dr_jekyll Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 just some questions about thr cylinder displacements . am i rite in thinking that stroking the engine to increase displacement is to increase the stroke of the piston hence giving larger displace ment when the piston is in full induction position? if so what pros/cons dose this give over re-boreing the cylinders to gain displacement? i have seen many poeple that use the 3.4 stroker kit but i dont hewr many people re-boreing , so (hears where i get silly) .is it possible to stroke and re-bore the 2jz. ? .has anybody ever done it ? .if so what is the max displacement the 2jz can have before you run out of metal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) have i asked a qustion that no1 knows the answer to? Edited August 6, 2009 by dr_jekyll (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 bump , still searching fopr knowlage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 The HKS stroker kit comes with 87mm piston which is the largest you can go in a 2JZ. So to reach 3.4 it has to be stroked and bored. If you just rebore to 87mm it will be just under 3.1L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nero Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 You can bore a 2JZ no issues, many go 20 over (0.020), 40 over and then most don't recomend boring. But you can go 50 over and 60 over. Stroke's you can run stock stroke at 86mm, 90mm stroke (3.2L) or 94mm (3.4L) The 3.4L motor is the most common bore/stroke is 94mm crank and 87mm piston (40 over) Big HP guys 1200+ often will use stock or 20 over piston because you can run into cylinder cracking issues. Best to stick to max displacement of 3.4L that is proven and works. You can try to go crazier, but then your doing a frankenstein build. just some questions about thr cylinder displacements . am i rite in thinking that stroking the engine to increase displacement is to increase the stroke of the piston hence giving larger displace ment when the piston is in full induction position? if so what pros/cons dose this give over re-boreing the cylinders to gain displacement? i have seen many poeple that use the 3.4 stroker kit but i dont hewr many people re-boreing , so (hears where i get silly) .is it possible to stroke and re-bore the 2jz. ? .has anybody ever done it ? .if so what is the max displacement the 2jz can have before you run out of metal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 am i rite in thinking that stroking the engine to increase displacement is to increase the stroke of the piston hence giving larger displace ment when the piston is in full induction position?Yes, that's right. if so what pros/cons dose this give over re-boreing the cylinders to gain displacement? i have seen many poeple that use the 3.4 stroker kit but i dont hewr many people re-boreing , so (hears where i get silly) .is it possible to stroke and re-bore the 2jz. ? .has anybody ever done it ? .if so what is the max displacement the 2jz can have before you run out of metal?The problem is that the cylinders on the 2JZ are close together, so you can't increase the bore by a meaningful amount. Boring it out to 87mm is the most anybody does by choice and that only inceases the displacement by, IIRC, something like 40cc. Generally, folks only rebore the 2JZ to make-good damaged cylinder bores, rather to increase displacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 A longer stroke will reduce the potential for high revs, and GENERALLY increases piston loadings. Personally I don't think the 2JZ engines work well at long strokes, in fact the shorter stroke 1JZ is a much "nicer" engine. Boring much more than 1mm oversize compromises cylinder block wall stability and may result in poorer ring sealing than a stock or modest over bore. Radical over boring will demand custom pistons, and should only be done on blocks that have been tested for casting integrity and core shift. If a scrap block or two worries you don't do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nero Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Chris is correct with the reduction of high rev's, but in the case of the 2JZ a proper built 3.4L can go up to 9500rpm's which you will likely never use in most cars. The Stroked 2JZ also will give you better average HP across the power band and spool up much quicker (usually 900rpm) from a 3.0L to a 3.4L Chris is 100% correct, I would not suggest going over +1mm unless you have to, always best to try and stay with a smaller bore so you have stronger/thicker cylinder walls. A longer stroke will reduce the potential for high revs, and GENERALLY increases piston loadings. Personally I don't think the 2JZ engines work well at long strokes, in fact the shorter stroke 1JZ is a much "nicer" engine. Boring much more than 1mm oversize compromises cylinder block wall stability and may result in poorer ring sealing than a stock or modest over bore. Radical over boring will demand custom pistons, and should only be done on blocks that have been tested for casting integrity and core shift. If a scrap block or two worries you don't do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 that petty mutch covers it , thank you gentlemen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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