FireStormNBI Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 How did you adjust the timing? And ignore the comments on your vid, they seem to think it's a MkIII Supra with a timing light. spark plug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 now it starts but below 1k rpm even when cold.. then dies.. when i turn the ignition to ON the MANU light turns on and off like some sort of short circuit. and i can hear something ticking underneath the auto transmission everytime the MANU turns on and off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I meant how did you actually adjust the timing I'm not sure how you do it on the NA as you can't on the TT. You may have an earth fault? Do any of the dash lights glow dimly or behave strangely? Any odd low voltage readings where there shouldn't be? -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I meant how did you actually adjust the timing I'm not sure how you do it on the NA as you can't on the TT. -Ian The Dizzy has rotational movement for timing adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 The Dizzy has rotational movement for timing adjustment. I did wonder. Is it an accepted maintenance requirement or is it the timing equivalent of turning the throttle stop screw because your idle is wrong? (i.e. you're masking the problem, not fixing it) ps and Hi Mig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 (edited) From memory, and it isn't great, base timing on an N/A should be somewhere in the region of 8-13° @ 650-750 rpm's on a warm engine. There was also something about ECM controlled timing and having to remove the bridge connector in the diagnostic plug to check it, but don't quote me on that. IanC makes a very valid point. Once the timing is set correctly, and within spec, it should never need re-setting for any other reason than if it has wandered (which you check when servicing). I don't think timing is the problem here:) P.S Hi Ian, you well bud? Edited August 15, 2009 by Miguel Spelling (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 IanC makes a very valid point. Once the timing is set correctly, and within spec, it should never need re-setting for any other reason than if it has wandered (which you check when servicing). That was kind of what I was moving towards P.S Hi Ian, you well bud? Muchos good thanks, still figuring out how to get my mitts on the new Dodge Challenger after you poisoned my mind with that picture of the concept Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Muchos good thanks, still figuring out how to get my mitts on the new Dodge Challenger after you poisoned my mind with that picture of the concept I know where there is 2 black ones sitting:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I know where there is 2 black ones sitting:p PM me otherwise I'll have to delete my own posts for spamming tech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I meant how did you actually adjust the timing I'm not sure how you do it on the NA as you can't on the TT. You may have an earth fault? Do any of the dash lights glow dimly or behave strangely? Any odd low voltage readings where there shouldn't be? -Ian by rotating the distributor.. the MANU light blinks on and off when i turn the ignition to ON even without starting the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 i dont think timing is the problem here.. could be the ignition coil? i'll try to replace it with a new one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) i know its not the same car but same prob my daily drive is a saxo and i had very similar probs so i stripped the the throttel body and cleaned out the fuel regulator sensor [it was black and i put in a new maf sensor now it runs perfect it was running lumpy cutting out etc etc .sounds like your ecu is getting wrong signals from something this is from supra manual IGNITION TIMING IGNITION TIMING (Degrees BTDC @ Idle) (1) (2) Base (3) ECM Controlled Application Timing Timing Non-Turbo ................. 8-12 ....................... 7-19 Turbo ..................... 8-12 ...................... 10-20 Edited August 17, 2009 by Dave (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yaz Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Have you checked the idle speed control valve or throttle position sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 this might help you mate 1) Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. Shut engine off. 2) On non-turbo models, connect timing light to spark plug wire on cylinder No. 1 (front cylinder at timing belt end of engine). Connect scan tester to data link connector No. 3. See Figs. 6 and 7. Scan tester is used to read engine RPM. 3) On turbo models, open cover located above the igniter. Connect timing light lead to Green wire and to battery. See Fig. 9. Igniter is located near driver’s side strut tower. Connect tachometer to proper terminals of data link connector No. 1 located in engine compartment. See Figs. 6 and 7. 4) On all models, apply parking brake. Place transmission in Neutral. Start engine and maintain engine at 2500 RPM for 90 seconds and then allow engine to idle. Ensure idle speed is 650-750 RPM on non-turbo models or 600-700 on turbo models. 5) Install Jumper Wire (SST 09843-18020) between terminals TE1 and E1 of data link connector No. 1 located in engine compartment. See Fig. 8. NOTE: Timing marks are located on front cover. 6) Ensure base timing is within specification at idle with transmission in Neutral, electric cooling fan off, A/C and all accessories off. See IGNITION TIMING table. 7) On non-turbo models, if base timing is not within specification, loosen distributor hold-down nut. Rotate distributor to obtain correct base timing. Tighten distributor hold-down nut. 8) On all models, remove jumper wire from data link connector No. 1. Ensure ECM controlled timing is within specification. See IGNITION TIMING table. Shut engine off. Remove jumper wire, tachometer or scan tester and timing light. IGNITION TIMING TABLE (Degrees BTDC @ Idle) (1) (2) Base (3) ECM Controlled Application Timing Timing Non-Turbo ................. 8-12 ....................... 7-19 Turbo ..................... 8-12 ...................... 10-20 (1) - Check with engine at normal operating temperature, transmission in Neutral, parking brake applied, A/C and all accessories off. (2) - With Jumper Wire (SST 09843-18020) installed between terminals TE1 and E1 on data link connector No. 1. (3) - With jumper wire removed from data link connector No. 1. Fig. 6: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 Have you checked the idle speed control valve or throttle position sensor? my TPS is NEW.. havent checked the ISC Valve yet.. what do i look for in my ISC valve? how do i test it if its still ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest FLZ_Boy Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 my TPS is NEW.. havent checked the ISC Valve yet.. what do i look for in my ISC valve? how do i test it if its still ok? Is the TPS adjusted to Toyota's Factory Settings? For the ISC, it will click two times when you move the ignition key to "On" In addition, you might want to clean it, but it may not be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 could it be my ignition coil is the culprit? i checked all plugs and they are all black (soot) indicating a rich mixture.. and when i start the car it runs normal for a few seconds and then its symptoms comes back.. my guess is that when the ignition coil is still cold it still fires normally, then after a few seconds when its hot it misfires.. can anyone confirm this? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Could well be the coil mate. I'm sure that's where your rev counter gets the signal feed from, and to see the needle dropping so drastically when it cuts points to it being a possible culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 thanks for your input mate.. i'll try to install a different coil and see if it still misfires.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 the engine trouble was caused by a rusty socket near the ECU (orange socket with a lever for disconnecting)... i cleaned it with a contact cleaner, sanded the terminals.. now it runs fine again.. thanks for all your input.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Well done mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Glad to hear you got it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 ECU was the problem.. got it fixed already.. finally.. fried capacitors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Thanks for posting up the solution, it could help others on here. You did well to find the cause of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireStormNBI Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 i found out the hard way though.. took almost a year.. replaced many parts on the igition system. checked almost all the parts from fuel pump to almost all of the sensors. took out the dash. until one day it came across my mind to open the ECU out of desperation. im glad i did.. the lessons learned will help others as well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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