carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 I am trying to straighten the steering wheel after the wheel alignment was done. The spline on the steering wheel is either too far left or too far right, so I want to adjust the track rods. I can see the 15mm and 19mm hex, onto which I can only fit an open ended spanner. I guess a flare-nut spanner would be better, and I do have a 15mm one of those but not a 19mm one. The nut seems very tight though. Are there any tricks and is there anything I definitely shouldn't do e.g. apply torque to the track rod itself/u-joint? cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 (edited) I am trying to straighten the steering wheel after the wheel alignment was done. The spline on the steering wheel is either too far left or too far right, so I want to adjust the track rods. Take it back and get the steering wheel alignment done correctly! The wheel shouldn't be on the piss after the tracking has been done properly. Are there any tricks and is there anything I definitely shouldn't do e.g. apply torque to the track rod itself/u-joint? How are you going to do this with norsing up the tracking again? If you move the track rod ends your alignment will bewrong again. Edited May 2, 2009 by Jake (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Jake is right, you shouldn't have to do this. If you want to do it yourself, why don't you remove the steering wheel and line it up properly - better than working underneath the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Take it back and get the steering wheel alignment done correctly! The wheel shouldn't be on the piss after the tracking has been done properly. How are you going to do this with norsing up the tracking again? If you move the track rod ends your alignment will bewrong again. Alignment was done quite some time ago. Also, I had the alignment done on my last Supra by a different person and that came back with a wonky steering wheel too. I suspect it's a case of the aligner seeing the alignment as the important thing and not really considering the steering wheel, which I agree could do with not being the case, because it's rather annoying and makes you think the car's not right. Anyhoo, the idea is that I'll mark the top of the adjustment nut on each end, and do the same number of turns on each side of the car. The end result should be an adjusted steering wheel and the alignment staying the same. If you want to do it yourself, why don't you remove the steering wheel and line it up properly - better than working underneath the car. Like I said, the wheel is either too far left or too far right - the splines on the steering column are no good for this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 I am trying to straighten the steering wheel after the wheel alignment was done. The spline on the steering wheel is either too far left or too far right, so I want to adjust the track rods. why don't you remove the steering wheel and line it up properly Actually Carl did explain that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Actually Carl did explain that. Beat ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 I might try just one nudge to the left on the spline, but I'm sure I've tried that before.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 (edited) Actually Carl did explain that. No he didn't, I can read. He said that the wheel wasn't aligned correctly. The spline on the steering wheel is either too far left or too far right, so I want to adjust the track rods. Tell me why you can't remove the wheel and line it up properly? Edited May 2, 2009 by merckx (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 No he didn't, I can read. Yes he did, and no you can't. He said that the wheel wasn't aligned correctly. Tell me why you can't remove the wheel and line it up properly. Did you see the bit I highlighted, to do with the splines? You can't just put the steering wheel in any position you like; it'll only go on in the postions where the spline on the column lines up with the spline in the steering wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 it'll only go on in the postions where the spline on the column lines up with the spline in the steering wheel. I didn't realise that it only went on in one position and couldn't be be adjusted a little. Why does the workshop manual say for removal "Place matchmarks on the wheel and main shaft" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 I didn't realise that it only went on in one position and couldn't be be adjusted a little. Why does the workshop manual say for removal "Place matchmarks on the wheel and main shaft" ? It can be adjusted, but the splines are exactly that - splines. There are a set number of splines, say 50 around the circumference, that would mean there are 50 possible positions for the wheel each 7.2 degrees apart and I need to move the wheel 4 degrees, for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Anyway, I had a go at the trackrod ends, and it ain't happening. It's 14mm on the trackrod and 19mm on the nut, and my 14mm open-ended spanner isn't a good enough fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Anyway, I had a go at the trackrod ends, and it ain't happening. It's 14mm on the trackrod and 19mm on the nut, and my 14mm open-ended spanner isn't a good enough fit. Its the 19mm lock nuts you need to loosen, and i thought the flats on the track rods are 13mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 (edited) It can be adjusted,. I know. To hold he track rod end if one spanner is slipping, try using 2 spanners together or an adjustable spanner adjusted tightly. Because the adjustable spanner is wider then a normal spanner it's less likely to slip off. It might be 13 mm like Tricky-Ricky has suggested. Locking adjustable spanners are useful. Edited May 2, 2009 by merckx (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Its the 19mm lock nuts you need to loosen, and i thought the flats on the track rods are 13mm. Might explain why my spanner slipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 There are also flats on the ball joint end that you can slip a suitable spanner on and wedge against the shock which will avoid straining the ball joint, thats what i did with mine, but had to use heat on one of them, as it was jammed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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