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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Uk breaks or EBC turbo grooved disks and pads red stuff


j1mb0b1

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humm, I used to have EBC's on my impreza and they did a good job at stopping me at high speeds. I went round nurburgring without them fading aswell. What els could I fit for around £500 ?

 

This should tell you something about your driving commitment then ;) No offence :)

 

Honestly, I can't think of a worse pad. Stock, ungrooved, undrilled Toyota UK discs, stock UK calipers, Performance Friction pads (if there are any still to be had) and decent brake fluid will do the job superbly.

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I went round nurburgring without them fading aswell.

How many laps did you do and how hard where you driving? I only did 8 or so laps in the time I was there. I didn't drive flat out as I didn't feel I knew it well enough (8 laps is not enough time to remember all the corners on a 13 mile circuit!) Even so, my uk brake setup on my old car (with braided lines, dot5 fluid, porterfield pads etc) still faded. I certainly wouldn't want to do it on J-spec brakes with crappy boy racer pads.

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How many laps did you do and how hard where you driving? I only did 8 or so laps in the time I was there. I didn't drive flat out as I didn't feel I knew it well enough (8 laps is not enough time to remember all the corners on a 13 mile circuit!) Even so, my uk brake setup on my old car (with braided lines, dot5 fluid, porterfield pads etc) still faded. I certainly wouldn't want to do it on J-spec brakes with crappy boy racer pads.

 

 

I did about 10 laps and on last few laps I went I bit faster braking hard, and they never faded. If you stamped on brakes would pull your eyes out :) but that was on an impreza. But still good for boy racer disks and pads. But I can agree that they may not be has good on the supra, as it will be going faster and braking harder plus about 500KG extra to stop :) I will fit uk's if I can save the money. These jap brakes are a joke on the track, really don't no why they fitted as stock..

Edited by j1mb0b1 (see edit history)
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The Jap spec discs and calipers can be made to live on track, but you need expensive and very noisy exotic pads and exotic fluid, plus an acceptance that disc life will be severely reduced. Even on UK discs and calipers a car driven to its limits on track will get through discs like petrol.

 

I hope I won't be going on that many track days for that reason, Will cost a bomb with replacing parts like that all time. Just once every 2 months or so will do me and the one trip to nurburgring every year :)

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The Jap spec discs and calipers can be made to live on track, but you need expensive and very noisy exotic pads and exotic fluid, plus an acceptance that disc life will be severely reduced. Even on UK discs and calipers a car driven to its limits on track will get through discs like petrol.

 

:yeahthat: I ruined a set of 3G discs in a Year on my UK spec, and I hardly tracked it. (Although I do put down some of that to quality issues with 3G discs too)

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The Jap spec discs and calipers can be made to live on track, but you need expensive and very noisy exotic pads and exotic fluid, plus an acceptance that disc life will be severely reduced. Even on UK discs and calipers a car driven to its limits on track will get through discs like petrol.

 

I loved your original j-spec race pads. Noisy and dusty as hell but never showed any fade. Cracked both rear disks in the end but if anybody wants to stop their car hard then proper pads need to be bought.

 

JB

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I remember my old R33GTR on AP discs and 6 pot calipers every time I open a cupboard in the workshop. 2 dead sets of front bells and a stack of dead front discs about 2 feet high. Every wet track day saw 2 AP front discs in the bin, and so did 2 dry ones. Jane worked out that on average, over a year, with entry fees, fuel and consumables each track day was costing just over £1000. When it lunched its gearbox I fitted another and flogged it. Wonderful road car, but just ate things like brakes, fuel and transmissions on track. I did drive the wheels off the thing though :) The 2WD one I have now is a lot cheaper to run, as it's nothing like as heavy, the Zeus's are cheaper still, as they are made for the job in hand.

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I loved your original j-spec race pads. Noisy and dusty as hell but never showed any fade. Cracked both rear disks in the end but if anybody wants to stop their car hard then proper pads need to be bought.

 

JB

 

So you just had J-spec calipers and some good pads and it was fine? did you have stock disks or something exotic ? what pads did you have fitted ?? cheers J...

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Stock J-Spec calipers with the slider anti rattle rubbers removed, my race pads, Castrol SRF fluid, braided brake hoses, stock Toyota discs. Plastic tyre valve caps dripped onto the tarmac in the pitlane, but the brakes still functioned. Thank race series that insist on stock discs and calipers for pads that survive this sort of abuse. For sure BIGGER brakes are better, but I just ran my TT auto for fun. It did maybe 30 track days though :)

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So you just had J-spec calipers and some good pads and it was fine? did you have stock disks or something exotic ? what pads did you have fitted ?? cheers J...

 

stock disks with j-spec calipers all round. I just used good brake fluid and some Chris Wilson race spec pads. Sadly I think Chris is no longer able to get them, but his fast road pads would give you a pretty good solution unless you plan on using hte car at the track.

 

As Chris says, an upgrade to your brakes would be best. But if you cannot then some serious pads would help. Bear in mind the pads used to be around £240 for a set which soon adds up.

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