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Another Oil Query!


Grix

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So went out to pick up an Oil filter, and some Oil today, Went to Euro Car Parts, Due to having a couple of mates who work there.

 

Bearing in mind I'm a N/A, the chap comes back with the figures of Castrol Sport 10/60 ( The first thing at this point that came into my head was, I'm sure M3's use this oil, and it is very top notch?) But i was assured even after questioning that this was defo the oil, and he was even kind enough to mention it needs "4.4l" ( Clearly found out this was not the case.)

 

So after draining, changing the oil, fetching more oil because there wasn't enough, I then recieve a text off my mate saying there should be 5/40 or around that going in there.

 

What I want to know is, How will this effect the car? Using an expensive high powered Oil, where it's not neccersary ?

 

Cheers:search:

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2JZ-GE Engine Oil (NA (Non Turbo) Engine on a MKIV (JDM only))

Stock = 5w30 Semi Synthetic

I recommend Fully Synthetic 5w30-10w40

Dry Capacity 6.2L's

5w30 - Motul 300V

5w40 - Motul 300V, Silkolene Pro S

Change capacity 4.8-5.8L's

I'd recommened Silkolene Pro S 5w40.

Being less stressed that the GTE version any Fully Synthetic oil between a 5w30 and 10w40 should suffice.

Interval = 9-12,000miles depending on use

 

There you go bud,

I would say that i would not leave it in to long but should be ok for morning but get it changed this weekend bud its allways best sticking to the oil that is recommended by people that no there stuff, iam betting it wont to any harm short term but get it changed bud 10/40 is highest they are saying there !!!

 

Link to opie oils, its where i get my oil from !! http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1146-silkolene-pro-s-5w-40-ester-synthetic-oil-for-high-performance-engines.aspx

Edited by j1mb0b1 (see edit history)
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You can't put too good an oil into a performance engine.

 

But the grade (e.g. 5/40 or 10/50) isn't a measure of how good it is, that is instead a guide to its characteristics at cold/hot temperatures. Think of the numbers as being linked to the engine/oil temperature: the smaller number being linked to the minimum temperature it needs to be to offer protection, the bigger number being linked to the hottest it can be before performance drops off. Therefore, the lower they both are the less heat they need to hit those performance marks and the higher they are, the hotter it'll need to get to offer that minimum protection level but the harder you can push it before exceeding the oil's capabilities.

 

To over simplify the above: the higher the performance of the engine the higher the two numbers will need to be to suit that engine. Then chuck ambient temperature into the mix and adjust if necessary: cruising about during the winter will mean cooler running temperatures so an oil with lower numbers may be necessary than what's used in the summer. A hot day spent at the track might require an oil with higher numbers. You get the idea.

 

However, an oil with higher numbers might not reach its full operating temperature in a lower spec engine, so it won't offer the protection that an oil with a 'lower' rating (that HAS reached it's full operating temperatue) would. Using a lower weighted oil in a high spec engine risks overcooking it and not offering full protection. Make sense?

 

To complicate the matter slightly, you can get crap oil at grades typically used for performance/race engines, so to fully understand whether you're using "good" oil, you need to look at the composition of the oil AND the grade. Watch words like "Semi-synthetic", they mean very little. Fully synthetic, ester-based, is as good as it gets so I'm led to believe. :)

(e.g. Silkolene Pro-S or Pro-R you'll see mentioned on here a lot.)

 

So a BPU ~380bhp TT might run Pro-S 5/40, but a ~550bhp Single turbo like mine would need 10/50.

 

HTH

Edited by SteveR (see edit history)
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