bigbloodyturbo Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Does anyone know how aggressive plusgas is on finished metalwork? One of my teague chokes on my shotgun has seized (my fault as I forgot to clean the chokes when I used the gun a couple of weeks ago) and I cant get it to shift with normal Legia gun oil or barrel/choke cleaner. I don't want to stick plusgas down there if its going to damage the finish in the barrel though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronttuk Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 i use to use plain old wd40 if its still stuck after a good soaking gently heat the barrel up to expand it and it should work free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonkin Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 I’d just give it a good soaking with WD40, literally swamp it, and leave it to penetrate overnight before trying to remove them. edit - doh, didnt see your reply Alfi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Cheers for the replies, I'll try wd40 then. I've heard of guys going as far as mole grips but I think thats a little bit extreme! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronttuk Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 If thier extended chokes you can use mole grips but cover the choke with a cloth to stop any marking and dont grip to hard chokes can be bent out of shape, if in any doubt take it to a gunsmith they should remove it for a few quid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 If thier extended chokes you can use mole grips but cover the choke with a cloth to stop any marking and dont grip to hard chokes can be bent out of shape, if in any doubt take it to a gunsmith they should remove it for a few quid Yeah they're extended teague chokes, I really don't want to use mole grips on them as they're regulated from the factory and even a slight deformation could ruin the pattern they throw, it's my 1/2 aswell and its my favourite choke as with express super comps they pattern really well, hence why I use it for just about everything:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronttuk Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Give it a soak in wd40 if its still stuck i would take it to a gunsmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 I'd try Napier gun cleaner / lubricant...comes in a spray can, very like plusgas but definitely wont harm the bores. Spray the extended choke ends, then tie a small plastic bag over the barrel ends held on with an elastic band and spray a lot of the Napier down the breech end. Other than that, I'd go to a gunsmith. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Saw the barrel shorter ya` nancy, and the stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Saw the barrel shorter ya` nancy, and the stock I suppose I could, the post office jobs I pull would pay for a perazzi or atleast a single kit for the sup. I have napier barrel/choke cleaner Ewen(stuff in the can) and I thought it would shift it as it smelt like pretty serious stuff but no joy. I've soaked it in wd40 and i'm going to borrow one of the tools you get for removing flush fit teague chokes and give it a try tomorrow. I think whats causing the problem is that the threads are 3"'s up from the muzzle and its hard to get oil to sit on that area for long enough. That and me being an idiot and not sticking youngs 303 on it lastime I used it:rolleyes:oops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 The correct way to undo thin walled threaded tubes is to turn up a sleeve from soft aluminium, in the lathe, that's a snug, but free fit on the OD of the tube you want to turn. Saw or mill a longitudinal slit in the sleeve. Turn a soft alloy solid plug to go snugly within the tube you want to undo. Clamp the split tube on and tighten with Jubilee clips or similar. if you wish to do a pukka job weld on short small ID tubes at 90 degrees to the axis of the sleeve and use through bolts and nuts as the clamping forces. The plug stops the tube crushing. Turn with grips, or machine flats on the split tube for a spanner to grip. Not sure how the chokes fit though, is there some projecting tube to grip on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 The correct way to undo thin walled threaded tubes is to turn up a sleeve from soft aluminium, in the lathe, that's a snug, but free fit on the OD of the tube you want to turn. Saw or mill a longitudinal slit in the sleeve. Turn a soft alloy solid plug to go snugly within the tube you want to undo. Clamp the split tube on and tighten with Jubilee clips or similar. if you wish to do a pukka job weld on short small ID tubes at 90 degrees to the axis of the sleeve and use through bolts and nuts as the clamping forces. The plug stops the tube crushing. Turn with grips, or machine flats on the split tube for a spanner to grip. Not sure how the chokes fit though, is there some projecting tube to grip on? yes there is about 1/2" of knurled material exposed from the muzzle so you can hand tighten them. Thats not a bad idea with the plug, I was considering using copper strip on the knurling and mole grips but I could turn out a plug to support the tube wall. God I hope it doesn't get that far:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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