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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

what next for BPU?


Lee_e

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hey guys

 

basically iv just got my exhaust system decated and im fitting my walbro fuel pump and greddy fcd within the next week , i have a fmic also.

 

what im asking is what step do i take next ? im getting a boost controller aswell when money comes my way lol

 

do i go spark plugs or what ?

 

cheers

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grade 7 plugs you wil need! Had mine done yesterday! For my BPU i had

 

Double De-Cat

NGK Grade 7 plugs

Blitz i - colour spec s boost controller

HKS full system

Cone air filter

Walbro fuel pump

 

And i think thats all i needed...i refered to homers post that he linked me a while back...the same one that he linked in this post

 

Paul

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yer i know the standard air intake etc is better but i have a fmic and by the looks of where the pipes are , a standard air filter wouldnt fit into this hole. but i maybe wrong.

 

how much are standard air filters from toyota ? i have a jspec TT facelift.

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yer i know the standard air intake etc is better but i have a fmic and by the looks of where the pipes are , a standard air filter wouldnt fit into this hole. but i maybe wrong.

 

how much are standard air filters from toyota ? i have a jspec TT facelift.

 

They can fit, but it depends on the make of the IC pipework. If it's an ebay job then they mostly don't fit with the stock induction, but the likes of Greddy & HKS the airbox fits fine.

 

Personally I'd go for the stock airbox if you have the option to use one. I found the engine performed much better in traffic, not so much in power, just a lot smoother.

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im not sure what make the intercooler is [sHOCK][/sHOCK] but shal find out when iv finished work.

 

do you know the retail on a jspec airbox ? could i not just put a cold air feed through from behind front bumper to feed air straight to the cone filter , as from what i can see it doesnt look asthough its getting good air .

 

and as for sparkys, are grade 7 ngk ok for bpu ? opinions?

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After the full BPU has been carried out what can you expect from the Mines ECU? Any added power , if so how much?

 

I can dig out the info, but it basically does the job of the FCD (think it removes fuel cut, which isn't a good thing)and makes some ignition timing changes (slightly more agressive). I don't think it does anything else.

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im not sure what make the intercooler is [sHOCK][/sHOCK] but shal find out when iv finished work.

 

do you know the retail on a jspec airbox ? could i not just put a cold air feed through from behind front bumper to feed air straight to the cone filter , as from what i can see it doesnt look asthough its getting good air .

 

and as for sparkys, are grade 7 ngk ok for bpu ? opinions?

 

You can get them 2nd hand on here for not much, if you can post a pic of your setup it should be easy enough to identify.

 

A cold sir feed would make a tiny amount of difference, not worth the effort. You'd still have all that hot air blowing onto the filter from the fan (stil you hand on the filter when it warm and you'll see what I mean. The stock box suck in all it's air from ourside the engine bay so is ideal.

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oh right ok , so stock box it is then.

 

but by the looks of it im going to be forking out alot over the next week or so, so the box will have to wait untill i get sufitient funds lol

 

so bringing it all to a conclusion im gunna be looking for :

 

stock box

ngk grade 7 plugs

boost controller

greddy fcd

walbro fuel pump

 

should that be ok ?

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You don't need a stock box as such, if you already have an air filter it'll be perfectly reuseable. Just fit a stock box as and when time/money allows.

 

You don't *need* a boost controller on a jspec, but they are a 'nice to have'. Actually what spec do you have? Uk or jspec?

 

Do you already have a boost gauge, if not, add that to your list. What about AFR or EGT?

 

Are the decats already installed? If it's jspec and you're getting above 0.9 bar I wouldn't recommend driving it until the important bits are fitted. If you do drive it, just stay off high boost.

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yer they already are fitted and no im going no where near giving it the beans, as id be silly just to ruin my car for the sake of speed lol

 

as for spec yes it is a jspec and i have a restrictor ring installed aswell,

i thought a boost controller was pretty much a "must have" in a TT supra , but if you are telling me its not entirely nessesary then okey dokey ill save my money and get a boost gauge and all other gauges done instead.

 

thanks for all your help homer :D

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as for spec yes it is a jspec and i have a restrictor ring installed aswell,

i thought a boost controller was pretty much a "must have" in a TT supra , but if you are telling me its not entirely nessesary then okey dokey ill save my money and get a boost gauge and all other gauges done instead.

 

A boost gauge (with peak hold) is absolutely required mate, if anything else fit that before you do any mods. You won't have any idea what the car is doing otherwise.

 

Once you make the other mods the restrictor *may* require trimming (or replacing for a smaller one) to find your peak boost. In the current temps this is not ideal, if it's trimmed to reach 1.2 bar now, it will likely hit 1.4+ bar once temps cool (i.e far too high). It's best to get the peak bar rating for the restrictor during the winter as this will find the highest boost the car will reach. A boost controller will allow you to raise the boost during hotter months, however you must have at least an AFR or EGT gauge fitted to monitor what's going on in the engine.

 

For example, in todays 32 degree temps running 1.2bar on a BPU car would be a bad idea, intake temps are far higher and the risk of det occurring is exponentially increased.

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A boost gauge (with peak hold) is absolutely required mate, if anything else fit that before you do any mods. You won't have any idea what the car is doing otherwise.

 

Most boost controllers will give the same info as a boost gauge, so that's not entirely true.

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Most boost controllers will give the same info as a boost gauge, so that's not entirely true.

 

Boost controllers are digital and have delayed refresh rate. They are useful for checking peak values, but useless at checking it on the fly.

 

Unless it's a car with a mapped ECU only using a BC to monitor boost is extremely risky as only spikes will be detected, not actual values like an analouge gauge can display.

 

There is also the 'line of eye' issue. Analogue gauges can be mounted where they are directly visible and a wuick glance can see where the needle is at or if a red light is on. Boost contollers are always tucked out the line of sight so are not usefull when for "daily" driving when the eyes are front focused.

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