% sure if I'll be going with a 0.68 or a 0.81 turbine housing. I'm thinking the 0.68 should really have plenty low down pull with this manifold so should be excellent as a daily driver type car.

 

On the other hand, the fast spooling characteristics of the cast manifold may give enough low rpm benefit to get a fast (ish) spooling setup with the 0.81 combined with its top end power advantage over the 0.68.........hmmmm.......choices.

 

 

The 0.81 does need a little cleanup whereas the 0.68 is brand new.

 

 

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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Hi Dan,

I've stiil got a manifold like that & all the associated kit sitting in my garage.

spool was very quick, could even be described as savage, but was seeing boost spikes of 1.8 bar.... didn't bother trying to increase the port size, Just went tubular instead.

John

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Id start with the .68 and see how you get on, mine does ok on a .68.

 

My initial thoughts were to go with the 0.68 Jamie. I figured I'm not likely to find it lacking in the top end whereas if I made a poor choice with the 0.81 then I'd definitely be disappointed with the spool and low end torque

 

Hi Dan,

I've stiil got a manifold like that & all the associated kit sitting in my garage.

spool was very quick, could even be described as savage, but was seeing boost spikes of 1.8 bar.... didn't bother trying to increase the port size, Just went tubular instead.

John

Your comments on the spool are encouraging to hear John although I can see why you moved on if you were getting boost spikes up at 1.8bar! :bang:

 

What turbo were you running on that manifold, something smaller than a 67mm?

 

It isn't a five minute job porting the manifold but it could be made a lot easier by simply machining it out to an acceptable size and then tidying up the transition area by hand. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment so I did it all by hand! :D

Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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T61 with .68, the spool was mental:d

there's quite a bit of difference from the boostlogic manifold.

Maybe at some stage I might look into geting the old cast manifold sorted & try it out.

I've still got all the bits so not too big of a job I suppose.

It will be very interesting how yours turns out

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T61 with .68, the spool was mental:d

there's quite a bit of difference from the boostlogic manifold.

Maybe at some stage I might look into geting the old cast manifold sorted & try it out.

I've still got all the bits so not too big of a job I suppose.

It will be very interesting how yours turns out

 

When you say "difference" - I take it you mean the cast manifold helped spool the turbo up faster? Were you rinning 3" or 4" downpipe?

 

At least you have it there in case you need it :)

 

Great ic pipework Dan, I had a similar task when fitting the Jun manifold, total PITA.

Looking forward to the results, who is mapping it?

 

The intercooler piping took a lot of effort and messing around. I'm very happy with how it's turned out and the routing. Now I need to get some bosses welded on for temperature measurement points, a water injection nozzle and the flange for the blow off valve.

 

Ryan will be doing the mapping. :thumbs:

 

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i did offer mate :D you glutton you :D

 

I've been having so many things coming and going in the post and had some ongoing crap with a missing parcel I've almost developed an aversion to the post office so couldn't bring myself to send it :D

 

Excellent setup Dan, keep the pics coming :)

 

Subscribed :)

 

Will do mate, stay tuned :)

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I had the manifold faces and turbine housings crack tested before going any further with any porting and ceramic coating.

 

The general process was to clean (with a specific cleaner), spray on the penetrant dye, leave for a number of minutes, clean off all dye from surfaces to be looked at, spray on developer, leave for a few more minutes.......look for cracks with a special light.

 

Any cracks (or porous areas) would hold dye even after being wiped clean. Then, when the developing powder goes on the surface it pulls the dye out from the cracks and shows up under the light.

 

Penetrant in place

 

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Developing powder which would show up cracks if they were there ;)

 

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You can get an idea of how the dye would show up a crack by looking at the last two photos and looking at the gasket face. There are a few little areas where some porosity breaks through to the surface and some edges which haven't been deburred yet. These hold the dye like a crack would and show up as bright green under the light. Fortunately there aren't any cracks so I can press on without worrying about wasting time........:)

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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Making up the intake pipe followed a similar pattern to the intercooler piping....

 

- Buying enough tube pieces to cut to required shape and lengths

- Lots of hacksaw and file action :)

- Matching curves and mocking up the final design prior to welding

 

The parts are now with the welder along with a couple of other little bits.

 

 

I tried a 90 degree piece to start with to see where that would put the fiter but it simply didn't fit.

 

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It seems a shame to cut up a decent 45 degree 4" pipe just to get a 20degree or so bend out of it but nevermind!

 

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Once all this is complete I will scheme up a sealed airbox and feed from the old intercooler duct. That should allow plenty cool air to be drawn in without exposing the filter to any muck/debris on the road if I tuck it down in the side duct area.

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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Here are a few shots of the wastegate parts I have been mocking up.

 

I'm waiting for a piece for the downpipe to arrive before I get the wastegate feed finalized. If I was running a screamer pipe I could simply press on but I'm recirculating the wastegate outlet so I need the downpipe finished and in postion before committing to the arrangement for the wastegate plumbing.

 

I have shown a shot of the flange vs. a normal Tial 38mm gasket. This was taken before the centre hole was enlarged. This gives an idea of how much extra material can be removed from the wastegate/manifold flange whilst maintaining a decent sealing area. I will be running with no gasket and the surfaces will be machined flat after all welding is complete.

 

 

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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I spent some more time finishing the manifold porting. Now it's pretty much ready to go for ceramic coating.

 

I am going to wait until I have the downpipe, midpipe, and wastegate pipework ready and then send it all in one go with the manifold and turbine housings.

 

 

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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I'll get a few photos tomorrow night Paul with the gasket against mine and the gasket against the head.

 

From memory it was pretty damn good as it was. The head mating face was flat to within about 6 or 7 thou as well. Not bad. ;)

 

The T4 outlet shape left a bit to be desired and the wastegate port was small. In general I am very impressed.

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One of my main hold ups has been the downpipe. I can't fnish anything on the wastegate, midpipe, catch tank or breathers until the downpipe is finished....that way I know what room I have to play with.

 

I had it pretty much sorted but I wasn't happy with how close it was to the bulkhead or clutch master cylinder. The cast manifold doesn't have a clocked turbo flange so the downpipie sits aligned with the engine pointing almost directly at the clutch master cylinder.

 

A transition from the 3" V band up to 4" pipe means the 90 degree turn is close to the master cylinder. I had a complete new V band flange and transition to 4" machined from solid -this saved messing around with welding and got the exact profile I wanted. Now there's lots of room, the internal transition is smooth and I'm able to start back on it and make some progress :)

 

 

These are the pieces I managed to find and these were a last resort....the downpipe would be a little too close too the master cylinder if I used these (probably ok but I wasn't completely comfortable with it)

 

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So, like I said, I went with a custom piece from solid and that got me just what I wanted:

 

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