How To: Check the diagnostics codes

[Ian C]

When things go wrong with engine components, sensors, etc. there is a chance that it's going to be a failure mode that your ECU will recognise. Usually, you'll know something has happened because the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, the red exclamation mark) lights up.

 

The ECU stores an error code so that you can check later what the problem is/was. Rather than requiring a bug diagnostics machine, you can use a simple paperclip, or a short loop of wire. You use this to bridge the connections E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics port ( Location, 4th thumbnail along )

 

For VVTi use Tc and E1 (from this thread)

 

Update - Make sure you have de-immobilised your car! Some immobilisers stop the engine light from flashing.

 

This makes the ECU flash the orange check engine light (not the red MIL light) when the ignition is switched to position 2. If it's a regular flash then there are no stored codes. Otherwise it will blink a few times, pause, blink a few times, and then give a longer pause. That's one stored code, and the number of blinks is the digit, so:

blinkblinkblink pause blink pauuuuuse

 

Is code 31. You may have more than one stored code, so it'll work its way through them from lowest to highest. It will then loop back to the start again.

 

For example, if you had a misfire and you also had a problem with your speed delimiter you may find you got:

 

blink pause blinkblinkblinkblink pauuuuuse blinkblinkblinkblink pause blinkblink pauuuuuse repeat

 

Which is code 14 (problem in ignition circuit) and code 42 (No1 speed sensor problem)

 

These codes are stored indefinitely and only cleared when you reset the ECU in some way (fuse removal, battery disconnect/flatten). This means you may have some red herring codes stored if you are at the initial stages of diagnosing a problem, so resetting the ECU, triggering the problem, and then reading the codes is the best method.

 

-Ian

Edited August 10, 2008 by Pete
Misleading warning light description (see edit history)

[markssupra]

mate, sorry to hear you got probs already.

 

If I am reading the manual correctly, fault code 42 is No.1 speed sensor. 2JZ-GE engine

 

All conditions below are detected continuosly for 8 sec or more.

(a) No. 1 speed signal: 0 km/h (mph)

(b) Engine speed : Between 2,000 rpm and 4,500 rpm

© Coolant temp : 80° C or more

(d) Load driving

 

Trouble area.

No.1 speed sensor

combination meter

open or short circuit in No. 1 speed sensor circuit

ECU

[Ian C]

Dodgy speed convertor/delimiter

 

This is a regular occurence so I don't mind it in the FAQ but if you want to discuss it further please fire up a thread in Technical

 

-Ian

[Rowland]

Hi.

 

I may have completely lost the plot here but shorting TE1 and E1 doesn't seem to work for me! I have an L Reg UK spec mkIV. When I short them and then turn the key to position 2 I get a couple of seconds of interesting clunking noises from the engine bay and then two constant flashing indicators, the "over drive off" one and the orange engine warning light at the left of the right hand bank of warning indicator lights.

I was expecting the MIL (big red exclamation mark in the centre) to at least flash constantly and more likely give me a bunch of codes. It remained completely constant with no flashing at all...

 

I'm quite sure I connected up the right terminals as they are marked on the label in the diagnostic port cover.

 

Any ideas as to what I've done wrong?

 

Thanks,

Rowland

[Ian C]

It's the orange engine one that you should be looking at.

[Jake]

It's the orange engine one that you should be looking at.

It is, but that's not what it says above.

I've noticed a few people being confused by this. I think the first post should be corrected where it says "this makes the ECU flash the MIL when the ignition is switched to position 2"

[Rowland]

Thanks for the help.

 

Rowland

[Ian C]

Correctamundo, edited and apologies for any confusion

 

-Ian

[123tom123tom]

hi idid what has been said on this post and my orange engine light along with the o/d light just flashes repeatedly what does this mean

[madmunky]

Mine flashing repeatedly too, dont anyone know what that means?

[Jazzy]

Means no stored codes.

[merckx]

wow i have that exact same problem when slowing down at the bottom of a hill too!!! anyone have that page?!

 

 

Here are pages EG-686 to EG-688.

Edited February 9, 2009 by merckx (see edit history)

[merckx]

A member on here kindly made some copies of the workshop manual for fellow members.

 

 

BE-71 to 74 , BE is "Body Electrical" are available in the manual below.

 

http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/pages/technical/jza80/a80tsrm.htm

 

 

EG-686 to EG-688 , I couldn't find these in the online manual so I scanned them from my workshop manual.

[Ian C]

Technical questions should be posted in the technical section and not nailed onto an FAQ article, thanks.

 

Ker-prune.

 

-Ian

[Jellybean]

Hey

 

 

1. How do I know what pins are E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics port?
   
2. It is the Engine light that emits the code OR the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light)?
   

[Ricardod]

its on the underside of the cap.

[Jellybean]

its on the underside of the cap.

 

Yes, pins E1 and TE1 are marked on the underside, the engine light emits the pulses

[Monster supra]

Which fuse do you remove to clear the error codes ?

[fastnfurious]

EFI #1 fuse for 5-10 seconds... then plug it back in and start your car... that's about it!

[EMPEROR]

Guys, I have a VVTi engine. Trying to figure out why my DBW is not working. Did connect the Tc and E1, but check engine light is not blinking. The only thing blinking is the airbag light. Blinking constantly. I have de-immobilised the car as suggested in the first post. But check engine is still lit permanently and does not go out when the engine starts. Any ideas what am I doing wrong? Or maybe just the problem is not common, so no error code is recorded?

[NOODLE]

ok my engine light doesnt flash due to the immobilizer hhhmmm i think this is a garaged job :-/

[Dazzi]

Press your fob to disarm the system

[kargato]

Hey guys sorry to revive an old thread but I have a problem with my supra.

 

The MIL light stays on all the time. When i short the two pins on the dlc2 (tower brace blocks access to dlc1) the slip count and abs lights flash repeatedly.. I have read that it should be the check engine light and the overdrive that should flash? can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

 

 

Johnny.

[shifted]

I have a 2000 JDM RZ, recently the car died on me at random at low kms (sub 10km/hr) and wouldn't start for a good 20minutes (apparently could be coil packs??)

 

Car has travelled 54,xxxkms (genuine) - and I tried running diagnostics.

 

Diagnostic port under the dash (circular one, found out later it is disconnected LOL) bridged TC & E1 - my indicators flashed 15 times, nothing else, weird though seeing that port isn't connected??

 

Or maybe that meant code 78?

 

OBDII connecter under the dash - haven't tried anything as don't have a diagram and ports aren't labelled.

 

Diagnostic port in the engine bay - can't bridge TE1 & E1 (TE1 has no pin) so bridged TC & E1 (these have pins, and now reading this thread makes sense seeing it is VVT-i) - my "snow" flashed on the dash, and my "abs" light flashed. No other lights flashed. At random though sometimes the airbag light flashed.

 

Maybe I accidently reset the ECU as initially I checked all the fuses thinking it was a fuse that was the problem hence no flashes? But why all the other random flashes?

 

Spent a good few hours on it last night and annoying a guru with my questions and still couldn't figure it out.

Edited August 17, 2012 by shifted (see edit history)

[Kaan W]

Ive just tried this as I have both (!) warning lights on but nothings happening. Does the engine have to be running? I turned ignition to the 2 position and pressed the immobiliser as if I was gunno start the engine.