DodgyRog Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 :(Looks like my crank pulley is about to fail. Did the Tipex test and 40 miles later Couldn't be worse timing, as I have just splashed out on a trip to Florida for our 10th aniversary, but at least i noticed it before it failed completely I GUESS:taped: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 :(Looks like my crank pulley is about to fail. Did the Tipex test and 40 miles later http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj152/DodgyRogSupra/crankpulley.jpg Couldn't be worse timing, as I have just splashed out on a trip to Florida for our 10th aniversary, but at least i noticed it before it failed completely I GUESS:taped: Very lucky, when mine went it took the whole engine with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Very lucky, when mine went it took the whole engine with it. Problem for me now is this is my daily driver, so have to get it sorted yesterday, but as you say at least I caught it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Very lucky, when mine went it took the whole engine with it. On a Supra? What happened? (I was under the impression that standard NA and TT engines were 'non contact', and would generally survive failure of the belt or pulleys) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-san Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 On a Supra? What happened? (I was under the impression that standard NA and TT engines were 'non contact', and would generally survive failure of the belt or pulleys) You're right, the engine is non-interference. However, when the rubber deteriorates, the outer part work its way loose as seen above. If it fails at high speed, it'll play pinball with everything else in the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 You're right, the engine is non-interference. However, when the rubber deteriorates, the outer part work its way loose as seen above. If it fails at high speed, it'll play pinball with everything else in the engine bay. Ahhh, I though he was talking about the innards.I can see how a pully spinning at several thousand rpm might be like setting to your engine bay with a circular saw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3LL Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 mine went the other week, thankfully i was just pulling into the garage at about 2mph when it spun off! cost me £330 for genuine toyota pully and aux belt inc labour at Japtech here in Hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 mine went the other week, thankfully i was just pulling into the garage at about 2mph when it spun off! cost me £330 for genuine toyota pully and aux belt inc labour at Japtech here in Hull. Had an estimate from Toyota Exeter for £350 inc vat. That is for 1 1/2 hours labour, crank pulley and bolt. I have contacted Paul Whiffin (he is checking stock tomorrow), on the web site the Crank Pulley is £161 inc vat and my local garage say they can do it for £60 ish labour. So I am getting the price down, just hoping Paul has stock now, as I will screwed without the car, as I drive 40 miles a day to work and their is no public transport at 5-30 am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3LL Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 look at the bright side though mate, you have caught it early and although its an awkward time for it to need doing with finances, travel etc.. at least you are gettin it done before it wipes out half the front end of your engine bay! It could have been loads worse!! TBH, mine ended up costin £1200 total but i got tons of work done while the car was in the garage, The guy who owned it before me has done nothing in the 13 months of ownership aside from knock the t1ts out of it. I replaced tires, brakes, disks, cambalt, aux belt, crank pully, a rear caliper, and gave it a full service. oh and they had to send a low loader round to my house to pick the thing up too! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Dan4 saved my old N/A from crank pully failure! When the part came in the weight of it made me understand the damage it could have done if it had come away. Lucky you noticed it mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Fortunately mine went and just span inside itself. ie the pulley stayed put not driving anything and the crank side just span away inside it. I replaced mine with a nearly new one myself for about £100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesC Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 What's the signs of a crank pulley going? Is it something everyone should check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I guess actually people should replace them as a service part after 10-12 years. Looking at mine I'd say have a looksee at it with a mirror and see if it looks like its splitting (the rubber that is). I work with elastomerics in bearings and to be honest they never "look" like they are on their way out until they actually fail, or almost fail. Like I say for my mind I'd change it out at 12 years max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 There is 'normally' a squeaky/screeching from it before it goes but not always.............if you can fit your arm down to it, it wouldn't hurt to tippex your own and then at least you can keep an eye on it as the Rog did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Best to ctach it now before it goes on a motorway, which in my case cut all power to the engine and the power steering stopped working - quite scary I can tell you! If money is tight some people might have a spare lying around and you can do it yourself. I was lucky enough that Jake drove all the way to my house and provided one for free, swapped it myself but it was a royal PITA to get the bolt off, but at least it didn't cost a penny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I have a tool I made for getting the pulley off now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I have a tool I made for getting the pulley off now. Yeah I have one of those too, it belongs to Jake Accidently put it in a storage unit last year, sorry Jake! In fact it didn't work anyway, ended up using the starter method with a breaker bar, the bolt was on extremely tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt k Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Yeah I have one of those too, it belongs to Jake Accidently put it in a storage unit last year, sorry Jake! In fact it didn't work anyway, ended up using the starter method with a breaker bar, the bolt was on extremely tight. Ditto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Going to try and change it myself, so any tips welcome;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 You have a manual so you 'may' be able to do this if you have a willing assistant. They put the car in gear and a foot hard on the brake pedal while you try and undo the crank pulley bolt. A 22mm impact socket will be needed, 1/2" drive should be ok. Then you'll need at least a 2ft breaker bar (more likely an extension pole to go over this as well) If it doesn't give with just the breaker bar then be careful with the extensions you don't want things slipping when you are 'giving it the big one'. Also if you are not removing the rad be particularly careful with everything to avoid fin damage or worse. Once the bolt is loose the pulley 'may' come off in your hands, but will most likely need some sort of persuading to come off. Normal gear puller definitely won't work with the rad in (not sure without)...............have you got any bolts to fit the inner part of the pulley? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 The cambelt was done about 10,000 miles ago, year and half or so. Am I right in thinking they would of removed the crank pulley to do this, if so it should be a bit looser or is this just wishful thinking on my part. I am guessing, from reading up on it here, that they used heat on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 They may have done, or clamped the outer ring while undoing the bolt and so overstressed the rubber metal bonds......... Sods law says thats wishful thinking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 They may have done, or clamped the outer ring while undoing the bolt and so overstressed the rubber metal bonds......... Sods law says thats wishful thinking! The way this week has gone, it will have been welded back on:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Yeah I have one of those too, it belongs to Jake Accidently put it in a storage unit last year, sorry Jake! In fact it didn't work anyway, ended up using the starter method with a breaker bar, the bolt was on extremely tight. I mean I have a tool for getting the pulley off. A puller if you will. I undid the bolt using the starter motor method, very effective 22mm? I thought it was 23mm? any ways socket with 3/4 inch drive and a decent T bar rested on the chassis engine mount leg. Disconnected the ignition unit and pulled the efi fuses and cranked it over. it actually went surprisingly easily. Getting the pulley off however was a pig. In the end I manufactured a tool out of 16mm x 6mm thick flat bar. You drill holes in the bar that line up with the holes in the pulley. Conveniently these holes are threaded. You get a bolt that threads into the pulley. You leave the socket you just used to undo the bolt on the wound out bolt head and put your tool across the socket, put the bolts through your drilled holes in the tool and thread them into the holes in the pulley. As the bolts tighten down the pulley should start to slide off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broomie Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 could someone please explain the tip-ex test to me as i have a squeeling coming from the belts on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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