monsween Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) Drove the car home today and car was overheating more than normal (just had the FMIC fitted) Using the stock gauge, it was never in the red (2 bars below max) When driving with very minimal boost the needle rises up. So limped home with the temperature in the middle. So had a search and found that it could be the rad cap. Getting one of those but was looking for advice on ducting for the radiator. EDIT: Just had a look to check for leaks and the expansion tank was near empty. It was full and after an hour it was empty. Cheers Kieran Edited May 8, 2009 by monsween (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy W Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I had this after having mine fitted. Having the fmic fitted will show up any problems in your cooling system, as you effectively halving the radiators cooling capabilities. I'd check for. airlock, rad cap and then the thermostat. Hopefully it's one of the three cheap options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 I seen your post, was going with the rad cap first THere was some air when i opened up the radiator and it subsequently drunk all the coolant when i came up the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Have you got a FMIC cover, this may help a bit as it will chanel air throught the FMIC and rads and not over them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy W Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I seen your post, was going with the rad cap first Feck knows how many overheating threads I've had Maybe worth while just renewing them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 by FMIC cover do you mean slam panel? if so yes i do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) You need to ensure that air is going through the FMIC not round it. It really needs some ducting to force air to go though the FMIC. Sealing up any gaps at the edges between the rad and FMIC, will ensure that what ever air has been through the IC, also makes it through the radiator. Have you still got stock under trays? Sound like your rad cap has had it. Edited May 8, 2009 by Terminator (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 no i dont have the undertrays anymore, the garage didnt put them back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I would get some, they are very important, they make a huge difference to where air moves through the bay. I would suggest this is 85% of your problem. The garage owe you a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 If the rad is tired a front mount may ensure it can no longer cope. Some late model TT's have the thin core rad from an N/A, I can supply a new thick core rad that'll fit if that's the case. I may be getting an excellent used thick core rad in next week, not sure yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 can you PM me a price please? Just incase its not the rad cap. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmoot Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I just got my car fixed. My FMIC was mounted at a slight angle by the previous owner (very slight. You can only see it from the side if you take the bumper off) and because of this not even the mighty standard fan can cope. Also, we discovered that the cylinder head was either porous or has micro cracks which can't be seen by 2 engine reconditioners. We replaced the head gasket (first diagnosis) but it didn't help. Ended up getting used head. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I would get some, they are very important, they make a huge difference to where air moves through the bay. I would suggest this is 85% of your problem. The garage owe you a set. If I fit an aftermarket front bumper, there will be no where for me to fix the front undertray thing too. Is it ok to run without it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I'd say your rad has had it, fit a new one and worry no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) Has anyone got any advice on ducting the FMIC to help with my water temp overheating problem? Thought the Rad cap had sorted my issues but alas it hasnt. No overheating unless at motorway speeds for longer than 15mins. I have a stock bumper Edited June 5, 2009 by monsween (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 A rough artists impression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 You need a new radiator - everything else is a sticking plaster. Expanding foam and plasticard sheets have been used to seal IC's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 So new radiator or uprated radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel lane Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 get it reconditioned, it will work out better the a new one or an aftermaket alloy unit ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 cool, i'll have a look into that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmoot Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Your issue sounds similar to mine. With mine, there was no overheating at low power, even when I was stuck in traffic jam for 20 minutes. As soon as I apply power (open the throttle more than 20%ish) the temperature gauge starts creeping up. If I stop applying power the temp gauge stays, but as soon as I apply power again it starts moving up, etc. Turned out to be a micro crack within the head (or in your case it is possible to be a minor BHG too) which was too small for "low" combustion pressure to push through but allowed "medium to high" pressure to seep through. This heated up the coolant and resulted in boiling/overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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