Wez Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Interesting. What options are there on a 2JZ-GTE for oil temp and pressure sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 I've put some wrap around my sender unit, so I guess we'll see. I'll upload the picture in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Quite hard to take a picture that close to the underside of the car but here goes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thats it kev;) that should do the trick, matches your screemer pipe too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thats it kev;) that should do the trick, matches your screemer pipe too. I can see how the wind would effect the correct temperature. I thought it was protected by the undertray when you first mentioned it. Thanks for the tip. I added the photo for future reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Fitted mine at weekend in an adapter plate and at normal running it was showing 160f which is about 70c would love to know what you should be seeing and what preasures as i fitted a preasure gauge also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Fitted mine at weekend in an adapter plate and at normal running it was showing 160f which is about 70c would love to know what you should be seeing and what preasures as i fitted a preasure gauge also That would make my 60c plus the 10c that I was loosing sound about right. I'm going on a long journey in a few days time, so I'll get my passenger to note down the readings as we go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks for the pic Kev, will do the same on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Well I'm not saying there isn't a difference in temps between the oil in the filter and the oil in the sump I'm just not saying a sandwich plate will give artificially high readings over what the oil really is at the filter. Which is how I read your post. Although i have no real proof this is my logic, a sandwich plate is a big chunk of alloy which as you know alluminium is extensively used as heat sink material, sit this chunk of alloy on your water/oil cooler and next to a very hot engine block and surely its going to absorb some heat then pass the heat into your oil thermocouple.Ive just picked up 1 of those infrared temperature readers and will do a few tests next time my cars out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Although i have no real proof this is my logic, a sandwich plate is a big chunk of alloy which as you know alluminium is extensively used as heat sink material, sit this chunk of alloy on your water/oil cooler and next to a very hot engine block and surely its going to absorb some heat then pass the heat into your oil thermocouple.Ive just picked up 1 of those infrared temperature readers and will do a few tests next time my cars out. I'm inclined to agree with that, the whole oil filter/cooler assembly is all alloy and is connected to one of the hottest parts of the engine bar exhaust, the cylinder block, and although water cooled the cast iron changes temp slower than alloy, so despite the water it will transfer heat redly into the alloy i would have thought? When my thermocouple was in the sandwich plate the oil temp was always hotter than the water, even after i fitted an oil cooler, but once moved to the sump they pretty much equalised when cruising. Did a little trawling and found the the average oil temps range between 82c and 104c (all car engines not supra specific) and also hot oil viscosity quoted by oil companies is measured at 100C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 I couldn't help but notice my oil temperature increase whilst sat in the traffic to Ace's cafe. It peaked at about 105c and the water temperature increased a little over 'normal' after about 30 mins of sitting in traffic. Does this sound right? I never had an oil temperature sensor when running the stock set up, so just wanted to check. Also out of interest, what temperature is the water when the gauge is sat dead in between low and high on the OEM gauge? What would the temperature of the water be, when the needle gets to a little below the red? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 I couldn't help but notice my oil temperature increase whilst sat in the traffic to Ace's cafe. It peaked at about 105c and the water temperature increased a little over 'normal' after about 30 mins of sitting in traffic. Does this sound right? I never had an oil temperature sensor when running the stock set up, so just wanted to check. Also out of interest, what temperature is the water when the gauge is sat dead in between low and high on the OEM gauge? What would the temperature of the water be, when the needle gets to a little below the red? Can anyone help answer the questions above? It's always nice to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 here would be my logic (and thats all it is!)......... 1) Toyota call it an oil cooler 2) It works by having coolant run through a housing (ali with good conductivity) through which the oil also passes. 3) The coolant in a pressurised system will be upto/greater than 105 degrees C 4) So the 'cooler' cannot have been expected/designed to keep the oil at a lower temp than this......just to try stop it exceeding this by much? Like I say just my logic which if correct means that 105 is ok/to be expected...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 (edited) I have a non standard engine. My oil temperature take off point is in my sandwich plate, next to the out flow from the engine. The thermostatic plate and filter are bolted to the chassis leg just below the power steering pump. I have -12 lines to and from the engine and to and from my wing mounted, ducted air cooler. Due to my box /diff set up I run more rpm/mph than most cars for each gear(six speed). So in effect the engine will be running hotter under the same load/speed conditions as a standard engine. In all the mapping and tests we did on the car I have never seen the stock water gauge indicate more than half. In fact the needle is pretty much just to the left of centre all the time, no matter how I drive, but I have retained the stock fan and housing, as the design can't be bettered in IMHO. Had I seen higher needle positions I would have fitted a water temp gauge. As for oil I normally run at 70 mph cruising at around 90 to 95 degrees. When I use the 8750rpm limit in bursts of spirited driving, I see 100 - 105. In the most severe mapping session to date, holding long WOT pulls to the red line at 8750, when ambient air temps were mid to high 70's we saw 115 on the oil temp gauge. I have my warning set just above that, as I believe Silkoline 10W-60 synth, to start to sheer at 125 degrees. I do need to keep moving though to get those high temps down, if I become static after such high temps the cooler struggles to bring temperatures off the gauge. It does come down but slower than I would like. I had considered a fan triggered by the AEM, but was concerned that it would actually restrict the cooler when it was not sucking air. I try not to push the rpm above 3750 until I see 90 degrees on the gauge. One of the functions of the sump is to cool oil, so measuring at the sump lug is not the best place IMHO. When we chopped the front wheel drive section out of our Stagea(sp) RB25 GTST sump, the design of the sump was obviously to aid cooling, with so many dead end channels going out to each side of the sump to sit in the air flow under the car. I am sure Toyota would have covered the sump with another under tray if they wanted to sump to retain heat. Edited October 23, 2009 by Terminator (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodilx6 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I've got mine in an adaptor plate. 100% stock JDM engine, BPU. i see aprox 100c when cruising town, 110c on motorway and 130 when going fast on the autobahn or going full on at the ring (probably more if i didn't let off at 130c). I'll be fitting a HKS oil cooler kit soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I've got mine in an adaptor plate. 100% stock JDM engine, BPU. i see aprox 100c when cruising town, 110c on motorway and 130 when going fast on the autobahn or going full on at the ring (probably more if i didn't let off at 130c). I'll be fitting a HKS oil cooler kit soon. 130 is hot many synthetic oils start to sheer above 120. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodilx6 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I also change oil after a trip like that. Just thought it might be good to know for other j-spec owners without an oil temp gauge. - its also why I'm getting me the HKS oil cooler this weekend so its ready for the next season Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Just resurrecting this as I've been reading through the Supra Features brochure and it shows the cooling system for the 2JZ-GTE. The oil path is: Sump Strainer Pump Filter Oil cooler Everything else So the most practical place to put a sensor to get the hottest temperature read is a sandwich plate at the oil filter It's the oil temp immediately before it goes through the cooler. -Ian Note I said "most practical place" before anyone meeps about it not being the actual hottest place in the whole engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Of course the most practical place to put a sensor, would you want to remove the sump and weld in a bung if you didn't have to. Meep! However having had a thermocouple in both locations, and finding that the temps are lower in the sump, and given that the oil path is sump, pump, oil filter, cooler and on to the rest of the engine, where its subjected to the combustion and friction processes, you would expect in theory that the temps would be hotter in the sump. So would seem to indicate that the sump itself is a pretty good cooling device in its own right, in fact better than the factory cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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