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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

oil change


monkey76364

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Mate, its the same as any other car.

 

Drop the undertray. Warm up engine and turn off. Put catch tank under oil drian hole. Remove oil drain plug. Drain oil. Replace plug with new sealing washer. Remove oil filter. Fit new oil filter. Pour in 5 litres of whatever oil you fancy. Start engine. Check for leaks. Replace undertray. Job done.

 

...at least that's what I'm assuming having never done it myself.

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No need to take the undertray off....

 

The sump plug is visible from underneath... crack it off... let the oil run into a catchcan...

 

Take the oil filter off.... replace...

 

Put the sump plug back in

 

Put in around 5l's of the finest oil (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc)

 

Check the level, let it stand for 5 mins, check it again...

 

Job done..

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Of course what you will actually do is:

 

Forget to warm the engine until half the oil has drained out.

Not be able to get the oil filter undone.

Find you have the wrong oil filter just after you put a screwdriver through the old one.

Forget to put the sump plug in before you start refilling it.

 

:D

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No need to take the undertray off....

 

The sump plug is visible from underneath... crack it off... let the oil run into a catchcan...

 

Take the oil filter off.... replace...

 

Put the sump plug back in

 

Put in around 5l's of the finest oil (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc)

 

Check the level, let it stand for 5 mins, check it again...

 

Job done..

The oil filter isnt accessible without taking the undertray down is it?

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Best way of getting to the filter is from above, take the battery out, unbolt the power steering reservour to give yourself a bit more room and reach in from the front. Good tip is to put a plastic bag round the filter when you take it off - it will drop into the bag and make less mess.

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i just moved power steering reservour out of way and did it from top. fitted oil relocating kit for an easier time in future. my first oil change i have done on supra, also done one on a astra and a escort. very easy to do.

 

do a search as someone once posted a guide how to do it.

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Can you get under the car alright, there's not much room?

 

No need to remove anything from car to obtain access.

 

Access to filter is from above, when you put the filter smear a bit of fresh oil on the rubber seal on the filter. Make sure your hands are oil free and tighten it by hand only, just twist it clockwise as tight as you can get it by hand.

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i have a rather nasty syndrome its called COOCD@3000K (compulsive obsesive oil change disorder every 3000 miles) so have a little knowledge on the subject, the best way i have found is to remove the bolts holding the PAS resouvoir (3 off) and unclip the harness attached to PAS bracket, just cable tie it forward out of the way there is enough flex on the hoses and it wont leak, undo the filter with it in a plastic bag as previously stated and lift it out of the top and lastly dont do it on your block paved drive or you will get BBW syndrome (battered by wife) i had this once and it was'nt nice

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Just bought a n/a manual last week, am planning to do

an oil change soon. Was planning on flushing the engine,

then using magnatec 10/40, used to use magnatec in my

twin turbo 300zx, was ok for that, so i presume it's ok

for a n/a supra?

Will a toyota dealer stock a filter for a n/a, seeing as they

were all imports? Or are they the same as the TT?

 

Cheerz...Simon

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Nice tip about the bag.

 

One of the things that strike me reading Toyota's manuals is the number "30" when it comes to oil

10w30 this, 5w30 that.

Unlike other manufacturers that normally specify 10w40 or 15w50

 

To me this says that at operating temps the designers don't want oil thicker than SAE30. Seeing the threads about blown crank seals there may be something important in adhering to the manuals.

How people even consider 10w60 is beyond me - especially pushing the engine with oil still cold will certainly create oil pressures to make your eyes water :violin:

 

I've read a theory of an american regarding the drilling of the hole of the piston of the oil relief, and he might have a point there too.

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Nice tip about the bag.

 

One of the things that strike me reading Toyota's manuals is the number "30" when it comes to oil

10w30 this, 5w30 that.

Unlike other manufacturers that normally specify 10w40 or 15w50

 

To me this says that at operating temps the designers don't want oil thicker than SAE30. Seeing the threads about blown crank seals there may be something important in adhering to the manuals.

How people even consider 10w60 is beyond me - especially pushing the engine with oil still cold will certainly create oil pressures to make your eyes water :violin:

 

I've read a theory of an american regarding the drilling of the hole of the piston of the oil relief, and he might have a point there too.

 

I have no issues running 10 60 a

even at 2 bar ++ on a big single , if you saw the pressure at the back of the block (not near the filter) youd know why i run it !!!

 

Dude :complain:

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I have no issues running 10 60 a

even at 2 bar ++ on a big single , if you saw the pressure at the back of the block (not near the filter) youd know why i run it !!!

 

Dude :complain:

Ah, if experience dictates otherwise, fair enough then.

 

(reminds me that I've got to fit an oil pressure gauge, strange how Toyota felt it's unimportant on their flagship 'sports' model. Same with voltmeter, WTF, the CalibraTurbo had them from the factory...)

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