Homer Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 1) Can anyone see any issue with the setup in the picture below? The cooker supply is on it's own fuse on the mainboard, it has a 6mm cable to the control box (45 amp), which then has a 6mm cable to a standard double socket. The new cooker and hob (Gas so only has an ignitor on it) has a standard 13 amp plug which go into the socket. Should the control box be changed to a 32 amp one? 2) I've read on the interweb that the hood extract fan should not be on the same curcuit as the control board. Is that correct or can I splice the wiring into the control board? For info, it used to have the same control box and wiring, but had a different box where the oven and hub were hard wired direct to the control box. The extract fan was also spliced into the control box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 It is ok on a 45amp switch as it will have a lower amp fuse in the plug top which will protect the hob. As for the extract hood I hav'nt heard anything in sparky world about it cant go on the same circuit, but I would put it on the kitchen socket circuit through a fuse spur with a 7 amp fuse in it. I work on more commercial buildings so domestic regs could be different due to part p. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Yeh you'll be ok, the 6mm cable is there for a higher load, as the previous post says as long as the plugs are fused correctly then it will be fine, because if there is a fault the fuse there will blow first. If you can get the fused spur off the kitchen ring it would be better practice, having said that i dont know what work is involved. If your in the mess of a refit go with this option. Its not good practice to come off the cooker circuit, however.................. your not running a cooker from it (get where i am going with this)? The 45amp cooker switch is effectively becoming a local isolator for the plug socket below. As long as its fused correctly then all will be ok. only thing you wont get is a Part P cert if you need one, if your not planning on moving or informing building control then well............. What do you mean by splicing? this is concerning!!!!!!!!!!! richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 Thanks guys If you can get the fused spur off the kitchen ring it would be better practice, having said that i dont know what work is involved. If your in the mess of a refit go with this option. Its not good practice to come off the cooker circuit, however.................. your not running a cooker from it (get where i am going with this)? The 45amp cooker switch is effectively becoming a local isolator for the plug socket below. As long as its fused correctly then all will be ok. only thing you wont get is a Part P cert if you need one, if your not planning on moving or informing building control then well............. What do you mean by splicing? this is concerning!!!!!!!!!!! richie I'm refitting so can run wires where needed right now. It's probably bad wording, but by spliced I mean that the control box has a pair of wires connected to the out - one is the 6mm cable to the (now) standard dual plug, a second which appears to be a 3-4mm cable to the extractor fan (currently disconnected as I wasn't sure if it's the correct way to do it). I am planning on selling at some point in then future so it will need signing off. My brother-in-law is an electrician so hopefully can check it over and give a sign off (he's out of communication for a few weeks due to a holiday) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 In that case it needs to be done as per regs if he's going to sign it off, that means spuring out the kitchen ring to a fused spur for the extractor, 2.5mm twin and earth cable will be fine for that. You see now its going to have to have an RCD in the circuit, unless your board is already updated, cable has to be capped under the plaster remember. there is a fair amount of things to bear in mind, if you have any probs just fire away with questions there is enough of us on here with sparking knowledge to point you in the right direction. Richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeoFuture Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 umm dont you need one of them cooker/hob wall things, i dont think you can just plug them !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 In that case it needs to be done as per regs if he's going to sign it off, that means spuring out the kitchen ring to a fused spur for the extractor, 2.5mm twin and earth cable will be fine for that. You see now its going to have to have an RCD in the circuit, unless your board is already updated, cable has to be capped under the plaster remember. there is a fair amount of things to bear in mind, if you have any probs just fire away with questions there is enough of us on here with sparking knowledge to point you in the right direction. Richie Thanks Richie, much appreciate the advice But can you dumb it down a little for me please The entire curcuit for this has it's own fuse on the main Fuse board, nothing else in the house is using it. In the pic below the area in red is behind plaster. The area in green shows where the cable drops below the worktop. This area has just a shielded 32 amp cable going to the standard double socket. I can box this in with a wire protector, but it will not be possible to plaster over. Regarding the extractor, the wiring is already behind plaster but has no additional fuse between it and the cooker control unit. If I continue to use this, will it need an additional fuse box, or can I just use the standard kitchen sockets to spur it from? EDIT - forgot to add pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 cant see that being a problem darryl ,electricians coming next week to fit a double point in the base unit , one for the oven the other for the hob ignition. then one in a wall unit for the extractor spur should be ok the wiring for the kitchen im fitting atm was put in prior to the room being boarded, atm there is a junction box on the wall ready for the spur for the extractor. the fuse will be in the plug of the extractor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 sorry didnt get back to you on this, how did it go? richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 No problem Richie, I fitted it as above and all is working perfectly Still not sure whether the extract needs to be on a separate circuit, but my brother in law (the electrician) says it's okay to wire it to the control box as it is now. Edit: Thanks to everyone for the input This forum never ceases to surprise how helpful and knowledgeable people can be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Extractor should really be on the kitchen ring, but it'll be ok as is, as your not pulling much load, get the brother in law to give it once over when he is back. Richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.