adi2009 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 (edited) I ve just started out to rebuild my Supra, basically I m putting in a brand new shortblock, head, gearbox, diff, suspension and brakes. A brief history of my car, well it was originally an NA 5spd Supra which I converted to a TT 6spd (due to the lack of availability of good used supra's in India). This conversion was done about three years ago, I imported a used TT lump from Malaysia and sourced a 6spd gearbox from the UK. However, the mileage on the engine is unknown and there is a slight whine from the gearbox. Additionally, the car just seems to be getting old and I felt that it needs a rebuild especially since I have gone for a single turbo and want it to last for a while reliably. Here is the specs I am going for: brand new stock blueprinted shortblock (blueprinted by MVP Motorsports) PHR modified oil pump APR head studs Driftworks oil cooler kit brand new stock head HKS 264 In/Ex camshafts PHR valve springs & Titanium retainers T61 turbo kit Power Enterprise 650cc Injectors Autronic SM4 ECU Autronic 500R CDI Brand new Getrag V160 gearbox RPS Max clutch UK spec brakes Complete suspension overhaul (want to go with some coilovers but havent decided which ones yet) TRD thermostat iForged Daytona wheels 18x11 rear 18x9.5 front Cant think of anything else now, will add parts as I remember. Edited March 15, 2009 by adi2009 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest argy911 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 the most important thing for a rebuild is conrods + pistons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adi2009 Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 (edited) I m leaving the brakes & suspension till the last. I need to still choose a set of coilovers and I m waiting for my iForged Daytonas As soon as I opened the head I noticed that there was casting flash in areas of the head and some machining burr in and around the combustion chamber area. I m not sure if this is the way all engine components are supplied but certainly not too impressed with the finish Edited March 15, 2009 by adi2009 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adi2009 Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 the head after cleaning up all the leftover metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest argy911 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 head skim + ecu your using looks good to me;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 the most important thing for a rebuild is conrods + pistons For a T61 stock would be more than enough, why do you suggest otherwise ? I would have thought ARP bolts and maybe rods at most Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adi2009 Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 Forgot to add ARP head studs to the list. But they are going in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I agree with using ARP bolts. Stick them in as a matter of course when you clean the new shortblock, don't assume it's clean because it's new. Stock internals should be ok from what I've seen too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adi2009 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Valves have been lapped. HKS cams in and checked valve clearance, I need to order in some new shims now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adi2009 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 (edited) While fitting the PHR single valve springs with titanium retainers, the valve locks just dont seem to sit anywhere near as flush as they do on the stock retainers. I ve emailed PHR about this and they say that its OK, however, my engine builder is extremely hesitant saying that this just doest look right. I m not sure what to do now, if its ok to use stock retainers with these spring then I may do that. Anyone have any experience like this??? Edited March 16, 2009 by adi2009 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 If you tap the end of the valve with a rubber mallet and the valve locks don't come out, then that's about as good as they need to be really. In the normal course of operation they don't see anything like the kind of shock that the mallet would give... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adi2009 Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 If you tap the end of the valve with a rubber mallet and the valve locks don't come out, then that's about as good as they need to be really. In the normal course of operation they don't see anything like the kind of shock that the mallet would give... My engine builder did that, didnt come out. I m thinking of just ordering in a new set of retainers anyways just in case, as my builder is not too keen on the locks sticking out like that as for peace of mind I may go with the stock retainers. What are the advantages of using a titanium retainer anyways? other than weight, which is neglidgible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest murarie Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Nice, Should scare a few 911 owners. Also how much was the new Getrag? PM me if you are selling your old box. I am from Coimbatore. OT: I see a HPI Baja 5b under a table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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