paul mac Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Paul did you simply just chop off both pipe connections on the ICV or leave them in situ? no they were left on and the water connections just looped together, however since having the intake off for new throttle bodies I have chopped the water connections off the IACV, i have also blocked the throttle body water connection properly and will do the IACV water connections at a later date, i dont like looped hoses kicking around its just another thing to go wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 I'm thinking of just chopping these two pipes off. Can anyone see any issues with me doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I'm thinking of just chopping these two pipes off. Can anyone see any issues with me doing this? I'm hopefully going to be fitting this back on the car soon, so would love an answer please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I'm hopefully going to be fitting this back on the car soon, so would love an answer please i thought i had answered your question, but a picture paints a thousand words this is my old one and the chopped one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Thanks Paul. So would I need to weld up where I cut the old pipes off? I was unsure as to whether they had any effect on anything other than the heating up of the ICV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Thanks Paul. So would I need to weld up where I cut the old pipes off? I was unsure as to whether they had any effect on anything other than the heating up of the ICV. Kev you are correct in the fact that the water connection does nothing more than heat the valve, there is no welding required, i chopped the whole water connection part off as i was board , you could just cut the pipes off and it would still look neat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Thanks Paul. Will update this thread with pictures once I've fitted the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Incase anyone is interested, this is what I done: I then ran a new pipe from the tube coming around the back of the engine, and connected it to the front of the engine (I also cable tied the pipe from the BOV to it). I used an existing spare M6 threaded hole for a clamp to hold it in position: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd-mkiv Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Time for a Thread revival I have a cut and shut pipe from the back of the water pump that Tees off, one part to the heater matrix the other to a spigot on the block that I assume used to feed the oil cooler. Being as its a few years on and hopefully more projects have been done can I just blank the oil cooler spigot off and fabricate a new pipe from the back of the water pump direct to the heater matrix??? I don't want any risk of hot spots in the engine if its best to keep the spigot plumbed inline as is ill remake the lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I am assuming that all the engine cooling is catered for internally, so in theory you only need the rad in and out. For single DBB setups where do people plumb the water return, I know the water feed is normally done from the top water elbow. You are correct, you just *NEED* the top elbow and the bottom thermostat housing. But beware removing the TB heating, a cold damp day on track can see the body freeze up and a potential stuck open throttle scenario. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd-mkiv Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 You are correct, you just *NEED* the top elbow and the bottom thermostat housing. But beware removing the TB heating, a cold damp day on track can see the body freeze up and a potential stuck open throttle scenario. Sounds fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viper Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Thread revival: Having just got the drag car up and running, i got down the strip yesterday for the first time at low speeds to check systems and after 3 runs i found the coolant system dumping coolant. Having just read this whole thread and the other posted im aware this may be the case of the fact i have used a bypass pipe where the heater matrix once was. would this cause over heating? i have ordered a new rad cap just in case and also to blanking plugs for the inlet and outlet of the block for the matrix pipes. Iv also removed the thermostat to allow constant flow. im hoping im not to late and i haven't done the head gasket in, but the car was just plodding around and not under huge load when this happened and was running absolutely fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 You should NOT remove the thermostat, it forms a calibrated restriction that is near vital in giving correct coolant flow patterns through the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Crikey thread revival From memory it was decided it was better practice to block the matrix feeds rather than join them, this is because the matrix forms a restriction which would help balance the flow through the matrix and head, with the matrix feeds blocked the flow has to go through the head, with a bypass pipe fitted you could end up starving the head of needed flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viper Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 You should NOT remove the thermostat, it forms a calibrated restriction that is near vital in giving correct coolant flow patterns through the engine. thanks for this - i shall buy a new one to be safe as the engine was sitting for 2 years. just trying to remove all potential issues causing the dumping of coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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